Click of doom (1 Viewer)

[reznunt]

Help! My truck has a click sound that has slowly driven me insane for the past 6 months. I thought I could eventually figure it out but I was obviously wrong, so I'm now turning to the 100 series wizards here on mud for help. I've already searched and read every "click" thread twice.

Observations when it started about 6 months ago:

• Click sound from front driver side wheel area
• Click only sometimes present, and only when in motion at low speeds from 1MPH to about 30MPH... beyond that the click is inaudible
• Barely audible faint tick, infrequently sounding when turning and disappearing when straightening the wheels or a quick jerk of the steering wheel
• Click can be present in any climate (hot/cold/wet/dry)

Observations now:

• Has developed into a distinct clickclick...clickclick...clickclick... about 2 clicks/second at 10 MPH with a linear increase in frequency vs. velocity
• Click now sounds when driving in a straight line. Turning hard right exacerbates the click, turning hard left makes click disappear
• When braking in a straight line to a stop the frequency of clicks increase and are sporadic (think twisting bubble wrap)
• Click is present in any climate (hot/cold/wet/dry)

Steps taken to resolve the issue:

• New OEM axle, flange, snap ring (click went away for a few days and then came back)
• New OEM tie rod ends and alignment
• Checked Timken wheel bearings (24k mi), washers, nuts for damage or wear. All torqued to spec and no issues
• Retorqued wheel spacer
• Lubed spindle bushing/needle bearing (straight line click went away, click during turning right still present)
• Tightened steering stop jam nut
• Removed Hawk pads, installed OEM pads and new OEM shim kit, no change in click sound. Calipers are original, rotors are OEM and 41k mi old.
• Checked for other possible causes such as rocks and nails in the tread, wheel weights, center caps, dangling zip ties, plastic panels and clips
• Tried to locate source of click with stethoscope but couldn't replicate the click sound with the front end off the ground.

Things on my list to check/fix that may or may not be related:

• Repack bearings
• Lightly apply grease to wheel spacer mating surfaces
• Replace steering rack (seeping from the top at the input shaft seal)
• Lower ball joint (no play, but boot has been broken for a couple years)
• Put it on 4 jack stands, remove front wheels, put in drive and turn steering wheel to try and produce the click to locate source
• Swap front wheels to completely eliminate wheels/tires as a possible source

Mods that may or may not be related:

• TC upper arms
• Ironman FCP's
• 1" wheel spacer
• Aftermarket wheels
• 35" tires

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated! I'm considering selling this thing because of a stupid click lol. A brand new used click-free 200 sounds so good to me right now.

 

[TheForger]

My advice would be to buy or find someone with a wireless mechanics stethoscope like the Steelman ChassisEAR. Based on your diagnosis and attempts at resolving the issue, it seems like you've ruled out a lot of the typical probable causes not leaving you with a whole lot to work with. That mechanics stethoscope will at least let you figure out the general area within the wheel well where the noise is originating.

 

[nukegoat]

ABS tone rings might have something in them

 

[Drunken Ira Hayes]

I assume the Total Chaos arms are a uniball design? If so, inspect the spherical bearings in the arms, the slugs the bolts for said bearings ride in, snap rings, and the spindles the arms bolt to. I’ve had similar symptoms in the past on other trucks. A couple of times, the bearings had either gone bad or were full of debris, I’ve also seen the slugs chip or abrade in a manner that causes noises, mainly when steering is applied. Once, the driver’s side spindle was cracked right where the uniball bolt/upper ball joint fastens (at the hole) but the crack wasn’t visible until I separated the upper arm from the spindle. All of these issues caused clicking noises, especially upon turning. Just a few possibilities I can think of, hope you get it figured out.

 

[reznunt]

My advice would be to buy or find someone with a wireless mechanics stethoscope like the Steelman ChassisEAR. Based on your diagnosis and attempts at resolving the issue, it seems like you've ruled out a lot of the typical probable causes not leaving you with a whole lot to work with. That mechanics stethoscope will at least let you figure out the general area within the wheel well where the noise is originating.

I do have a stethoscope. I forgot to mention that at one point I got underneath and spun the wheel while poking around trying to locate the source. The problem I had was I couldn't replicate the click with the front end off the ground. I'll try again with the stethoscope though, since the first try was early on during the intermittent phase.

 

[reznunt]

ABS tone rings might have something in them

Thanks, I'll definitely check the ring and sensor again when I go to repack the bearings.

 

[reznunt]

I assume the Total Chaos arms are a uniball design? If so, inspect the spherical bearings in the arms, the slugs the bolts for said bearings ride in, snap rings, and the spindles the arms bolt to. I’ve had similar symptoms in the past on other trucks. A couple of times, the bearings had either gone bad or were full of debris, I’ve also seen the slugs chip or abrade in a manner that causes noises, mainly when steering is applied. Once, the driver’s side spindle was cracked right where the uniball bolt/upper ball joint fastens (at the hole) but the crack wasn’t visible until I separated the upper arm from the spindle. All of these issues caused clicking noises, especially upon turning. Just a few possibilities I can think of, hope you get it figured out.

