Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter norsk
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Good research Dougbert, thanks for the washer p/n I didn't have it!
Keep up the good work, one fender and lantern at a time. 
- Thread starter
- #104
Keep up the good work, one fender and lantern at a time.
verily - one at a time! (His referral to the lantern is that he comes out to see how I am doing, and it is
dusk out and there I am with a CFL lantern trying to get those last bolts down near the firewall)
here are the pics of taking it apart, and one of the much cleaner TC (compare with pic in post #92)
now I can clean and repaint those panels
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #105
I am getting old
Upon looking at the diffs, I discovered that the plug/fills have ALREADY been done.
Then the memory came back. Kurt at Crusier Outfitters did put that in when he helped me put in the 4.11 members and an ARB air locker a while back - doh!
where did I put that reset button...........?
dougbert
- Thread starter
- #106
Ok, I have a naked frontal pic of the rig with all fenders and wells off.
So it begins: Portable drill complete with wire brushes and some elbow work.
While I have the rig at this point, I am doing a 1" body lift. I purchased the Man-a-fre Aluminum kit (bolts and pucks), then determined it didn't come with the rubber mounts - uh oh
after more searching, I discovered the 4Crawler product.
Man-a-free has a 20% restocking fee, but I like the 4Crawler product better with the wider (2.5") pucks over the 2" ones.
Option one is use the man-a-free pucks and get the 4Crawler bushings
Option two, return the man-a-free, take the hit ($25 isn't bad, when dealing with what is better) fee, and then get the HD 4Crawler with the wider pucks.
Any thoughts with that would help out.
thanks
dougbert
Why the tarp and the baggies on the cables? It rained the past 3 nights, and the labels on the wires started coming off - NOOO!
So it begins: Portable drill complete with wire brushes and some elbow work.
While I have the rig at this point, I am doing a 1" body lift. I purchased the Man-a-fre Aluminum kit (bolts and pucks), then determined it didn't come with the rubber mounts - uh oh
after more searching, I discovered the 4Crawler product.
Man-a-free has a 20% restocking fee, but I like the 4Crawler product better with the wider (2.5") pucks over the 2" ones.
Option one is use the man-a-free pucks and get the 4Crawler bushings
Option two, return the man-a-free, take the hit ($25 isn't bad, when dealing with what is better) fee, and then get the HD 4Crawler with the wider pucks.
Any thoughts with that would help out.
thanks
dougbert
Why the tarp and the baggies on the cables? It rained the past 3 nights, and the labels on the wires started coming off - NOOO!
- Thread starter
- #107
Well, instead of using a cordless drill and brush, I am using Jake's DeWalt 12,500 rpm grinder with a brush installed. Pic of the brush is above in prior post.
It surely rips the rust and debris off, and the old paint. The front part of the frame (forward of the engine mounts) looks really nice now.
But this post is about a body lift. I am doing the 4crawler lift, and have removed nuts, washers and lower bushings on passengers side, from mounts 1 to 5, so that is good.
The problem is number 6, where a post indicates access is there, but I cannot see it. I removed the pressboard and move the plastic on the rear vertical brace stud. I found a small panel on the vertical stud and remove that, but access is not seen by me.
Below are some pics of the right rear gate area and the vertical stud. The tip of the screwdriver is just above where I believe the bolt should be for the last mount.
How does one GET to it?
It surely rips the rust and debris off, and the old paint. The front part of the frame (forward of the engine mounts) looks really nice now.
But this post is about a body lift. I am doing the 4crawler lift, and have removed nuts, washers and lower bushings on passengers side, from mounts 1 to 5, so that is good.
The problem is number 6, where a post indicates access is there, but I cannot see it. I removed the pressboard and move the plastic on the rear vertical brace stud. I found a small panel on the vertical stud and remove that, but access is not seen by me.
Below are some pics of the right rear gate area and the vertical stud. The tip of the screwdriver is just above where I believe the bolt should be for the last mount.
How does one GET to it?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #108
After spending a hour or so searching/reading and searching some more, I posted the prior post. Then I went search again for an hour and found
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/532898-body-mount-swap-1-lift.html
where he posted pictures of where to look for those little access panels. You access them from UNDERNEATH the rig, not from on top like the other 5 do.
So, I found my answer.
My fuel pipe is very close to the body already, so even a 1" lift will effect it.
What is the fix for that? Adding a section of pipe to the fuel inlet? If so, I might do a 2" lift then. Since the power train and the radiator out already out of the rig, and will need fab'ing later anyway, then why not 2"
dougbert
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/532898-body-mount-swap-1-lift.html
where he posted pictures of where to look for those little access panels. You access them from UNDERNEATH the rig, not from on top like the other 5 do.
