Chassis Saving (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 6, 2012
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Missouri
Since picking up the FJ62 up late last year, and sorting things out under the hood it is time to address the frame. Thankfully the truck spent most of its life in CA and NM, so it's not bad. There is surface rust on the outside of the framerails and axles, but as you'll see there are also many places retaining glossy factory paint. The inside of the frame is also still in paint and looks very nice. It will be getting coated internally with a Waxoyl-like concoction later.

The truck will be headed northeast with me this winter, so it needs some protection on the rusty areas. I decided to pick up a couple quarts of Chassis Saver to do the job. I'm not saying this is the best solution or the best product - I've never used it before. Since this is a DD and isn't a restoration or a perfect truck, this won't be a perfect job. I am doing a fair bit of cleaning and prep work, but won't obsess over not being able to reach on top of the rear crossmember, etc. Most of the hard to reach places haven't been subject to gravel spray and are still looking pretty good anyway.

Once the frame is cleaned up, doing a few coats of chassis saver is certainly more work than rattle canning something on, but hopefully the extra work and expense of the paint will be worth it in the long term.

A couple pictures of the "before cleaning" situation. The yellow paint marker is to indicate which bolts I have removed, cleaned up and applied anti-seize to. Seemed like a good thing to do with all the bolts under the truck prior to painting. Pressure washing, a wire brush, purple power degreaser and a garden hose were the instruments of cleansing.





Part way through the process..

Whoa! look what was hiding under all that grime! Original paint!


And a few more to show the general situation. Yes I know my knuckles need rebuilt, it's on the list..



















Plan is to finish all the cleaning and degreasing, hit what rusty areas I can reach with either a wire wheel or wire brush, then scuff up the still shiny paint areas with a 120 grit sanding pad before starting in with the aluminum chassis saver. Hope to get 2 coats of aluminum, 2 coats of gloss black, then a topcoat of krylon.

I will post up some pictures of the progress and finished product, and hope to be able to update this thread periodically with how it's holding up so others can use this to make informed decisions regarding these types of projects and painting methods/products.

Meanwhile, I'd welcome any comments or tips from anyone on the work left to do.
 
Good work.

I used Rust Bullet on my frame and underbody and I also don't know how it will out. The following link goes to the start of that project which took me several months to achieve:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/do...torque-is-too-much.541922/page-6#post-8766432

I will also report my results of Rust Bullit over time as well. Look forward to your Chassis Saver project for sure, as I will have future projects and want the best products then.

thanks

dougbert
 
Painting Tips:
Be sure to have lots of ventilation (big fan & paint outdoors) when painting and for at least 14 days after painting.
Do not paint in an unventilated area.
Use a positive pressure remote air supply respirator when using isocyanate based coatings.
A half mask respirator will not protect your lungs, regardless of the manufacturer's recommendation.
 
Painting Tips:
Be sure to have lots of ventilation (big fan & paint outdoors) when painting and for at least 14 days after painting.
Do not paint in an unventilated area.
Use a positive pressure remote air supply respirator when using isocyanate based coatings.
A half mask respirator will not protect your lungs, regardless of the manufacturer's recommendation.

Excellent point. It is definitely nasty stuff. As a note, I didn't specify above, but I will be brushing this stuff on. It will be outside in an open area with good airflow, and I will have a 3M mask with organic vapor filters.

This is what the MSDS has to say:
"RESPIRATORY PROTECTION - Where overspray is present, a positive pressure air supplied respirator (TC19C NIOSH/MSHA approved) should be worn. If unavailable, a properly fitted organic vapor/particulate respirator approved by NIOSH/MSHA for protection against materials in Section 2 may be effective. Follow respirator manufacturer's directions for use. Wear the respirator for the whole time of spraying and until all vapors and mists are gone."
 
I started with the silver aluminum; a few shots:







The silver went on good, it was an off/on again overcast day when I painted and looked as if it was about to rain all morning. The humidity was very high but I went ahead with getting going on this knowing I probably wouldn't have the opportunity to devote half a day to it any other time in the foreseeable future.

I scooped out about a cup at a time, putting cling wrap over the can before putting the lid pack on each time. The paint was applied with cheap paintbrushes (the kind with wood handles you get in a 24 pack of various sizes for a couple bucks at Lowes.) I tried foam brushes, and they left a smoother finish but the paint turned the foam into a floppy mess in short order. I think the paint would have leveled out better were it not for the very high humidity ( 90%+). The second coat of silver was very hard to see over the existing paint, as the wet and dry paint looks identical. I tried adding a little of the black into the silver to darken it up, which did help a bit. It didn't look like it mixed very well so I was hesitant to put more than a couple of teaspoons into a cup of silver.