I haven't looked there yet but I'll try anything. I'll check the spacers, bearing, and spindle. Thanks

 

[I Lean]

I do have a stethoscope. I forgot to mention that at one point I got underneath and spun the wheel while poking around trying to locate the source. The problem I had was I couldn't replicate the click with the front end off the ground. I'll try again with the stethoscope though, since the first try was early on during the intermittent phase.

That's where the Chassis Ears @TheForger mentioned would help. They're little microphones you place on different components under the vehicle, so you can listen while driving.

 

[saudi]

Help! My truck has a click sound that has slowly driven me insane for the past 6 months. I thought I could eventually figure it out but I was obviously wrong, so I'm now turning to the 100 series wizards here on mud for help. I've already searched and read every "click" thread twice.

Observations when it started about 6 months ago:

• Click sound from front driver side wheel area
• Click only sometimes present, and only when in motion at low speeds from 1MPH to about 30MPH... beyond that the click is inaudible
• Barely audible faint tick, infrequently sounding when turning and disappearing when straightening the wheels or a quick jerk of the steering wheel
• Click can be present in any climate (hot/cold/wet/dry)

Observations now:

• Has developed into a distinct clickclick...clickclick...clickclick... about 2 clicks/second at 10 MPH with a linear increase in frequency vs. velocity
• Click now sounds when driving in a straight line. Turning hard right exacerbates the click, turning hard left makes click disappear
• When braking in a straight line to a stop the frequency of clicks increase and are sporadic (think twisting bubble wrap)
• Click is present in any climate (hot/cold/wet/dry)

Steps taken to resolve the issue:

• New OEM axle, flange, snap ring (click went away for a few days and then came back)
• New OEM tie rod ends and alignment
• Checked Timken wheel bearings (24k mi), washers, nuts for damage or wear. All torqued to spec and no issues
• Retorqued wheel spacer
• Tightened steering stop jam nut
• Removed Hawk pads, installed OEM pads and new OEM shim kit, no change in click sound. Calipers are original, rotors are OEM and 41k mi old.
• Checked for other possible causes such as rocks and nails in the tread, wheel weights, center caps, dangling zip ties, plastic panels and clips
• Tried to locate source of click with stethoscope but couldn't replicate the click sound with the front end off the ground.

Things on my list to check/fix that may or may not be related:

• Lube spindle bushings (last done 24k mi when wheel bearings were replaced)
• Repack bearings
• Replace steering rack (seeping from the top at the input shaft seal)
• Lower ball joint (no play, but boot has been broken for a couple years)
• Put it on 4 jack stands, remove front wheels, put in drive and turn steering wheel to try and produce the click to locate source
• Swap front wheels to completely eliminate wheels/tires as a possible source

Mods that may or may not be related:

• TC upper arms
• Ironman FCP's
• 1" wheel spacer
• Aftermarket wheels
• 35" tires

Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated! I'm considering selling this thing because of a stupid click lol. A brand new used click-free 200 sounds so good to me right now.

this may sound stupid ,but do you have spacers as they can click if not greased on surfaces when fitting you might also try it with the wheel itself .

 

[OwnerCS]

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My advice would be to buy or find someone with a wireless mechanics stethoscope like the Steelman ChassisEAR. Based on your diagnosis and attempts at resolving the issue, it seems like you've ruled out a lot of the typical probable causes not leaving you with a whole lot to work with. That mechanics stethoscope will at least let you figure out the general area within the wheel well where the noise is originating.

I do have a stethoscope. I forgot to mention that at one point I got underneath and spun the wheel while poking around trying to locate the source. The problem I had was I couldn't replicate the click with the front end off the ground. I'll try again with the stethoscope though, since the first try was early on during the intermittent phase.

That's where the Chassis Ears @TheForger mentioned would help. They're little microphones you place on different components under the vehicle, so you can listen while driving.

I had a creaking noise in one of my cars that I could not figure out. I bought one of these cheap Steelman Chassis Ears sets and found the issue. I spent a lot of money changing parts before I bought this tool.

National Tool Warehouse - Automotive Tool Store - NationalToolWarehouse.com

National Tool Warehouse supplies automotive tools to a wide range of customers including professional mechanics, hobbyists, and shade tree mechanics.

www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com

 

[half k cruiser]

The fact that it stopped for a few days after you replaced the axle and flange sounds like a big clue. Hopefully you didn't get a bad CV.

 

[2001LC]

The sound you describe, is typical of a CV joint of front drive shaft (FDS) going bad (in a stock rig).

