Check Engine Light Again! (1 Viewer)

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Brentbba

Former Golfer
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Threads
432
Messages
10,864
Location
OC, CA
Ok, last time the check engine light came on, it didn't stay on and Yota said there was no stored code. Came on again this weekend and it's staying on this time. Ironically, it's come on both times while towing the troop's trailer. Any coincidence???

What terminals to I need to cross to pull the code. I'm going to do it myself this time.

TIA
 
Put the paper clip between TE1 and E1 and then turn the car on. Count the Check Engine light flashes. First number followed by short pause, then second number followed by long pause and repeat.

If you have more than one code it may be different, haven't seen that in person.
 
That's what I'm after. Thanks

I'll post results as soon as I get them.
 
Long pause 2 flashes, short pause 8 flashes, repeat. Is that a 28 or 82.

Let me know what I'm in for.

thanks
 
Brent,

You can use one of yer metal divot fixxer thingys to jump the pins if ya want. I know you have about 10 of them in your ash tray :flipoff2:



D-
 
It's a 28,

You most likely need O2 sensors :'( Have you had the campaign done?


D-
 
Dan,

I only have TWO divot repair tools in my LC, thank you very much. I really do. :flipoff2: :D :D :D

Damn on the o2's. You looked up my vin yourself. Campaign done in '96 and I know they were replaced after that as well on my dime.

Should they be failing at this rate??? Could that also be the reason I'm idling rough? Thought it was just plugs with 35K on them until they were replaced last month and I was still idling rough.

What's this going to run. Memory on the last time it was done out of my pocket was $300-400 bones at Mr. Yota.
 
A set of sensors, 89465-60110, lists for $220.03 . The labor should max at 1.5 hours, any more than that is sandbagging ;)

If you could bring yourself to play 9 instead of 18 one Saturday morning, you really could do them yourself........ :D
 
Me and who else? The last time these things were fawked with by a Yota dealer in Tustin they left wires hanging and it took two visits to a dealer in San Juan Capo to find and fix the fawk up from the Tustin dealer. San Juan guy didn't charge me at all. Been going there ever since.

May ask my father in law, who does all his own work on his Camry's if he's up to the task. He'll be down for Thanksgiving.
 
Brent,

You're right, wires and stuff. I shoulda known better. :D
 
Gee Brent,

Put the clubs down for couple of hours!!! :rolleyes:
It really is a pretty easy :banana: or :banana: :banana: @ the most !!! @ least we don't have serious rust issues around here, that would make it a PITA.
:D
 
Awe come on guys - I don't even know where the damn things are. If I did, I'd take a look and, perhaps, give it a try.

Father in law has an O2 sensor wrench? and tester and has done it. May give it a try this weekend.

If we do this, then how do I clear the code?
 
Just did this, if you can worm your hand/tools into place, its just a matter of getting at the two bolts that hold each sensor on. No need for a special wrench?? its either 10, 11, or 12 MM I think. Took me less than an hour. Location is immediatly forward (to the front of the car, i think?) of the Catylitic Convert..., on top of each of the two pipes that enter the front of the cat. Clear code by disconnecting battery for 5 minutes or so.

:cheers:
 
>> Clear code by disconnecting battery for 5 minutes or so. <<

Or pull the EFI fuse in the black box to the rear of the battery. Your battery is under the bonnet. You open the bonnet by pulling the handle next to the one that opens the fuel filler door. You *do* pump your own petrol don't you? :D

-B-
 
B - ouch! :D

Outside of Jomana's description above, any instructions or tips. Father in law and I are going to tackle this long weekend.

Gotta learn sometime.
 
Brent,
You can always wear an old pair of golfing gloves, it will keep your hands clean,and protected :D
 
That would only take care of my left hand. :D
 
Brent,
I typed this earlier and hit the reset button by mistake. I'll try again.

It has been reported that the earlier models have a wiring harness to the O2 sensors that runs close to the driveshaft. This harness can get frayed and that causes problems. While you are down there, check this out carefully and reroute or re-tape the harness if it is in harm's way.

I haven't removed my O2 sensors so I don't have any other suggestions. If you spray the bolts with penetrant then be careful to keep it away from the O2 sensors (new and old.) Just apply it to the threads and don't soak down everything. PB Blaster or the Toyota stuff.

-B-
 
Thanks B. All I've got is liquid wrench at home, but that ought to do for the bolts. Fortunately, we don't have much of a rust issue here in SoCal. Undercarriage of LC really looks very clean. Yes - I've been under there! :flipoff2: Had to turn up the adjustment on the Rancho's this past weekend for the trailer towing. Haven't turned them back down. Much stiffer ride with the setting at 9 instead of 4. Love the stiffness cornering! It isn't a Porsche, but it doesn't wallow like it used to do.
 

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