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CruisinFJ60 said:
Wheeling.

The only finished for good I know of is the day it gets sold or completely destroyed.

Ah yes! Well stated my friend!
Well... Hoping to be wheeling not this weekend, but the next!! :):):)
It'll be a day run up this lil dry river bed trail called bronco canyon. Its a nasty little trail.
First BIG full run will be BLOTCH at the end of April. Not a particularly hard run, but miles of desert roads in death valley. If there's a weakness... It'll be found there. If she survives that run relatively un scathed, I'll be good to go. Mechanically and electronically speaking.
I've got a LOT to do still for that.
Mostly gear and storage solutions, soft top doors and stuff.
 
kling-on said:
190 to 210 even with a/c on at 110 or 32 outside

Okay... That's good to hear!
I'm running around 190 which seems to be when the t stat opens as it holds steady there so far.
 
jetranger said:
Just skimmed through your thread for the first time! Amazing and inspiring... thank you! Keep it up

Ah, cool man!
Thanks for looking and posting up.
It's been a wild ride for sure, one that im glad is almost over (relatively speaking).
I'll never do it again, but I'm glad that I did it. Came out every bit as good as I had hoped it would. Im quite proud of this rig and my accomplishments with it.
 
Ah yes! Well stated my friend!
Well... Hoping to be wheeling not this weekend, but the next!! :):):)
It'll be a day run up this lil dry river bed trail called bronco canyon. Its a nasty little trail.
First BIG full run will be BLOTCH at the end of April. Not a particularly hard run, but miles of desert roads in death valley. If there's a weakness... It'll be found there. If she survives that run relatively un scathed, I'll be good to go. Mechanically and electronically speaking.
I've got a LOT to do still for that.
Mostly gear and storage solutions, soft top doors and stuff.
If you do Saline Valley all the way through, that will literally shake out any problems.
 
I have a big cooler on my 700R4. My gauge starts at 100. Now that Seattle is in the 40's I have not seen the gauge come off 100. Does your sender have a good ground? I don't recall where you had your sender located (mine is in a T at the tranny fluid outlet port). A friend put his inline with the hose to the cooler so it didn't have a ground and didn't work. As soon as he grounded the sender the gauge read fine.
 
srgould41 said:
I have a big cooler on my 700R4. My gauge starts at 100. Now that Seattle is in the 40's I have not seen the gauge come off 100. Does your sender have a good ground? I don't recall where you had your sender located (mine is in a T at the tranny fluid outlet port). A friend put his inline with the hose to the cooler so it didn't have a ground and didn't work. As soon as he grounded the sender the gauge read fine.

It's off the top port on the trans.
Now that I think of it... I wonder in I have the thing in the correct port???
 
The pressure/return ports differ between trans models. The 700 uses the bottom port to go to the cooler. Forgive me for forgetting what trans you have and with 185 pages of posts I don't want to look :p
 
chicago said:
Ah yes! Well stated my friend!
Well... Hoping to be wheeling not this weekend, but the next!! :):):)
It'll be a day run up this lil dry river bed trail called bronco canyon. Its a nasty little trail.
First BIG full run will be BLOTCH at the end of April. Not a particularly hard run, but miles of desert roads in death valley. If there's a weakness... It'll be found there. If she survives that run relatively un scathed, I'll be good to go. Mechanically and electronically speaking.
I've got a LOT to do still for that.
Mostly gear and storage solutions, soft top doors and stuff.

Nice! Still working on my new trac bar. Just moved a shock tab last week only to cut it off again cause the trac bar had to go there. Nit sure what I will do with it now, maybe mount it off the trac bar bracket or something. :Meh:

Shoulda just 4 linked it

Sent from my DROIDX using IH8MUD
 
srgould41 said:
The pressure/return ports differ between trans models. The 700 uses the bottom port to go to the cooler. Forgive me for forgetting what trans you have and with 185 pages of posts I don't want to look :p

It's the 4l60E. I'm really wondering if that is the issue now?!
Don't blame you for not wanting to read through this mess!! :)
 
I ended up ordering a new box under warranty from autozone. I checked at kragen, you have to buy the whole seal kit which is 50 bucks, so I went down to autozone and yelled at them for a while. Best they could do is warranty it, so... That's what's gonna happen. They can't get the seal kit and in wasn't about to fork out 50 bucks for ONE FUGGIN seal on a box that was essentially new.

Just kinda pissed about it cuz it's a PITA and i have to wait for it to come in now.
 
Yeah... Kinda!
My temp gauge is 150-400 deg, so... Im guessing it's just not getting up to temp to register?? Kinda good I think??? Then the HD trans cooler probably keeps it down even more.
Not much else to check, really. Guess I'll just wait and see what happens this coming run. I'd think crawling boulders should get the op temps up somewhat.

Thanks for taking the time to pay attention to that for me!!!

