Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter bj40green
- Start date
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bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #522
You say, you have a 12/74 all stock, all gauges work except the FUEL gauge.
This tells me that you have a 3rd generation cluster with a barrel connector on the back of the cluster. So no sender wire direct to the FUEL gauge.
The FUEL gauge has a built-in Voltage Regulator which feeds the TEMP circuit AND the FUEL circuit.
If the TEMP gauge works OK, than there is voltage to the FUEL gauge and thus to the TEMP gauge.
Possible faults: FUEL gage, wire between barrel connector and sender, wrong or defective sender.
If you have a voltmeter; check for voltage on the FUEL sender wire on the sender side. there should be 6 or 7V. This voltage fluctuates so if you have a digital meter you'll see some rolling numbers, if you have an analog meter you'll see the needle sweep between 0 and 6V.
If you have voltage it means that the FUEL gauge is OK. If no voltage: replace the FUEL gauge.
If you don't have a voltmeter........
Disconnect the sender wire, turn ign key to on position, touch the sender wire to ground and keep one eye on the FUEL gauge.
If the needle starts moving, remove the sender wire from ground. DON'T WAIT TILL THE NEEDLE REACHES FULL SCALE!!
Rudi
Hey Rudi, yes, the ground is connected. The sender is new as well. I have a digital voltmeter, I'll check it out this weekend per your instructions and see what's up and get back to ya. I greatly appreciate the advice!
Great thread!
I had some trouble with my fuel sender(1970 mod 2nd gen), it showed about 3/4 instantly. I decided to try opening it. Inside it was a bit rusty and corrodet so I took the parts apart, cleaned and rubbed the points. That really help! After reassambly I had to adjust it by the little plasticwheel inside.
The fuel sender works with the same method as the oil sending unit.
PS you don't have to drill of the blade for the cable connector on the top if you are going to take it apart...
![DSCF5102[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/dscf5102-1-jpg.1459181/ "DSCF5102[1].JPG")
![DSCF5104[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/dscf5104-1-jpg.1459183/ "DSCF5104[1].JPG")
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![DSCF5103[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/dscf5103-1-jpg.1459182/ "DSCF5103[1].JPG")
I had some trouble with my fuel sender(1970 mod 2nd gen), it showed about 3/4 instantly. I decided to try opening it. Inside it was a bit rusty and corrodet so I took the parts apart, cleaned and rubbed the points. That really help! After reassambly I had to adjust it by the little plasticwheel inside.
The fuel sender works with the same method as the oil sending unit.
PS you don't have to drill of the blade for the cable connector on the top if you are going to take it apart...
Is this a 24v gauge cluster? The 4 gauges at the bottom are not right for my 5/80. The Speedometer is.
Thank you. I didn't catch the missing text plate. I have not seen the back. I am thinking of buying this to restore. It came out of a US FJ40 so it should be a 12v...correct?
I opened up my fuelgauge as a last chance to get it working, it looks so simple . Can you tell what can possibly be broken , Rudi or anyone else?
[QU
bj40green
Tssss, tssss
- Thread starter
- #532
Start with telling what the problem is.
Your Cruiser is pre '73 I assume?
What happens when you touch the sender wire to ground? Does the needle move?
Check the resistance with an ohm meter. Should be less than 100 ohm.
If you have a 6V (SIX Volt) source like an old charging power supply, hook it up and see if the needle moves.
Rudi
Your Cruiser is pre '73 I assume?
What happens when you touch the sender wire to ground? Does the needle move?
Check the resistance with an ohm meter. Should be less than 100 ohm.
If you have a 6V (SIX Volt) source like an old charging power supply, hook it up and see if the needle moves.
Rudi
Yes it is a 68, unfortunately i have no resistance at all. In my othe car i measure approx 48 ohms
Is it possible to rewire with some new wire if it is broken, ive tried to measure the resistance on each leadpoint with no luck so i guess broken wire is the case.
@Rudi I have voltage at the sender wire, it rolls between 5 and 9v. In trying the ground the sender wire to make the gauge move, I found it did not. I reassembled and turned the truck on. The gauge went to half tank as it usually does. But.... When I tapped the glass over the top of the gauge, it moved up to 3/4, which is about the amount of fuel that's in there now. So, I Imagine since the sender is new, the gage is getting voltage, all the other gauges work fine and the fuel gauge is loosening up when it gets a few taps on the glass, that the gauge is the problem?
Sorry for going back years in the thread, but I have the same issue with the speed sensor in my '77 BJ40 from the Japanese market. Could I simply disconnect the buzzer by cutting the wire from the sensor to the prong? My cuts in around 105km/h.
Hi Rudi. Just took the time to read this posting on your instrument clusters. Wow you really know your stuff and have presented it magnificently. So glad that I made contact with you. You have really helped me with figuring out my red "BITZA". I will be sure to refer to your threads and postings before I try to fix or replace any parts.......
