Clutch replacement 350 4 speed with Downey Bell housing

Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
26
Location
Defiance Mo
tlc762 is spot on, they do make 3 to 4 for brake lines with metric fittings already installed- - -easy deal.
Thanks for the input tlc762, I will go see if i can make it happen. I see a youtube video in my future.

Not sure what to do with the throw out bearing. Should I replace it regardless? I think its one of your creations Jim. Can I separate this?

I am going to try to avoid saying one more thing but one more thing, I got the transfer case separated from the tranny by about 8th of an inch or a little more. I can't get it off all the way. I am being somewhat gentle but any recommendations? I dont think the bolt on the end of the out put shaft comes off. I can take a pic to show what i am talking about if needed.

TO bearing 2.jpg


TO bearing.jpg
 
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
26
Location
Defiance Mo
My company (Downey Off Road Mfg.) was in business from 1970 to 2009, but with no more Downey, no more catalog or web sight. I do run an Ebay store, but I don't put the Chevota clutches in that store (too specialized), but I probably should. Just get ahold of me if you want one of my Chevota clutches.

You might consider running a whole new hard line from clutch master cylinder to clutch slave cylinder mounted on passengers side, you'd just have to be able to double flare the fittings (we use to make the hose for this when Downey was in business).

Yep, replacement of gaskets/seals straight forward, and design of new slave cylinder mounting bracket super simple.

I would very much be interested in purchasing the pressure plate and clutch set up you have. Let me know how I can go about contacting you to get all i need.

Thanks again.
 

DomSmith

SILVER Star
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
3,047
Location
San Diego, CA (Fire Mountain)
Do you have a Haynes manual or Toyota FSM? Either of those should have step by step instructions on transfer case removal.

Good resources to keep on the shelf. I’m sure there are online PDF versions but I prefer the good old hard bound copies
 
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
26
Location
Defiance Mo
Do you have a Haynes manual or Toyota FSM? Either of those should have step by step instructions on transfer case removal.

Good resources to keep on the shelf. I’m sure there are online PDF versions but I prefer the good old hard bound copies
Thanks for common sense approach. I do have the Haynes manual. Just looked at, read it, followed the directions and transfer case is separated.
 

BrianSanDiego

SILVER Star
 
Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
912
Location
San Diego
Hi Frankstein, FYI I just used one of Downeys clutch and pressure-plates, and it works perfectly. Also, I found a metal brake line with the correct metric ends at Pep-Boys, and used a cheap little tubing bender to make it work. Wish I had a part number for you on the brake line, but it's long gone.

edit: I did buy a spare line, I'll see if it's still around and I can get a part number off it for you.
 
Last edited:

BrianSanDiego

SILVER Star
 
Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
912
Location
San Diego
Getting there slowly, thanks to JIm from Downey. I'll add pics as I go along but in the rebuild stage.
Hey Frank, good timing. Yesterday I actually stumbled across the spare tubing I bought, to extend the clutch hose to the passenger side. The one shown here is PAJ-351, (51"), but I actually went with the 60" version which would be #PAJ-360, so it could follow the route of the brake line and go down to the slave cylinder. Bought mine at Pep Boys but looks like the same P/N is available elsewhere.

This worked going from my stock Aisin master and slave cylinders on my '73.

Hope it helps.
B.

LINE.jpg
 
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
26
Location
Defiance Mo
Thanks for the pic. Just got it today, should work well.

For anybody willing to share some knowledge? I am attaching a pic of my throw out bearing on the bushing and I can't get it flush. Banged the living hell out of it and I still got a <1/16th of inch to go till flush. Is this good enough?
T.O Bearing.jpg
 

BrianSanDiego

SILVER Star
 
Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
912
Location
San Diego
I don't know much, but the worst I could see happening is that you'll need to readjust the clutch, if it moves later.
 

pb4ugo

SILVER Star
 
Joined
May 8, 2006
Messages
1,517
Location
spay-lay-wi-theepi,
Thanks for the pic. Just got it today, should work well.

For anybody willing to share some knowledge? I am attaching a pic of my throw out bearing on the bushing and I can't get it flush. Banged the living hell out of it and I still got a <1/16th of inch to go till flush. Is this good enough?View attachment 2000791
Lets see a pic of the back side of the bearing and collar. If the back side of the bearing is seated against the stop on the hub, you can beat the hell out of it, and it isn't going to go on any more.
 
Joined
May 16, 2019
Messages
26
Location
Defiance Mo
Hey everybody, you still out there? I am almost done. i have cleaned everything and replaced all the seals a gaskets I could in the tranny and transfer case. i have a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder with line running to the passenger side. i am about to make a bracket out of some angle iron to attach the slave cylinder to the downy bell housing. I just need some guidance on the distance of the slave cylinder. i dont even know what I am asking actually. I take it while its at rest the throw out bearing needs to be pretty close to the pressure plate teeth. I am guessing less than an 1/8 of an inch maybe around a 1/16. I put in a Chavota clutch but I am not sure how far that rod will push the bearing into the pressure plate though and if there needs to be an adjustment because it has a shorter distance to travel with the shallow teeth. I was thinking about using the old bracket (slave cylinder) as a template for the angle iron because that distance worked on the old clutch. I just dont know enough to feel confident to put this tranny back in, I really dont want to take everything apart again. Can you provide some know how on what I need to do. Thanks everyone. I can provide pics if needed.
 

Downey

 
Joined
Jun 5, 2007
Messages
4,351
Location
Brea, Calif.
First, push the slave cylinder rod into the inside/inboard hole in the shift fork, then pull the shift fork so that the throw out bearing is all the way back by the transmission/away from the pressure plate fingers- - -now that is where you mount your slave cylinder into your home made angle iron slave cylinder mounting bracket. Then you should have slave cylinder push rod adjustment on the end of the push rod threads for making final adjustment with the throw out bearing just off the pressure plate fingers.
 
Top Bottom