K

As an example, my transmission on my Ford in winter rarely goes over 155 without a load, that is according to my Edge programmer which I have found is quite accurate.

Coming back from Moab last week it was sitting at 140 in 23 degree weather at 6000' on a grade.
 
As an example, my transmission on my Ford in winter rarely goes over 155 without a load, that is according to my Edge programmer which I have found is quite accurate.

Coming back from Moab last week it was sitting at 140 in 23 degree weather at 6000' on a grade.

I bought a cooler for my F350 that came with a temp sensitive valve. When the temp was below 190 it would route the fluid back to the tranny. Once over that it would open and allow fluid go the cooler. It's important that tranny fluid gets up to operating temp.
 
warpdriv said:
I bought a cooler for my F350 that came with a temp sensitive valve. When the temp was below 190 it would route the fluid back to the tranny. Once over that it would open and allow fluid go the cooler. It's important that tranny fluid gets up to operating temp.

So the question then would be, what's normal operating temp, and why is it important to get the temps up?
One would think that the cooler the better?
 
Hahaha!!!!
Im a dumb ass!
I DO have the trans temp sensor into the RETURN line!!!!
Also in my research I found that any sustained temps over 200 is generally BAD and if the trans temps are too cold, you wont be able to lock up over drive.

Damn it!!!
 
Automatics will usually run at or slightly above engine coolant temp.

Putting the temp sender in either of the cooler lines will tell you precious little. What you really want/need to know is the temp IN THE TRANSMISSION, not in the cooler or lines.

Why do you think the later computer controlled transmissions utilize a temp sensor that's ALWAYS bolted to the valve body?! Because that's where you get the true trans temp. It's that simple. Your 4L60e has one of those sensors in it. And your transmission won't go into lockup mode ( a function of the torque converter ) unless it reaches a certain temp. This has nothing to do with overdrive. Don't get the two mixed up. The temp sensor will also trigger a check engine light and trouble code if the trans gets too hot.

The hottest areas of a transmission are the pump and the converter ( when nit in lockup mode ). The "supply" cooler line transports fluid from those areas tho the cooler. The fluid then travels thru the cooler and then dumps back in the transmission. Some of the fluid coming from the pump is diverted to the valve body which in turn then actuates lots of other things I won't bore you with.

Either way, the temp sender should be in the trans pan or the case itself.

Hth

Georg
 
Automatics will usually run at or slightly above engine coolant temp.

Putting the temp sender in either of the cooler lines will tell you precious little. What you really want/need to know is the temp IN THE TRANSMISSION, not in the cooler or lines.

Why do you think the later computer controlled transmissions utilize a temp sensor that's ALWAYS bolted to the valve body?! Because that's where you get the true trans temp. It's that simple. Your 4L60e has one of those sensors in it. And your transmission won't go into lockup mode ( a function of the torque converter ) unless it reaches a certain temp. This has nothing to do with overdrive. Don't get the two mixed up. The temp sensor will also trigger a check engine light and trouble code if the trans gets too hot.

The hottest areas of a transmission are the pump and the converter ( when nit in lockup mode ). The "supply" cooler line transports fluid from those areas tho the cooler. The fluid then travels thru the cooler and then dumps back in the transmission. Some of the fluid coming from the pump is diverted to the valve body which in turn then actuates lots of other things I won't bore you with.

Either way, the temp sender should be in the trans pan or the case itself.

Hth

Georg
Somewhat counter-intuitive, I would expect that the supply to the trans cooler would be the most telling temp.
 
orangefj45 said:
Automatics will usually run at or slightly above engine coolant temp.

Putting the temp sender in either of the cooler lines will tell you precious little. What you really want/need to know is the temp IN THE TRANSMISSION, not in the cooler or lines.

Why do you think the later computer controlled transmissions utilize a temp sensor that's ALWAYS bolted to the valve body?! Because that's where you get the true trans temp. It's that simple. Your 4L60e has one of those sensors in it. And your transmission won't go into lockup mode ( a function of the torque converter ) unless it reaches a certain temp. This has nothing to do with overdrive. Don't get the two mixed up. The temp sensor will also trigger a check engine light and trouble code if the trans gets too hot.

The hottest areas of a transmission are the pump and the converter ( when nit in lockup mode ). The "supply" cooler line transports fluid from those areas tho the cooler. The fluid then travels thru the cooler and then dumps back in the transmission. Some of the fluid coming from the pump is diverted to the valve body which in turn then actuates lots of other things I won't bore you with.

Either way, the temp sender should be in the trans pan or the case itself.

Hth

Georg

I get the trans pan position for the sensor, but off of the out flow line would be the next closest reading, right?
I'd really like to avoid dropping the pan at this point.
Thanks for the input!
 
The temp in the supply line can be up to 50 degs hotter than the fluid in the pan.


I'll make this really simple!


Pop quiz:


Where's the temp sender in any Toyota transmission?


I'll leave it at that.


Georg
 

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