Chevy 63" and FZJ80 FF Swamp

[Tin basher]

You can buy metric brake lines of different lengths at just about any auto Parts place cheap
Comes with fittings already flared on
Bending them to shape is easy even without a tube bender
You just have to take your time and not kink them

 

[Spook50]

Did you use a main leaf out of a 1/2 ton truck? Ditch those packs and buy some 3/4 ton 63" springs and stick them in. Definitely fix your shackle angle and re-evaluate before doing anything else.

Shackle angle should look something like this. These are 3/4 ton springs out of a ~2002 chevy duramax truck, which is also what you need:


End result. I've got a different axle than you, but it's irrelevant for the spring discussion.

Did you take any leafs out of those spring packs? Curious because it looks like on your application SOA is the only option. That's the ideal shackle angle I want when I eventually do this, but I would like to keep mine SUA rather than go the SOA route if I can.

 

[cruisermatt]

Did you take any leafs out of those spring packs? Curious because it looks like on your application SOA is the only option. That's the ideal shackle angle I want when I eventually do this, but I would like to keep mine SUA rather than go the SOA route if I can.

You're probably going to want a lift spring

 

[GLTHFJ60]

GLTHFJ60,
My buddy doesnt have free time to fix shackle angle until next week so in the mean time I can focus on installing ebrake and proper brake lines.

I trust you're not driving it then? You risk severe damage to the leaf spring (more than what's been done already) if you drive in this configuration.

Did you take any leafs out of those spring packs? Curious because it looks like on your application SOA is the only option. That's the ideal shackle angle I want when I eventually do this, but I would like to keep mine SUA rather than go the SOA route if I can.

I did not take any leafs out of the packs. In a SUA config, I'd eliminate the large overload spring but that's it. These springs work SUA and SOA, you just have to set up your mounts to match.

@90FJ did SUA 63" springs and FJ60 rear springs up front, same as my setup, but in a SUA configuration. He looks to have some awesome performance from his suspension setup. Check it out here:

RUF "rears up front" I DID IT, and it's amazing

 

[Randy88FJ62]

GLTHFJ60,
I will be driving it 10 miles home today in stop and go traffic. I'll go easy on the truck. I doubt it will ruin the spring, worst case I have access to another set of main leafs.

I also think the packs I have are not 1 ton after looking at yours so I'll eventually go to the junk yard again to find a proper set. Tuning is always required when such a big project happens. Brake lines are my main concern this weekend. Want to get those dialed.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You're the boss! It will ruin the spring, but you'll find that out soon enough.

Look for 3/4t springs, not 1t springs. 2500 chevy trucks, mid to late 2000s. 5 leafs including the overload. Each leaf is thicker than the 1/2t application.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

May be going to the junk yard this weekend then... hate not getting this done after all the work this past weekend. I learn best the hard way.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I learn best the hard way.

We all do my man, we all do. I've had my fair share, believe me

Keep it up, you'll work the kinks out soon enough!

 

[White Stripe]

I personally would keep the pack with the thinner leafs. If you can do more thin leafs then you can make the pack very progressive compared to a pack with half as many thick leafs. You want to try to keep the leafs so that they progressively get shorter as you get farther down the pack. The second leaf you want to have go from eye to eye basically. But then after that get progressively shorter length leafs. You seem to have a couple of leafs that are almost the same length in that pack. Which will stress the upper leafs and cause a less progressive ride. You can also buy the anti friction pads off of ebay or other places on the internet that go in between the leafs to help it move better. The cool thing about leaf springs is that they are easy to mess around with and change the ride characteristics.

 

[doug720]

You're the boss! It will ruin the spring, but you'll find that out soon enough.

Look for 3/4t springs, not 1t springs. 2500 chevy trucks, mid to late 2000s. 5 leafs including the overload. Each leaf is thicker than the 1/2t application.

You want to look for the 2500 model, not the 2500HD. The HD is almost the same as a one ton.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

As I said before in the posts above. I plan on cutting down a complete main leaf set and making a pseudo military wrap leaf that cradles main one then progressively shorter from there. If that fails then junk yard time.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Custom CuNi alloy brake lines goin in on the rear axle tomorrow with gravel armor. Double flare looks good for my second try.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Copper nickel alloy lines, standard coated steel M10-1.0 fittings, and gravel guard for a little extra piece of mind.

Also helping a friend do 3:1 tcase gears in his FZJ80.

Going to swap reman calipers, new stainless soft lines, and new extended stainless line from axle to frame this upcoming week.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Source for gravel guard?

 

[landcrusher909]

We just finished up doing alot of what your working on. We had lot of help and input from the guys here on Mud. Good Luck on your project It's on! No turning back

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I'd like the source for the gravel guard as well. Was not aware you could buy that separately.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Gravel guard MUST be put on BEFORE flares. So if you want to add it after the fact then you have to cut one flare off, feed it on, then re-flare the end. I purchased a 16 foot section off *amazon for $22 shipped prime over two days so it would arrive while I was forming lines. eBay was cheaper by $5 but I wanted it faster. I went for stainless gravel guard to avoid rust since the CuNi lines are also corrosion resistant. Hopefully galvanic corrosion doesn't go nuts on my brake line assembly.

It was easy to feed on and looks pretty. Whether or not it will really prevent any rock damage is up for discussion but I felt it was worth $22 to try it "while I was in there" doing lines.

They sell cheaper gravel guard that is not stainless if you're on a budget. One could easily rent a flare tool from a store, use mild steel line, and zinc coated gravel guard for pretty cheap.

The CuNi brake line was very easy to bend by hand and very easy to form the flares. You could almost argue it was too easy to bend and that's why I'm glad I went with gravel guard. I think the beefiest setup would be stainless line with stainless gravel guard.

*Gravel Guard Source:
Amazon.com: Stainless Brake Line Protector (Gravel Guard Spring) for 3/16" Tube - 16 Ft.: Automotive

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Landcrusher909,
I went through your build and nice work!

Who makes the 4:1 TCase gears with a 10% underdrive? I see advance adapters makes a 4:1 with 8% underdrive. Next year I might have to go 37's and TCase gears. The underdrive would work weill with my old motor and 4.88's.

 

[landcrusher909]

Landcrusher909,
I went through your build and nice work!

Who makes the 4:1 TCase gears with a 10% underdrive? I see advance adapters makes a 4:1 with 8% underdrive. Next year I might have to go 37's and TCase gears. The underdrive would work weill with my old motor and 4.88's.

Marlin Crawler and Thanks

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Landcrusher,
I see applications for FJ80's and newer and no FJ62's from marlin....?

Land Cruiser Crawler Gears | Marlin Crawler, Inc.