On my next round of bumps I plan on making the rubber or poly mount to the spring plate and have a flat plate at the appropriate distance come down from the frame. Not sure if that make sense but the part coming down from the frame would be welded on instead of bolted. I think the thinner base (3/16" I think) I'm using is a culprit along with the toyota factory bolts I used for the frame holes. I've already sheared one of those off so perhaps some metric 10 or 12 grade would hold up better.
Builds Chicago builds a 40
- Thread starter chicago
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
On my next round of bumps I plan on making the rubber or poly mount to the spring plate and have a flat plate at the appropriate distance come down from the frame. Not sure if that make sense but the part coming down from the frame would be welded on instead of bolted. I think the thinner base (3/16" I think) I'm using is a culprit along with the toyota factory bolts I used for the frame holes. I've already sheared one of those off so perhaps some metric 10 or 12 grade would hold up better.
Funny if I were to start another project it would be a 1st gen 4runner with a mercedes diesel. Toyota's sure have a great line up of rigs just begging for mods.
- Thread starter
- #3,643
boots4 said:
Well... There are some who believe that a 40 is NOT a good base for a wheeler in the 40 section??? Some of the purists crack me up!
Your right though, pretty much any of the tacomas, 4 runners would be great to build.
I wouldn't swap the motor though in the years I'd be looking at.
The late 90's 4 runners had a really nice motor in them, so it would seem that if I were to snag one, all that would need to be done (assuming a clean rig) sas, low gears, lockers and armor... Done!
I was looking at that route before the 40, but I had the vortec, trans, diffs and lockers already that I'd have lost my ass on. The 40 was a great candidate for the components I had already provided I got it cheap enough (which I did)!
There are some compromises that I had to make.... Namely... Storage and sleep quarters. I'm gonna miss that. The 62 was perfect for that. I'm NOT gonna miss the size and weight though.
I thought you were from Chicago???? its cold and windy there.. Looks good, like the bump stops..
- Thread starter
- #3,645
RAYJON said:
FROM is the key word in that statement!!
Thanks man!
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
- Thread starter
- #3,647
Well....
Can't argue when you call a spade a spade!!
Can't argue when you call a spade a spade!!
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
I'm a member of the pansey club when it comes to cold.
RE laying on the concrete, grab a pad off one of the lawn chairs to lay on. It really helps.
Edit: cover it with a trash bag if you want to avoid the wrath of SWAMBO.
Something else that can help is the plastic carpet pad that is under the office desk chair. That layer of heavy plastic will insulate you from the cold concrete.
I have an old one that I keep with my tools that I use to lay on the gravel driveway. Much more comfortable than the rocks digging into your back when you're under your rig.
Don
- Thread starter
- #3,651
I dropped the steering column and pulled the gauge panel again to see if I could figure what the deal w the temp gauges is... Lured rusty dan over w beer... He figures it's the sending units. I had one of the packages, and the sender didn't match the gauge.
So I went to summit... Picked up new senders, so hopefully that will be the issue.
The trans temp senders seems to be right, so I'm not too hopeful that will help. If that isn't it, I donno what it could be. The gauge I have reads 150-400... Could it be that the trans temp is just NOT getting high enough to read????
So I went to summit... Picked up new senders, so hopefully that will be the issue.
The trans temp senders seems to be right, so I'm not too hopeful that will help. If that isn't it, I donno what it could be. The gauge I have reads 150-400... Could it be that the trans temp is just NOT getting high enough to read????
kling-on
Kool Arrow
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,503
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
My trans temp sensor is in the side of the case and it takes along time to get up to temp on the gauge ... I even have to block my trans cooler it the temps below 40* outside or it'll never get over 150.
- Thread starter
- #3,653
kling-on said:
Humph... I haven't had it out in temps above 40 deg... I wonder of that's part of the issue. Plus, I do have the trans cooler fan wired to run with the key on.
Thanks for the info!!
I agree the ambient temp could be keeping it from registering. Is the pan warm to the touch? Do you have an infrared temp gun? FWIW it takes my Super Duty a long time to get heat in the trans on cold days.
Sounds like you need to add a switch for the trans cooler.
- Thread starter
- #3,656
I am okay with low trans temps!!
I'll know tomorrow though.
I'll know tomorrow though.
kling-on
Kool Arrow
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,503
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
Also a Vortec voltage will read 2 volts low on most gauges. Autometer has gauges just for them. I use the stock 60 gauge since I can add just fine.
- Thread starter
- #3,658
The coolant temp sensor is now working...needed the appropriate sender.
Trans temp still wont budge, but I believe that the temp is just not getting high enough to register. donno what else it could be.
So I got everything back together and the trans tunnel is back in!
Trans temp still wont budge, but I believe that the temp is just not getting high enough to register. donno what else it could be.
So I got everything back together and the trans tunnel is back in!
kling-on
Kool Arrow
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 255
- Messages
- 5,503
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
Sweet great news
- Thread starter
- #3,660
