Chasing the click/clunk when slowing down to stop (1 Viewer)

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Can you guys tell me if this is normal when I tried to rock the tires back and forth. Thanks

 
Yup.
 
Yep, but looks on the excessive slop side of normal.

Pop the dust caps off the end of the hubs and the c-clip off the end of the birfs and look at how much slop there is at the birf/drive flange spline
 
It took me a while to get use to the clunk/thud of dropping my honda motorcycle into gear. Felt like the tranny was breaking every time.

Mechanic told me it's the "honda thud of quality".
 

Thanks

Yep, but looks on the excessive slop side of normal.

Pop the dust caps off the end of the hubs and the c-clip off the end of the birfs and look at how much slop there is at the birf/drive flange spline

How to fix this? Just rebuilt the knuckle and replaced the axles with RCV

It took me a while to get use to the clunk/thud of dropping my honda motorcycle into gear. Felt like the tranny was breaking every time.

Mechanic told me it's the "honda thud of quality".

Have owned this truck for 5 years. Don't remember hearing these noises
 
How to fix this? Just rebuilt the knuckle and replaced the axles with RCV

You need to check the drive flanges, see if they are worn. A tiny bit of wear leads to a lot of slop in the assembly.

It could also be in the diff, too much play between the pinion and ring gear due to wear or loose bearings.

It could conceivably be that your new axle splines don't meet the stock tolerances.

Or it may be normal and you just never noticed it.
 
How to fix this? Just rebuilt the knuckle and replaced the axles with RCV



Have owned this truck for 5 years. Don't remember hearing these noises

Did you fit new drive flanges? New birf into chopped out drive flange could be a problem.

Some of it will be slop within the diff too, it's normal to have some slop because there's a lot of gear, to gear connections, and splined connections, all of which have some play.

The drive flange is the joint that has most leverage on it IMO.
it's the first thing I'd be looking at, and possibly the easiest and cheapest fix
 
Thanks
You need to check the drive flanges, see if they are worn. A tiny bit of wear leads to a lot of slop in the assembly.

It could also be in the diff, too much play between the pinion and ring gear due to wear or loose bearings.

It could conceivably be that your new axle splines don't meet the stock tolerances.

Or it may be normal and you just never noticed it.

Could be diff too. Moved up to 5.29 and it is noisy under load.

Did you fit new drive flanges? New birf into chopped out drive flange could be a problem.

Some of it will be slop within the diff too, it's normal to have some slop because there's a lot of gear, to gear connections, and splined connections, all of which have some play.

The drive flange is the joint that has most leverage on it IMO.
it's the first thing I'd be looking at, and possibly the easiest and cheapest fix

I reused the original flanges, only 285k miles on it :). Will take a look on them later.
 
Could be diff too. Moved up to 5.29 and it is noisy under load.

That right there would make me a little nervous. Mine are not noticeable.
 
Moved up to 5.29 and it is noisy under load.

So, are you running on 37s too?

If wear at the flanges gives a few extra degrees of play, with 18 inches or so of leverage in the tire diameter, a few degrees slop at the flange adds up to a few inches rotation at the tire circumference.
But sounds like your flanges would still have all the factory machining marks in them still. :rofl:
 
That right there would make me a little nervous. Mine are not noticeable.

I will have the shop look at it again.

So, are you running on 37s too?

If wear at the flanges gives a few extra degrees of play, with 18 inches or so of leverage in the tire diameter, a few degrees slop at the flange adds up to a few inches rotation at the tire circumference.
But sounds like your flanges would still have all the factory machining marks in them still. :rofl:

Yes I am running 37". I'll take pics of the flanges once I have them apart so we can see if they're still good.
 
If your driveshaft splines are dry can cause a clunk. This type of thing will often happen with the rig stopped, by shifting D to R, makes finding it easier using a stethoscope.
 
If your driveshaft splines are dry can cause a clunk. This type of thing will often happen with the rig stopped, by shifting D to R, makes finding it easier using a stethoscope.

I give the driveshafts a few pumps of grease every few thousand miles but will give that a try.
 
Is this too much slop?



 
Doesn't look bad, but, where are the snap-rings? Also they look dry, should be greased.

I removed the snap-rings for video purpose. I filled the hub cavity with grease. Should i add more?
 
I had a clunk that ended up being two different noises. Had to remove one before I could here the other. The first clunk was my rear driveshaft in bad need of grease. Caused when going into D/R and on the trail. Once gone there was a deeper thump. Felt like there was weird movement in my drivetrain on acceleration and sometimes at braking. Ended up being my rear control arm bushings. Rubber was shot. New bushings fixed that. Worth a look.
 
The splines on birf end/drive plate should be greased.

Got it.

I had a clunk that ended up being two different noises. Had to remove one before I could here the other. The first clunk was my rear driveshaft in bad need of grease. Caused when going into D/R and on the trail. Once gone there was a deeper thump. Felt like there was weird movement in my drivetrain on acceleration and sometimes at braking. Ended up being my rear control arm bushings. Rubber was shot. New bushings fixed that. Worth a look.

I replaced all the bushings last years. Was under the truck listening for noise from front driveshaft while my bro shifting R-D, it didnt make noise but there was some noises coming from the diff like it's engaging. All the nuts/bolts on the tie-rod, relay, panhard, sway-bars, radius arms, and caliper are torqued to spec. I will crawl under the truck again to check all the nuts and bolts.
 

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