It can also be a bent dust shield or dust cover of FDS. Although they make more of a scarping sound. These, especially the outer FDS dust shield, gets bent very easy. I spent 30 minutes yesterday straightening a new FDS which the dust shield was bent in shipping (very common). These are also bent if FDS allowed to rest on LCA while knuckle is off rig (also very common). If axle needle bearing shot, it may also allow even a straight dust cover to rub on knuckle and it too may sound "click" or scraping.

This inner dust cover is not typically bent.

Additionally, sometimes the inner snap ring that retains FDS in differential, is not seated properly. The FDS then moves in and out of differential more than designed limits. In turns, it may pull FDS out of diff. Some have reported a click from this. I always replace these snap rings when FDS removed and install with open end down.

You said wheel bearings "torqued to spec". I'll assume you mean preload set. If torqued "to spec" which adjusting nut spec of 57in-lbf (inch) is just starting point, would be way to loose. With lifted rig, wheel spaces , AM UCA, big tires. They need preload set to upper limits of ~15LB of pull, and reset more often than 30K miles in a pure stock rigs PM schedule.

If wheel bearing loose. Wheel hub can cock to side in turns. This in turn can cause rubbing on dust cover, brake dust shield or rotors.

I've more ideas but out of time this morning. I'll check back later

 

[reznunt]

That's where the Chassis Ears @TheForger mentioned would help. They're little microphones you place on different components under the vehicle, so you can listen while driving.

I had a creaking noise in one of my cars that I could not figure out. I bought one of these cheap Steelman Chassis Ears sets and found the issue. I spent a lot of money changing parts before I bought this tool.

National Tool Warehouse - Automotive Tool Store - NationalToolWarehouse.com

National Tool Warehouse supplies automotive tools to a wide range of customers including professional mechanics, hobbyists, and shade tree mechanics.

www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com

View attachment 2300417

I guess I'm old school or deprived because I didn't even know this tech existed lol. Awesome!

Ordered. It'll be here in a week.

 

[reznunt]

this may sound stupid ,but do you have spacers as they can click if not greased on surfaces when fitting you might also try it with the wheel itself .

Yes I do. I'm not sure how they could click since they're lug centric spacers torqued down. I'll give it a shot though, thanks.

 

[reznunt]

The fact that it stopped for a few days after you replaced the axle and flange sounds like a big clue. Hopefully you didn't get a bad CV.

That was my first guess even though it might have been a long shot. What made me rule it out was that the click sound that came back was identical to what it was with the old axle in there.

I have til the end of the year to warranty the axle if it is bad. Once I exhaust the easier steps on my list, I'll swap in the other brand new in box OEM axle I have that's supposed to be for the passenger side.

 

[reznunt]

The sound you describe, is typical of a CV joint of front drive shaft (FDS) going bad (in a stock rig).

It can also be a bent dust shield or dust cover of FDS. Although they make more of a scarping sound. These, especially the outer FDS dust shield, gets bent very easy. I spent 30 minutes yesterday straightening a new FDS which the dust shield was bent in shipping (very common). These are also bent if FDS allowed to rest on LCA while knuckle is off rig (also very common). If axle needle bearing shot, it may also allow even a straight dust cover to rub on knuckle and it too may sound "click" or scraping.
View attachment 2300502
This inner dust cover is not typically bent.
View attachment 2300507
Additionally, sometimes the inner snap ring that retains FDS in differential, is not seated properly. The FDS then moves in and out of differential more than designed limits. In turns, it may pull FDS out of diff. Some have reported a click from this. I always replace these snap rings when FDS removed and install with open end down.
View attachment 2300513

You said wheel bearings "torqued to spec". I'll assume you mean preload set. If torqued "to spec" which adjusting nut spec of 57in-lbf (inch) is just starting point, would be way to loose. With lifted rig, wheel spaces , AM UCA, big tires. They need preload set to upper limits of ~15LB of pull, and reset more often than 30K miles in a pure stock rigs PM schedule.

If wheel bearing loose. Wheel hub can cock to side in turns. This in turn can cause rubbing on dust cover, brake dust shield or rotors.

I've more ideas but out of time this morning. I'll check back later

Thanks for the reply. I just greased the spindle bushing/needle bearing this morning and I removed the caliper and re-checked the breakaway load while I was in there. It is still at 12 lb on the fish scale which is where I set it (pulling forward from the top stud). I will verify the dust shield is not bent but I'm pretty sure it's straight all the way around since I just wiped it down after pulling/reseating the axle to get the snap ring on. I have a full set of snap ring thicknesses, and the gap of snap ring that's in there is still within spec according to the FSM. I will try to install the next size up but IIRC it wouldn't fit in there.