When I started with the black, I started having some issues. During the silver application, by the time I made it back around to the corner of the truck I started at the paint was already dry to the touch. The night before, I had tried out the paint on the skid plate to see how I could expect it to behave. The silver went on great, and the black was also very nice. It went on much thicker than the silver and flowed over the brush marks beautifully. The final finish was mirror like.



I didn't take as many pictures as I should have, as it became quite tiring crawling around trying to get coverage on everything and I just wanted to get done.

The black started thickening up quickly, and started going on thicker and thicker and was curing before it would level out like it did on the skid plate. I'm confident I got everything covered good, but the finish wasn't as nice. When I had two coats on, I hit the whole thing with some gloss black Krylon spray paint as a topcoat.



I think this would have turned out better (aesthetically) had the humidity not been so high. Hopefully it will hold up. The next step will be to mix up some Waxoyl like concoction of mineral spirits, paraffin wax and bar and chain oil to coat everything including the inside of the frame. If I don't get around to that it should be sufficient to spray fluid film inside the frame before the winter.

If nothing else this process has cemented my resolve to galvanize the frame on my '40 when the time comes instead of messing around with any type of paint on coatings.
 
The interior of the frame hasn't been subjected to road debris so it still has paint and is very clean, I simply used the high pressure wand at the car wash pushed into and wiggled around in every frame hole till I got clear water running out.
 
I don't know if I've said it yet but I really like your FJ62, makes me want another to keep stock-ish to put around town in.
 
Thanks! I know the feeling...I used to drive an 83 K-5 (that I bought bone stock and in really good shape) that evolved into a monster ending up with tons, dual lockers, a 4 spd, 39.5's, a turbo, etc. My mistake was not wheeling it enough, but every time I saw a nice clean stocker I missed mine from the era when it got good mileage and had cruise control.. Eventually sold it when I picked up my '40..

With that experience in mind I don't think I will go crazy with the '62. She may get a small lift later on and maybe that spare Cummins B3.3 I've got kicking around...once my '40 is on the road and sorted.
 
Last edited:
Pre-cruiser days..





 
Since picking up the FJ62 up late last year, and sorting things out under the hood it is time to address the frame. Thankfully the truck spent most of its life in CA and NM, so it's not bad. There is surface rust on the outside of the framerails and axles, but as you'll see there are also many places retaining glossy factory paint. The inside of the frame is also still in paint and looks very nice. It will be getting coated internally with a Waxoyl-like concoction later.

The truck will be headed northeast with me this winter, so it needs some protection on the rusty areas. I decided to pick up a couple quarts of Chassis Saver to do the job. I'm not saying this is the best solution or the best product - I've never used it before. Since this is a DD and isn't a restoration or a perfect truck, this won't be a perfect job. I am doing a fair bit of cleaning and prep work, but won't obsess over not being able to reach on top of the rear crossmember, etc. Most of the hard to reach places haven't been subject to gravel spray and are still looking pretty good anyway.

Once the frame is cleaned up, doing a few coats of chassis saver is certainly more work than rattle canning something on, but hopefully the extra work and expense of the paint will be worth it in the long term.

A couple pictures of the "before cleaning" situation. The yellow paint marker is to indicate which bolts I have removed, cleaned up and applied anti-seize to. Seemed like a good thing to do with all the bolts under the truck prior to painting. Pressure washing, a wire brush, purple power degreaser and a garden hose were the instruments of cleansing.





Part way through the process..

Whoa! look what was hiding under all that grime! Original paint!


And a few more to show the general situation. Yes I know my knuckles need rebuilt, it's on the list..



















Plan is to finish all the cleaning and degreasing, hit what rusty areas I can reach with either a wire wheel or wire brush, then scuff up the still shiny paint areas with a 120 grit sanding pad before starting in with the aluminum chassis saver. Hope to get 2 coats of aluminum, 2 coats of gloss black, then a topcoat of krylon.

I will post up some pictures of the progress and finished product, and hope to be able to update this thread periodically with how it's holding up so others can use this to make informed decisions regarding these types of projects and painting methods/products.

Meanwhile, I'd welcome any comments or tips from anyone on the work left to do.

Oh no, you are removing the factory designed, self-replenishing undercoat system! :)
 
I did my old FJ60 back in the spring of 2012. I used Rust Bullet, first the automotive and then their blackshell. I have painted a number of chassis but this was the only one I have done with the body on it. Real bitch of a job. I can't comment on how it held up long term because I sold the truck not long after doing the frame.

rot repair12.jpg

rot repair13.jpg


While I was in there I also dealt with the common rot spot at the rear leaf hanger.

rot repair2.jpg

rot repair3.jpg

rot repair9.jpg


Don't think I ever want to do it that way again. Not a fun job in the slightest.

Cheers
 

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