91 Land Cruiser Knuckle Rebuild Parts Check (2 Viewers)

[ClassicYotas]

Hey guys,

I know the knuckle rebuild question has been exhausted, however, as mine is a diesel I want to make sure I get all the correct parts (both direct and indirect (like grease)) as I do not know if there are minor changes.

Full transparency: I have no tools and will be going to a DIY garage in my city. I do not know if the tools required (54 mm hub socket, Spring scale gauge, knuckle stud socket, Form-in-place-gasket) are common place in any reputable garage, or if you recommend I purchase them.

As of now the parts I plan to get are as follows:

Cruiser Outfitters
Knuckle Rebuild kit - 80 Series
Part# FA9097
With Timken Bearings
Part# FA9097TWB

Birf Joints:
See part# FACL27091 & FACL34005 x2

Grease:
For the bearings and birfs i was going to use Amsoil moly grease
Found here: Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease, NLGI #2

I need to fill it 2/3rds. How much is that? How much of the above should I buy?

Is there anything else I am missing?

Attached are pictures of my truck the day I screwed stuff up.

I also don't know whats going on with the rear:

Hopefully this helps.

Thank you for all your help

 

[MauricioR]

As far as I know the Knuckle Rebuild kits are the same for FJ80, FZJ80, HDJ80 & HZJ80.
For the HDJ80 in specific, according to toyotadiy the part number for the knuckle rebuild kit is 04434-60051.
The outer bearing have 2 OEM brands and part #:
90080-36067 TIMKEN
90368-45087 KOYO

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They use 2/3 to 3/4 full. Some people does it 10-20 shots or squirts.

2/3:

3/4:

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Regarding your wet Diff. Seem like is leaking oil through the oil filler bolt, I repaired mine by using Teflon tape.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Outside of the engine bay, there is very little that is different between a diesel or petrol landcruiser. It saves Toyota and us money through commonality of parts.

You need heaps of rags to clean up the grease and some more. Lots of handcleaner also, I like BP handcleaner..
And washers for the diff plugs.
If they don't have bins there, you may need a few plastic garbage bags for your greasy rags.
Do you have any tools at all? I wouldn't start it without a full set sockets , spanners etc.
A brass drift and ballpeen hammer is handy for tapping out the hub screws.

 

[mudgudgeon]

the parts will be the same for the Fj80 or HDJ80.

I would say you will need inner axle seals (1 each side) if not included in the Cruiser Outfitters kit.

Also, If you are changing the Birfs, I would highly recommend using birfs from a '94 or later. This means you will also need drive flanges to match. Drive flange to birf spline connection is longer, and less susceptible to wear, and driveline slop.


I would forget about the fish scale method for setting bearing preload, fish scales are for fishing. The factory method is too unreliable, and too many loose or failed front bearings in short order as a result.
Use the @Tools R Us method. Torque the first bearing retaining nut to 20-30ft/lb (30 for large tyres), rotate the hub, retorque. fit lock tab washer, then torque the outer bearing lock nut to 45ft/lb, bend locking tabs, some inward, some outward. All done.


It would probably be worth purchasing a hub nut socket ahead of time. You'll be snookered without it, and I think its probably unlikley there'll be one at a DIY shop.
Wits End @NLXTACY supplies them. Cruiser Outfitters @cruiseroutfit probably has them too.

the knuckle rebuild kit should have new gaskets in it. You shouldn't need FIPG for the knuckle build.

rear diff looks like it just needs a new copper, or alloy washer on the plug. If its copper, you can anneal the washer by heating cherry red with a torch and allowing to cool. Or just replace the plug and washer, cheap enough through Toyota (in AUS anyway)

 

[roscoFJ73]

I bought one of these Kinchrome 54mm hub sockets. Nice quality for the price. Its thin and fits tight on the hex.

 

[mudgudgeon]

If the knuckle kit doesn't have trunion bearings in it, I'd be changing them too. To change birfs, you're 90% of the way to changing trunions, and to do them later is a PITA.

Also clean and reinstall the 4 steering arm/knuckle studs on the bottom of the knuckle, torque to spec (72ft/lb i think), install new ones. Correct torque is essential!!

I'd also think about changing tierod end joints while you are at it.

with new wheel bearings, new trunion bearings, new TREs, the truck should steer and feel like new

 

[cruiseroutfit]

the parts will be the same for the Fj80 or HDJ80.

I would say you will need inner axle seals (1 each side) if not included in the Cruiser Outfitters kit.

Parts are the same for all 8x Series Front Axles, petrol or diesel.

All of our knuckle kits feature the Japanese NOK seals which is exactly the same as the OEM Toyota. We have them in a Toyota bag if you want those too

Cruiser Outfitters @cruiseroutfit probably has them too.

the knuckle rebuild kit should have new gaskets in it. You shouldn't need FIPG for the knuckle build.