Observations after greasing the spindle:

• Click sound is gone in a straight line
• Click is present when turning right
• Click frequency is now 1 click/sec at 5-10MPH in a right turn

I have no doubt the click will eventually return to what it was yesterday, clicking double time in a straight line and worse/faster in a turn or under braking. Seems every time I fiddle with the axle/nut/bearing area the click decreases. This right here should be a big clue but I'm too dense to figure it out.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the reply. I just greased the spindle bushing/needle bearing this morning and I removed the caliper and re-checked the breakaway load while I was in there. It is still at 12 lb on the fish scale which is where I set it (pulling forward from the top stud). I will verify the dust shield is not bent but I'm pretty sure it's straight all the way around since I just wiped it down after pulling/reseating the axle to get the snap ring on. I have a full set of snap ring thicknesses, and the gap of snap ring that's in there is still within spec according to the FSM. I will try to install the next size up but IIRC it wouldn't fit in there.

Observations after greasing the spindle:

• Click sound is gone in a straight line
• Click is present when turning right
• Click frequency is now 1 click/sec at 5-10MPH in a right turn

I have no doubt the click will eventually return to what it was yesterday, clicking double time in a straight line and worse/faster in a turn or under braking. Seems every time I fiddle with the axle/nut/bearing area the click decreases. This right here should be a big clue but I'm too dense to figure it out.

***EDIT***

Damn, I just realized I didn't remove the passenger wheel/tire when I just checked the breakaway load. Seems like that would make a difference. If so, it would be a lot less than 12 lb which would lead me to believe my bearings are possibly bad since I just set the reset the torque/breakaway load to 12lb about 2-3k mi ago during new axle install. Will recheck tonight.

I find breakaway preload drops to ~7LB in ~2K miles after setting at ~12.5LB. But if you set at 12lb within last 30K miles, you should be good.

The snap ring that I was speaking of, is inner one. The one pictured above, that hold FDS in differential.

Hub flange snap ring factory 2.2mm size, I never use during wheel bearing service. I always have to go up in sizes, to a 2.4 or 2.6mm, once I used the max size 2.8mm. Even with a low mile rig at 30K miles first service, I go up to a 2.4mm. But the snap ring gap to wide (greater than 0.20mm, does not make sound you describe. It cause damage longer term, to snap ring, axle and hub flange.

Right turn and rotation click, sure sounds like CV going bad.

If you done a lift, even with a diff drop kit. The old FDS CV do not like it so they often go bad. Lifted without diff drop, CV can go bad fast.

 

[reznunt]

I find breakaway preload drops to ~7LB in ~2K miles after setting at ~12.5LB. But if you set at 12lb within last 30K miles, you should be good.

The snap ring that I was speaking of, is inner one. The one pictured above, that hold FDS in differential.

Hub flange snap ring factory 2.2mm size, I never use during wheel bearing service. I always have to go up in sizes, to a 2.4 or 2.6mm, once I used the max size 2.8mm. Even with a low mile rig at 30K miles first service, I go up to a 2.4mm. But the snap ring gap to wide (greater than 0.20mm, does not make sound you describe. It cause damage longer term, to snap ring, axle and hub flange.

Right turn and rotation click, sure sounds like CV going bad.

If you done a lift, even with a diff drop kit. The old FDS CV do not like it so they often go bad. Lifted without diff drop, CV can go bad fast.

Yes, the inner snap ring was face down during installation. Yes, I have a diff drop.

Things I just tried:

• Applied grease to spacer mating surfaces
• Checked dust shield for bends
• Increased preload to 14lb breakaway force
• Changed snap ring to next size up (90520-31008 to 90520-31007)

I checked my snap ring this morning (after greasing spindle bushing) and it was at .004”. I checked again just now after driving and it was at .009", just out of spec. I went up one size and I was able to fully seat it. It won't budge. I guess I wasn't able to lever out the axle enough with all the new grease behind it.

Test drove it and I'm click free so far. I tried hard right uturns and braking during turning right and no clicks. I'll put some miles on it and report back. So it was either the snap ring gap too wide or bearing preload too loose (torqued axle nut to 80 lb-ft, went from 12 to 14 lb breakaway force). Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[ccasey]

If you want to see what happened when (my) click click turned to a horrible grinding sound,

Short version (described by others, above) was the snap ring came off allowing the axle to slip inwards and grind on the flange. In the below collage, the old flange is on the right and the new flange is on the left

 

[reznunt]

If you want to see what happened when (my) click click turned to a horrible grinding sound,

Short version (described by others, above) was the snap ring came off allowing the axle to slip inwards and grind on the flange. In the below collage, the old flange is on the right and the new flange is on the left View attachment 2327212View attachment 2327214

Thanks for the info. I already have a brand new CV and flange installed.

Good news is I'm still click-free. I am pretty sure what did the trick was cleaning some of the fresh seeping grease (from the spindle bushing regrease) out of the back of the hub to get my axle fully seated and then stepping up to the next size snap ring. The difference a few thousandths makes...