So, I found my answer.
My fuel pipe is very close to the body already, so even a 1" lift will effect it.
What is the fix for that? Adding a section of pipe to the fuel inlet? If so, I might do a 2" lift then. Since the power train and the radiator out already out of the rig, and will need fab'ing later anyway, then why not 2"
dougbert
Sorry for not responding to your pm sooner, but it looks like you figured it out. There's are two access doors underneath the truck, one door per side, for the rear body mounts.
Awww man! I was ahead of ya and now you throw a body lift in there! Shoot now I have to do one!!
Welding in motor mounts this weekend down here in steamy Fla. Keep up the hard work I need to be chasing someone to get my butt out in that heat!!
Welding in motor mounts this weekend down here in steamy Fla. Keep up the hard work I need to be chasing someone to get my butt out in that heat!!
- Thread starter
- #111
glthfj60, yeah I did, but it took some serious searching to find it. Glad it was there
John, you will get there first - my plan/schedule is sometime next spring to be complete - gotta earn that cash, ya know!
looks like my frame is still in pretty good shape, rust wise, just surface stuff
20 days of 100 here in Salt Lake City, record is 21 days.
Lots of fires, including one near Park City, burnt 8 homes. nasty stuff, low humidity (9%) - helps to dry paint though
dougbert
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #112
got #6 bolt and bushings out just fine
#5 bolt is fused with the spacer, won't budge. might sawsall it off
but progress is being made
dougbert
#5 bolt is fused with the spacer, won't budge. might sawsall it off
but progress is being made
dougbert
Yea sometimes you find yourself hoping the doggone thing would just break off.
Better luck today! Things always look better in the morning!
Better luck today! Things always look better in the morning!
- Thread starter
- #114
#5 came off well with the sawsall, and the washer has no damage
Got the body mounts wire brushed, and the Rust Bullet Metal Blast on them, and pictures of one coat of the Rust Bullet. Painted frame mount
points and the bottom of the body mount surfaces.
After the pics, I put on the 2nd coat and then a HUGE thunderstorm approached and I got things buttoned back up before the flood hit.
Pics of passenger side, #2, #4, #5 (notice the Hi-Jack holding the body up, along with 2x4s in various safety locations) and #6 body mounts
Tonight, I will paint them black and be able to mount the 2 inch lift. Then proceed to the driver's side
and yes, just the mount areas are being painted right now. I will complete both sides being lifted and then proceed to work on the rest of the frame
That way I will have a bit more head room down there. Will also put the tires on tire ramps to get the whole thing up.
Pain working in the field, but should do well for the next few weeks. The barn is a bit busy with other guys and their rigs
On the frame it is just surface rust, save for the spare tire cross brace, that has some deeper rust. Need to blast it
Rear quarter panels bottoms are gone. I have a replacement 1/8th panel for the right rear, just need some help
to do it.
As for the 2" lift I am doing and its impacts, I don't have to worry about the fan shroud since that all will be adjusted after the new motor is installed anyway.
I have extra long brakes anyway, so no problem there.
Fuel neck is not a bother since the tank lifted with the body.
I do have a concern about the steering drive line. I am researching the effects of that and possible solutions if needed.
I did buy a DeWALT grinder which can have a brush put on it. Will save jake's from my wear and tear
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-4...ne-Touch-Guard-DWE4011/203574137#.Uh544aw25fU
dougbert
Got the body mounts wire brushed, and the Rust Bullet Metal Blast on them, and pictures of one coat of the Rust Bullet. Painted frame mount
points and the bottom of the body mount surfaces.
After the pics, I put on the 2nd coat and then a HUGE thunderstorm approached and I got things buttoned back up before the flood hit.
Pics of passenger side, #2, #4, #5 (notice the Hi-Jack holding the body up, along with 2x4s in various safety locations) and #6 body mounts
Tonight, I will paint them black and be able to mount the 2 inch lift. Then proceed to the driver's side
and yes, just the mount areas are being painted right now. I will complete both sides being lifted and then proceed to work on the rest of the frame
That way I will have a bit more head room down there. Will also put the tires on tire ramps to get the whole thing up.
Pain working in the field, but should do well for the next few weeks. The barn is a bit busy with other guys and their rigs
On the frame it is just surface rust, save for the spare tire cross brace, that has some deeper rust. Need to blast it
Rear quarter panels bottoms are gone. I have a replacement 1/8th panel for the right rear, just need some help
to do it.
As for the 2" lift I am doing and its impacts, I don't have to worry about the fan shroud since that all will be adjusted after the new motor is installed anyway.
I have extra long brakes anyway, so no problem there.
Fuel neck is not a bother since the tank lifted with the body.
