Click but no start! (1 Viewer)

[93yotasr5]

I just went to start my 80 and it would not start. The starter is only a couple months old, battery fully charged. Clunk heard from solenoid, all lights and accessories working fine. Wondering if my wires are bad/corroded inside. Had the issue before the starter swap and I thought it fixed the issue, but it’s back.
Does anyone have the part number for the battery to starter cable?

 

[alia176]

I've had the dreaded "click click click" for years, even though I have rebuilt it with OEM parts, replaced the ign switch and of course replaced the batteries. After I did the relay mod, not a single click afterwards.

Search for the click threads and one of them has a great outline of what needs to be done and it's rather easy.

 

[Halfpint]

I've had the dreaded "click click click" for years, even though I have rebuilt it with OEM parts, replaced the ign switch and of course replaced the batteries. After I did the relay mod, not a single click afterwards.

Search for the click threads and one of them has a great outline of what needs to be done and it's rather easy.

Solenoid mod on order... hoping this helps

 

[Mjones]

Solenoid mod on order... hoping this helps

Do you have a part number for that? I’m in the same boat and starting to digging into this

 

[rebelcruiser]

I installed a Painless Performance Hot Shot kit in my 80 and have not had an issue with starting since then. I have added one to my pickup also.

Painless Wiring - https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30202 I actually used the 30201 kit with the bump switch

 

[Baja Mickey]

I was in this horror movie
Changed every thing, changed the starter 2 time with remanufactured units the second one in a mill spec vendor changed the fusible link and the black box changed battery no go very 10 starts it failed in the most impropriety time, the last time on the way to my friends the law required the last 10 mils off road should be done before nightfall but until i made it start it was night and when arivied to camp my pig frends eat all the meat and drank almost all the bear
my electrician cut his veins and commit suicide and we did everything the switch in the P position of gear handle.
some times it made a tick and sometimes there was no noise at all
What confused us was that some time taping on the starter with a wrench made it start this is a symptom of dead malfunction starter
So I was planing to Order New OEM starter from Japan

but before that there a fourm with a bunch of crazy crazy OCD people maybe you now it IH8MUD? used search button and there was the solution it saved me 600$ and all i neded was 70$ part from Toyota and work to replace

The starting circuit in 80 different from modern car the key switch as to handle high current.

3 months no problem

View attachment 1840680

Dino, Did your switch assembly change out continue to cure the no crank/no start issue? Thanks

 

[Hornd]

Smack the Starter with a Mallet or something Soft and Heavy and let us know.

I had same issue with DENSO Reman from RockAuto.
Have not dug into it - when a Smack Fixes it.

Was Embarrassing every time I got gas and it would not start.
I tried a Noco, Dual Battery, Jump, you Name it.
Especially Embarrassing at Costco Gas when there are 100 Ppl in Line behind you.

**Replacing Starter is Perfect for a Left Handed Person.

 

[NM Frontier]

I’m chasing down a similar situation, all things lead to the solinoid so I swapped it with a spare denso starter I had, still the same, click but no engagement of the starter though now it not intermittent. Only thing that has allowed it to start now and then is after I have the battery disconnected for a few. Maybe that will key others into pointing me in the right direction.

 

[deltapine1]

Shift Indicator Light & Reverse Light issue

I will start by saying I have searched the 80 Tech Forum and read through five complete threads and partially through several other threads. All dealing primarily with a intermittent "No Start" issue which I do not have. Most deal with the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) and or it's connector (p/n...

forum.ih8mud.com

Just went through a similar issue. When the 80 was hot the Park/Neutral Safety Switch was loose and would sporadically move out of position and not permit the starter to engage.

 

[Baja Mickey]

Shift Indicator Light & Reverse Light issue

I will start by saying I have searched the 80 Tech Forum and read through five complete threads and partially through several other threads. All dealing primarily with a intermittent "No Start" issue which I do not have. Most deal with the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) and or it's connector (p/n...

forum.ih8mud.com

Just went through a similar issue. When the 80 was hot the Park/Neutral Safety Switch was loose and would sporadically move out of position and not permit the starter to engage.

Great Info - how did you fix this? Pull the P/N SS and clean?

 

[Baja Mickey]

Shift Indicator Light & Reverse Light issue

I will start by saying I have searched the 80 Tech Forum and read through five complete threads and partially through several other threads. All dealing primarily with a intermittent "No Start" issue which I do not have. Most deal with the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) and or it's connector (p/n...

forum.ih8mud.com

Just went through a similar issue. When the 80 was hot the Park/Neutral Safety Switch was loose and would sporadically move out of position and not permit the starter to engage.

Please disregard my prior Q - I just read your associated post. Next on the list...... Bushings and linkage adjustment.

 

[CJF]

Only thing that has allowed it to start now and then is after I have the battery disconnected for a few.

You've tried jumping it?

 

[Baja Mickey]

Many times and have replaced the battery 2 times - not a battery charge issue. I believe it is either one or a combination of 1. not enough voltage getting to the starter (deteriorated wiring between battery and + on starter); 2. the starter solenoid intermittently going bad; 3. the ignition switch is going bad; 4. the neutral safety switch out of alignment and/or muckus on the contacts and finally; 5. the shifter linkage bushings have so deteriorated that the no crank issue happens when the vehicle gets hot as the NSS fails to align up. Good questions though and please feel free to throw in anything I might have missed above. I feel like I'm chasing a ghost on this. The current plan is: to voltmeter the starter positive connection for 12v and replace bad cables and wiring if located, replace the ignition switch, change out the bushings on the shifter linkage, and attach a push button bump starter as a fail-safe workaround. If that doesn't resolve the issue, I will be replacing the starter (again), and then tear into the NSS and redo the grease and contacts or replace the unit. However, I'm confident that I have certainly missed at least one other alternative as to a cause and would appreciate any input from the forum. Thanks.

 

[deltapine1]

There is a noted wire terminal issue on the Neutral Safety Switch plug as well. I ordered the wire terminal leads and plug from Toyota in case I found an issue but mine did not have a wire/plug issue.

 

[Baja Mickey]

There is a noted wire terminal issue on the Neutral Safety Switch plug as well. I ordered the wire terminal leads and plug from Toyota in case I found an issue but mine did not have a wire/plug issue.

Yes - I looked and didn't find one on mine either. Thanks for the heads up, though.

 

[jonheld]

Yes - I looked and didn't find one on mine either. Thanks for the heads up, though.

Are you getting a solid "thunk" from the starter when you go to start it or are you getting no sound at all?

 

[Baja Mickey]

Are you getting a solid "thunk" from the starter when you go to start it or are you getting no sound at all?

Click, but don't recall what I would consider a solid thunk

 

[NM Frontier]

Ok so for my situation I believe I have solved it for now. After going through everything with the volt meter and everything checking out ok for the 100th time yesterday last night I went back through a bunch of click threads. A common theme was connections. Over the years I had learned to always start with connections and go from there. I felt pretty good I had done that for my click no start.

But then I read a solved thread where the owner ended up changing his battery post clamps to military style terminals and it fixed his issue.

That got me thinking, I had said earlier that the one thing that seemed to make a difference for me was disconnecting the battery.

Now I already have the military style terminals, but today after work I took the terminals off, disconnected the leads and gave it a good once over. No notable issues, no corrosion or anything like that. The only thing I noticed was where negative lead attaches to the terminal was just slightly less tight then the one on the positive side. Put it all together nice and snug and fired right up.

Drove around did a lot of turning it on and off, started every time. So moral of the story for me is taking the time to really check those connections, all of them including the grounds is always the best place to start and worth the time before jumping to assumptions.

Hope that helps someone.