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Jul 19, 2010
Happened across this '76 Chinook truck recently. The plan is the put the camper on a Toyota 4wheel chassis. Have not found a truck yet but plan to remove, gut and build the Chinook interior to my liking while I'm on the hunt for a clean truck. So it begins....
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Got it gutted and detached ATTACH=full]1018338[/ATTACH]
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Here is some food for thought.

70 Series Chinook.jpg

70 Series

60 Series Chinook.jpg

60 Series

55 Series Chinook.jpg


These are very quick photochops just to get an idea of what they might look like. Note that I have modified the weheelbases to move the rear wheels in the proper position. I also have no idea if the scale of the two pictures is the same. I just adjusted to what I thought looked best.
Not sure what I am looking for yet. I know I don't want to convert a rig by chopping it up and dealing with inspection stuff. Most likely it will be a 3.4 Tacoma xtra cab with the wheel base lengthened a bit. I very much appreciate the ideas you have shown me.
She's off


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Can't wait to see your progress on this. I drive by a chinook that has been sitting in a guy's front yard for a long time and keep wanting to stop to see if I could pick it up cheap. I avoid stopping because I don't have the time for another project and don't want to tempt myself. I will live vicariously through your build!
Sweet project.

I've always wanted to put one of these on my T-100.
Thanks Adam. Down to the fiberglass:)


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Great to see anther Chinook build! Are you going to level out the floors? replace existing floor? If you want to wheel with it I recommend either replacing with solid ply and use metal supports or glassing the existing floor (underneath) after removing the metal sheet. It didn't look like my floor with the foam inner layer would stand up to repetitive vibration.... Good Luck! looking forward to seeing your progress.
Thanks. I plan to build a full steel frame for the camper to mount to. I have seen the foam floors in these but mine appears to be solid 1" ply in good condition so I'm not touching it. I will reinforce the fiberglass to the metal internal frame a bit to keep the vibration down. Also plan to trim the bottom faring off to the deck floor for clearance to mount mental boxes. That is down the line. Working on some LED interior lighting and then new rigid insulation. I will looking for your chinook build as well:)
Your lucky if you have solid floors.... may want to check just to be sure. If you have a stout metal frame that will also be a huge benefit and may be strong enough also. I used 1.25 trailer decking and it's nice to be able to anchor anything and not worry. Hope you move faster on yours!
Well dumb me.... My floor was indeed the hollow core factory setup .although in pretty good shape and fairly flat I added a layer of 3/4 to have a fresh floor to start on .with a full coverage frame underneath I am hoping for solid foundation. Also silicone'd the interior metal frame to the fiberglass body. Should help with strength and vibration ATTACH=full]1026474[/ATTACH]
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If you do anymore bonding of wood or metal to fiberglass body, use something like 3M 5200 or something from Silka-Flex. These are adhesive sealers that are much better and stronger than silicone at bonding. Home Depot has 5200.

If you use 5200...Wear gloves! It does not come off anything it touches!
Well I used the good silicone2 on my project and quit a bit of it at that. Might not have the same qualities as the 3x as expensive 3m 5200 but it is good stuff and I use it on all kinds of projects and rarely have s problem. Took the clamps off this morning and it is night and day difference in rigidity. If it fails I will report back but not expecting that outcome. On to running wire and cutting rigid insulation for the walls.
Wired for 6 interior lights with mounting blocks recessed into the 1" rigid insulation


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