I do have a concern about the steering drive line. I am researching the effects of that and possible solutions if needed.
I did buy a DeWALT grinder which can have a brush put on it. Will save jake's from my wear and tear
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-4...ne-Touch-Guard-DWE4011/203574137#.Uh544aw25fU
dougbert
Last edited:
4crawler web site shows a steering shaft extension that is needed for body lifts over one inch. As you noted the radiator shroud will have to be dealt with. You might have an issue with part of the wiring harness but that is something you will just have to look out for, and I assume your trans shifter and tc will be ok but you'll have to see about that. And then as you noted your brake hoses.
I have the one inch body lift from 4crawler and he is the guy to deal with on that stuff unless you make your own (in my view). I did the body lift to help with tire scrub off road.
I have the one inch body lift from 4crawler and he is the guy to deal with on that stuff unless you make your own (in my view). I did the body lift to help with tire scrub off road.
- Thread starter
- #116
thanks for the reference (that is what is great about this community).
As for wires, all hanging on the body at the moment, will all be readjusted when re-connected
No idea yet on shifters as all of that is currently out of the vehicle
this is just getting FUN!
Update:
4crawler website indicates that with a 2" lift, no steering extension is needed
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml#PolyBushings
Application 1" Lift 1.5" Lift 2" Lift 3" Lift
Toyota {F,B,H}J-6{0,1,2} Landcruiser N N N N
Good news
dougbert
W1DUG
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #117
got the right side mounts painted black, look good
dougbert
dougbert
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml#Kits
looks like I was wrong...on the requirement for a steering extension...I was sure he had said that before...
anyway apparently the web site notes no steering extension required.
My mistake..sorry for the wrong info.
looks like I was wrong...on the requirement for a steering extension...I was sure he had said that before...
anyway apparently the web site notes no steering extension required.
My mistake..sorry for the wrong info.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #119
absolutely no problem. Having others question my assumptions help ensure a better build. If not this time, another time you will help prevent extra work/money/time.
thanks
BTW, got the pucks, bushings, washers and bolts on, save for #3 and #4, the bolts are too short by 1/2 inch. So I will visit the hardware store tomorrow morning for a grade 8, 6 inch bolt instead of the 5.5 inch.
Interestingly, #2 and #6 fit snug, but #3-5 all have gaps under the body - something bent in the body?
dougbert
- Thread starter
- #120
Got to "play" 8 hours on the truck on saturday.
Passenger side lift installed, now I have the driver's side up on the hi-lift, and mount #2 cleaned and 1st coat of Rust Bullet on it. Will be repeat of the passenger side. I like the height gain.
In addition, painted the front part of the frame - boy, there was a LOT of oil/dirt in the crevasses in that. Took several cans of brake cleaner - that works wonders
1st pic is #2 passenger mount
2nd pic of gap at the rear, Jake suggested a nice rubber curtain under there, until I get the rear bumper built
3rd and 4th pic of painted frame
Last pic is a AFTER of right rear wheel with the lift, snow tire with studs, 31x10.5x15
Now there is some height for my rig. Forgot to get a BEFORE pic......
Looking at one set of wheels will be 285x70x15 (which are the summer rims I have now which are empty at the moment)
And looking at 16 or 17 inch rims for a 3rd set.
I will borrow some 305x70x16 and see how it works as well.
Trying to finish up the rust on the rig, etc before putting it to bed for the winter, and I can get back to the engine.
Hoping for engine/tranny install next string
and yeah, that rear panel needs some replacing. I have the panel, just need either skills or money to get it done
dougbert
Passenger side lift installed, now I have the driver's side up on the hi-lift, and mount #2 cleaned and 1st coat of Rust Bullet on it. Will be repeat of the passenger side. I like the height gain.
In addition, painted the front part of the frame - boy, there was a LOT of oil/dirt in the crevasses in that. Took several cans of brake cleaner - that works wonders
1st pic is #2 passenger mount
2nd pic of gap at the rear, Jake suggested a nice rubber curtain under there, until I get the rear bumper built
3rd and 4th pic of painted frame
Last pic is a AFTER of right rear wheel with the lift, snow tire with studs, 31x10.5x15
Now there is some height for my rig. Forgot to get a BEFORE pic......
Looking at one set of wheels will be 285x70x15 (which are the summer rims I have now which are empty at the moment)
And looking at 16 or 17 inch rims for a 3rd set.
I will borrow some 305x70x16 and see how it works as well.
Trying to finish up the rust on the rig, etc before putting it to bed for the winter, and I can get back to the engine.
Hoping for engine/tranny install next string
and yeah, that rear panel needs some replacing. I have the panel, just need either skills or money to get it done
dougbert
Last edited:
