Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters

[DieselFJ]

I just want to add to this thread, I finally got around to repairing my wiring including the Amp gauge wiring. I used the information found in this thread on how to get the 50Amp gauge working on page 15/16 roughly. I used the 18" of fuseable link wire, replaced my fuses and wiring due to corrosion using these clamshell fuse holders Electric Scooter Fuse Holders - ElectricScooterParts.com. Replaced all connection points with new. It now functions as it should.

Scott

 

[kcow]

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try. With my electrical and mechanical knowledge it will either work or we will be toasting marshmallows on a big bonfire !!

 

[cuencanolenny]

I did a similar thing when preparing the '70 FJ40 for sale. In hindsight I should have left the American Autowire harness in it and just ordered another kit for the '79, there are enough differences that it made for maybe not quite as install on both rigs as it was on the '70.

 

[Coolerman]

I just want to add to this thread, I finally got around to repairing my wiring including the Amp gauge wiring. I used the information found in this thread on how to get the 50Amp gauge working on page 15/16 roughly. I used the 18" of fuseable link wire, replaced my fuses and wiring due to corrosion using these clamshell fuse holders Electric Scooter Fuse Holders - ElectricScooterParts.com. Replaced all connection points with new. It now functions as it should.

Scott

That is an interesting site. They have a 5 terminal, stud type junction block that could be used to replace the fender mounted junction block that Toyota used on the early to 1968 trucks. Junction Boxes - ElectricScooterParts.com It is YELLOW Bakelite but could easily be painted black to blend in a bit better.

 

[redmelon]

Hi gents, yet another question to the clusters. I have a 79´ BJ43 in 24V. The wiring got terribly abused by the previous owner so I am slowly going my way forward to get everything that was original working again. On my cluster the temp gauge and the oil pressure was dead. The temp sensor looked quite bad so i changed it and the gauge hand got from the minimal position to the "coldest" position.
The wire from the oil pressure sender was ripped off, so I connected it again but the gauge did not move at all. Actually it was so low that I had to take the cluster out and take off the front panel to see if the hand was not fallen off at all.. Is it normal that it drops completely out of sight?
I tried moving it with a screw driver to the side and it was giving a slightly cracking noise as if the spring inside was rusted.
Could that have been the case? I have no clue at all how long the both gauges were not working..I got my baby from a barn where it was sitting for about 10 years..

 

[bj40green]

The OIL gauge has no tab to prevent the needle going out of view.
You can check the OIL circuit per the FSM or go here: Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters
Scroll down to posting #7 and look at the pages 12-28 and 12-29.

Rudi

 

[redmelon]

Thanks a lot Rudi! I will have a check!
Mike

 

[redmelon]

Hi Rudi,

Could you please help reconfirm a suspicion i have?
I started checking based on your advice. Oil pressure still dead.
So i took the meter out.
The metal bar leading to the hand is bent and when i look at the wire in the middle its brown. The plastic behind it seems toasted.
Do you think that could be the reason its "dead"?

Thanks upfront for the help,

Mike

 

[bj40green]

Check the resistance of the gauge with your multi meter. Should read about 45 ohms.

Rudi

 

[redmelon]

Hi Rudi, so the resistance was around 25 Ohm for the Water Temp and abt 70 for the oil pressure. However as I saw in the manual you provided for the BJ Models it should be around 66. So that seems fine.
Will have to go and check all the cables again and the oil pressure sensor again. The water sensor is new so that should not be causing it.
Will keep you posted where the devil was hidden.
Thanks again for your help, Mike

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

What color paint you use for face bezel?

 

[DieselFJ]

What color paint you use for face bezel?

Shop Rust-Oleum Professional Stainless Steel Rust Preventative Spray Paint (Actual Net Contents: 14-oz) at Lowes.com
Shop Rust-Oleum High Performance Crystal Clear Rust Preventative Spray Paint (Actual Net Contents: 14-oz) at Lowes.com

So, in the picture, the center dash control surround and gauge cluster are painted with the Rust-Oleum, the tachometer and the glove box door are factory paint. Should give you a good idea of color.

Scott

 

[Tommy Shumpert]

Great! Thanks

 

[Grigo]

Sorry to hijack the post. I have a small issue with the temperature sender installed on our BJ40 '77 (24V). The previous owner replaced it with a 1k sender which doesn't work. We've tried several other senders that are supposed to be compatible with the part mentioned in the overview with the clusters/gauges but no luck (as all of them are also in the 1kohm range). Did any of you manage to find/replace a sender compatible with the 3rd gen (European market) gauge (25ohm)?

 

[Erwin]

Fixing 7 V regulator

This thread has helped me when I have refurbished my cluster, so I would like to provide a few tips. I have a BJ40, 24 V 1976, but the following will apply to 12 V also.

In my cluster the fuel and temp gauge did not work at all. When connecting a 3W test bulb it just flashed sporadic, so I suspected the 7V voltage reg in the fuel gauge to be bad. Took out the gauge and connected it to 12 V on the bench (no serial resistor when out of the cluster), and connected a 40 Ohm resistor to the sender input. This is better than the bulb, as with 40 Ohm input the gauge should read half tank.

The needle barely moved. I took a 600 sanding paper and grinded the contacts in the regulator. This had the effect that it started to spark between the contacts. Not good. I took 800 paper, grinded a bit more, sprayed with electric cleaner and compressed air, and voila, the needle moved. Then adjusted the screw until reading was half tank. Then a drop of paint to fix the screw.

Electronic regulator

If I couldn’t fix the regulator I had this backup plan to build a new with a few electronic components. It will work on both 12 and 24 V systems.

It consist of a linear regulator, TS7808 (or similar) with steady 8 V output when input 12 – 35 V. To reduce to 7,3 V the diode D1 is in series. D1 is any standard diode like 1N4001, 1N4002, 1N4003 etc.
(Observe ring on diode. That shall be in the direction of the arrow.). Add a few capacitors for stability. Values not important. Arrangement can be fixed on backside of cluster (where serial resistor is on 24 V systems). If 24 V, remove serial resistor.

Parts can be ordered at any electronics supplier and will cost less than 2$. I use Distrelec, but thats in Europe.

ITO - 220 is the housing of the regulator. So it is actually the pin numbering of the TS7808
The backside if the regulator is connected to ground so be careful where to fix it. Fixing to the cluster would be ideal as that will then help cooling the device.
If anybody builds this, please add picture.

 

[Erwin]

Oil pressure gauge toasted
My gauge is toasted, the heating wire is severly burnt. It is impossible to get a new gauge. Has anybody tried to rewire the heating element?
I am wondering on the spec for the wire. Maybe it is possible to find out this by removing old wire and measure the lenght of it. Resistance wire (is that the name?) is specified in ohm/meter (or foot). Spec is then 44 ohm/ length for 12V, or 65 ohm/length for a 24 V gauge.

Currently I run with a 24 V sender and 12 V gauge. To get the total resistance of the gauge to 65 ohm I have added a serial resistor of 20 ohm between sender and gauge to prevent to high current in the system. This works, but the readings are 30% to low.

 

[wngrog]

1967 FJ45

Fuel Gauge.

It responds with 12v from Park to E with the tank full.

I bought a new old stock sending unit and installed it this weekend and now it goes to 1/3 tank.

I tried adjusting the float and that did nothing. 1/3 is as high as it goes.

Not going to kill me but I’m just wondering. I have been able to revive All the other wiring on this old unmolested Goat so this last gauge is kind of haunting me.

Tips appreciated.

 

[Hilux safari]

I'm looking to replace the cluster in my "67 FJ45v as none of the gages are working. The only model I find online is part #83100-60180. Will that work with the connections?

 

[bj40green]

The short answer is NO.
The long answer is; you have to do a lot of rewiring, you need a new TEMP sender, also a new FUEL sender but this one wil not fit in the fuel tank so here is a new problem. The Ammeter circuit is totally different. The only circuit that will work is the OIL gauge.
Why don't try to fix the old cluster problem? If all gauges not working you have a power problem.
I don't believe that all 3 circuits (OIL, FUEL and TEMP) are defective.
All the info you need is in here: Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters

Rudi

 

[Hilux safari]

Thanks Rudi. I will need a complete restoration of the cluster as it was painted over. None of the gages or speedo is working.