Chevy 63" and FZJ80 FF Swamp

[White Stripe]

The gap from the second leaf in length to the main leaf is pretty big and putting a lot of stress on the main leaf. I wouldn't be surprised if it were to break eventually. The second leaf should be a few inches longer in my opinion. Also, the shackle mount should only be tack welded. Then the vehicle lowered and angle checked as well as ride. The more angled the shackle is toward the axle the more articulation droop you will get, it will also affect the ride. Currently they look to be angled away from the axle at ride height, which you likely get less articulation that way compared to a stock soa rear fj60 spring setup.

 

[Tin basher]

I'd pull the springs apart and radius the sharp edges where it looks like the leafs where cut down
I had mainleafs break right where the sharp edge from the leafs I cut down rode
While fixing the shackle angle
Awesome to pull the swap off in that short a time

 

[Wile E Coyote]

I agree that tacking on the mounts and getting it on its own weight is an acceptable trial-and error way to set shackle angles. I also agree that your 2nd leaf is too short, and will overstress that main leaf.
Lastly, I think that you might have 2 too many leaves in that rear pack for ideal wheeling. I know you're pretty deep into it at this stage, but I'd consider 4 leaves with air bags. (I seem to remember a thread where you were trying to get a suspension that'll both handle hard 'crawling and highway-miles loaded heavy, thus the air bags)

 

[Randy88FJ62]

So we tacked the mounts then lowered onto full axle weight. I think we were too tired and dyslexic when we set the shackle angle. I will be ordering a new spring mount and adjusting shackle location next week.

Regarding the spring pack, I agree that the second leaf is too far away from the main leaf causing some serious stress. My friend who has the shop had two pairs of suburban leaf spring sets on his side yard. I plan on cutting the tops off a set of main leafs and creating a pseudo half military wrap style setup where the second spring cradles the main leaf / eye. Then I plan on taking a main leaf set from a shorter chevy pack and cutting them to length to be an inch or so short creating a third leaf that is near the ends. I'll take out some of the shorter ones and keep the short stiff anti-wrap spring.

The cut down springs were chamfered where they rest on the spring above. I can always do more on that.

Wile E Coyote,
I was hoping to avoid air bags or other add ons. I agree the current pack may be too thick for any good articulation during wheeling. Maybe time to look at air bags.

Assembling and re-assembling spring packs is no big deal as I still need to buy new u-bolts so I dont feel like I'm wasting hardware. Time is required to tune, especially when we did so much in a weekend.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Wile E Coyote,
I don't have enough experience with air bags. I have seen them in person working for overlanding in person on Manuchao's truck. The problem I don't see them solving is how heavy my truck is when I wheel. For the gf and I plus a dog we carry a heavy load with 15 gallons of extra gas on the already heavy rear 4x4 labs bumper. Adjusting air bags for the trail would only sag the springs and I assume damage them. So an air bag to me takes the place of what an extra 1-2 leafs can do. I don't mind running a 5 spring pack of thick chevy springs as long as they can handle the load. I am ok sacrificing a little bit of articulation for load capacity. The truck does Dusy Ershim and other hard trails without issue so I'm already at the trucks' wheeling limit until it rolls and gets chopped into a buggy.

I assume this is the type of product we are discussing:
BOSS Airbag Suspension Load Assist Kit---LAND CRUISER 1963-1990

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Did you use a main leaf out of a 1/2 ton truck? Ditch those packs and buy some 3/4 ton 63" springs and stick them in. Definitely fix your shackle angle and re-evaluate before doing anything else.

Shackle angle should look something like this. These are 3/4 ton springs out of a ~2002 chevy duramax truck, which is also what you need:

End result. I've got a different axle than you, but it's irrelevant for the spring discussion.

 

[White Stripe]

Are you going to install a traction bar at some point?

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Never needed one yet. The stock 3FE with bad compression doesn't torque it enough to cause axle wrap. The double cardon driveshaft I run probably handles it well too. We'll see how the new springs and driveline angle perform.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Local shop wants $75 to do custom rear hard brake lines. My friend has a flaring and bending tool set so I'll do my own brake lines.

Where is best place to order brake line? Local autozone or is there an online retailer that sells line , kits, etc? Also, what metric end fittings do I need? M8 by? or is there a designation / standard?

How about stainless versus standard steel? Did stock OEM hard line come stainless?

Is brake line armor worth anything or a gimmick?
Summit Racing® Armor Line Guards

 

[GLTHFJ60]

M10x1.0 fittings. Mild steel is what you need, not stainless. Stainless is too hard (the material is too hard) to use without hydraulic flaring tools. OEM hard lines are plated steel.

Search

 

[Randy88FJ62]

What about copper nickel brake line? Just trying to understand the different materials and options.
Shop Copper Nickel Brake Line Coils - Cunifer

I assume I'll go with mild steel. What is the diameter / size of line used with M10 X 1.0 fittings?

What are people using to hold hard lines onto axle? captive nut weld on tabs would be nice.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Never used Nickel Copper brake lines before. I suggest you start with mild steel. Go buy some cheap lengths from your local auto parts store and practice flaring before you flare on the lines you bend up for the axle.

3/16" lines are readily available and work just fine with M10x1.0 fittings. That's what I did on my truck.

Once again, search

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Thanks. I was searching fittings on summit and other brake stuff while I let you answer it for me

So captive nut brake tabs.... I want the lines to be secure, safe, and pro looking.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Fix the shackle angle first

 

[MANUCHAO]

You checked
Orme Brothers Inc. Performance Hose and Fittings
Yet?

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Yes. They want $75 to do the rear brake lines if I bring in a piece of wire with the bends. I'll probably have them do the rear soft caliper lines as they will be cheaper than oem. They probably have all the fittings too. Just sizing up my options online as well.

GLTHFJ60,
My buddy doesnt have free time to fix shackle angle until next week so in the mean time I can focus on installing ebrake and proper brake lines.

Stock FJ62 ebrake cable will not work since the FZJ80 axle is 4" wider total meaning 2" short on both sides with my stock cable. Luckily I have an 80 cable.

 

[MANUCHAO]

That axle did not come with any brake lines?

 

[Randy88FJ62]

It came with FZJ80 brake lines which leave the axle TEE on the left side of diff. the FJ62 TEE leaves the passenger side so the brake lines dont match. I am running them a the moment but they are a mess and would catch in the rocks or brush.

The FZJ80 axle brake lines ran around coil spring, control arm, and sway bar mounts so the new brake lines will be a straight run (other than the leaf spring perches).

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Maybe once I price out all the parts it may be cheaper to have it all bent and flared for me. We shall see.

 

[FJ60Seth]

Copper-nickel brake line is supposed to be the bomb, or go to any auto parts store and buy 3/8" mild steel. The fittings can be tricky though. AFAIK they're all 10mm x 1.0 but some are fully threaded long style, and some are non-threaded lead. There may be other styles too, I don't remember. I have a bunch or you may be able reuse your old ones. I also have a very nice flaring tool. FedHill is where i got my stuff. Let me know if you want some help.