Chevy V8 to Toyota 4 speed (1 Viewer)

[critterhunter]

I put in a 305 chevy paid the big bucks to advance adapters for the bell housing to fit the toyota 4 speed but I'm having some problems withe the clutch, advance adapters recommend a centerforce clutch but I would prefer the 3 finger clutch has anyone messed with this? what throwout bearing is required and what kind of mods need to be made to the release arm. Or would it be better to just throw in a chevy 4 speed and transfer case? any words of wisdom.

 

[Alaskan40]

I am using the Toyota 4 speed: throwout bearing hub, fork, slave cylinder, and pivot point. The throwout bearing came with my Advanced Adapter kit, and I went down town and bought an 11" kevlar clutch and a regular pressure plate to fit the 168 tooth chevy flywheel. I was told by a good source to get a pre '69 cruiser brake mastercylinder to replace the clutch mastercylinder. That is the route that I am taking.

 

[Bennett]

what clutch disc and PP are you using ?

If you read the LCML and IH8MUD and PBB .. there are so many opinions on what should be used on SBC to LC 4speed to resolve cluthc issue. You could read all day. AA has a solution but spendy using a custome centerforce unit.
I went throught the same trauma. Finally with the help of a freind that runs a trans shop we came up with a solution. Chevy Clutch disc's do not belong on the LC input shaft ( sort of ..read on). There are different. They will slide on and work but there is a difference in tapered VS straight cut splines . Also you should use a matched Clutch fork with T/o bearing. IIRC the curved cast Chevy fork goes with the short T/o bearing. The flat cast fork(SM465 truck) goes with the long T/O .. ( again CHevy )... since you are using a SBC bellhousing I'd go Chev with one exeption that makes a huge difference. I had the Toyota inner hub from a LC clutch disc mated to a Chevy 11" clutch outer disc. I used the curved cast fork and the short throw out bearing. I used the diaphram multi fingered short throw pressure palte . ( most common anyway) vs the hard to adjust 3 fingered PP. My guess is you have Toyota parts floating on the input shaft and a Toyota Clutch fork ... IMO , I would only use the Toyota input clutch hub and go Chevy the rest of the way as it was engineered.the splines are different on LC verses Chevy, lots of people ignore it anyway.. that's why we mated the Toyota inner hub to the Chevy disc.
One more thing.. make sure you have the ball pivot for the fork adjusted out if need be or if your ball pivot is worn like mine.. replace it. ( $2.50 Chevy part that get's ignored) and you will eliminate allot of play that can inhibit fork throw. Again I learned the hard way. Just make sure there is no play between the ball pivot and it's seat with the reatainer spring in place. You can't fix the pivot , fork problem while the B/H and tarns are mated so check while it's out.
Ask me again how I know.
I have a bunch of link to show the pain I went through to solve my similar problem. PM me if you want.
Oh.. I use a 69 Brake master on the clutch for more throwon the slave... Mark Whatley ( LCML) suggested that and it works well.

 

[dgangle]

use the stuff they recommend cause it works and 50 million others can't be wrong.