We definitely have the hub sockets (part# FA15007) by the hundreds

We do use the AISIN FIPG in a very light layer on several of the gaskets during rebuilds here in the shop. Some do them dry and I can't fault that.

rear diff looks like it just needs a new copper, or alloy washer on the plug. If its copper, you can anneal the washer by heating cherry red with a torch and allowing to cool. Or just replace the plug and washer, cheap enough through Toyota (in AUS anyway)

We've got all the drain plugs and washers too (both steel and alloy as needed). Good eye on spotting that!

 

[mudgudgeon]

I bought one of these Kinchrome 54mm hub sockets. Nice quality for the price. Its thin and fits tight on the hex.

I filed the end of the six flat sides straight. Mine had quite a curve in it (curved end is visible in the pic above) it has much better purchase on the thin nuts with the flattened off end.

 

[ClassicYotas]

Outside of the engine bay, there is very little that is different between a diesel or petrol landcruiser. It saves Toyota and us money through commonality of parts.

You need heaps of rags to clean up the grease and some more. Lots of handcleaner also, I like BP handcleaner..
And washers for the diff plugs.
If they don't have bins there, you may need a few plastic garbage bags for your greasy rags.
Do you have any tools at all? I wouldn't start it without a full set sockets , spanners etc.
A brass drift and ballpeen hammer is handy for tapping out the hub screws.

I have basic tools like ratchets and a hammer.

If the knuckle kit doesn't have trunion bearings in it, I'd be changing them too. To change birfs, you're 90% of the way to changing trunions, and to do them later is a PITA.

Also clean and reinstall the 4 steering arm/knuckle studs on the bottom of the knuckle, torque to spec (72ft/lb i think), install new ones. Correct torque is essential!!

I'd also think about changing tierod end joints while you are at it.

with new wheel bearings, new trunion bearings, new TREs, the truck should steer and feel like new

Can you tell me more about the torque specs?

 

[mudgudgeon]

I have basic tools like ratchets and a hammer.


Can you tell me more about the torque specs?

If you search "knuckle rebuild" and "knuckle studs" in the 80s tech section, you'll find loads of info including torque specs from the FSM

 

[mudgudgeon]

Catastrophic Knuckle Failure

a recent thread about knuckle studs

 

[Tapage]

I have basic tools like ratchets and a hammer.


Can you tell me more about the torque specs?

no affiliation ..

80 Series Front Axle Reference Poster- 18"x27", Version 2

 

[Freewheel]

forget about hand cleaner. Buy a box of 100 5 or 8 mil nitrile gloves. and a ton of paper towel.
+1 on getting a brass bar (drift) (although if you are punching out your disc studs, I find it easier to do with 2 ball peen hammers. Put the ball of one hammer on the studs and hit it with the other. I also recommend a full face visor when bashing hammering tool steel against tool steel)

 

[ClassicYotas]

Hey guys, my knuckle rebuild kit just arrived a few days ago from @cruiseroutfit . Do you guys think I should order a new birfiield joint or birfield/axle combination joint or are those two components rarely damaged?

 

[mudgudgeon]

How many miles on the rig? They should be good for 200k miles plus (depending on use).
How healthy is your "while your in there" budget?

The early 80s are somewhat prone to wear and tear of the spline on the end of the birfs, and inside the drive flanges.
From 94 on the birfs where longer, along with thicker drive flanges to match.

Wear here is a big cause of driveline slop.

You can check for wear ahead of tearing into the knuckles.
Jack up one front wheel, pop the dust cap off the centre of the hub, remove the c-clip, and roll the wheel backward and forward and watch for slop where the splines are engaged in the drive flange.
There'll be a few degrees of play, but should not be a lot.

If you are going to change birfs, order '94 birfs and drive flanges too.

 

[ClassicYotas]

How many miles on the rig? They should be good for 200k miles plus (depending on use).
How healthy is your "while your in there" budget?

The early 80s are somewhat prone to wear and tear of the spline on the end of the birfs, and inside the drive flanges.
From 94 on the birfs where longer, along with thicker drive flanges to match.

Wear here is a big cause of driveline slop.

You can check for wear ahead of tearing into the knuckles.
Jack up one front wheel, pop the dust cap off the centre of the hub, remove the c-clip, and roll the wheel backward and forward and watch for slop where the splines are engaged in the drive flange.
There'll be a few degrees of play, but should not be a lot.

If you are going to change birfs, order '94 birfs and drive flanges too.

At this point, I just want to make sure I dont have to take everything apart again. When I disengage center lock (the only way I can move now) it grinds and goes no where.

What do you mean by slop?

edit: Also it has about 130k miles on it.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Grinding and goes no where? That certainly isn't normal and very likely could mean you have much more going on inside your axle beyond leaky seals. It could also be a differential failure, axle shaft, birf, etc. My recommendation would be to get it opened up and start tracking down the failure. We can assist with any of the parts you need to get back to normal.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Slop = backlash = excessive free play or looseness where the splines engage.

 

[ClassicYotas]

I'm going to post a video of what it sounds like when I turn off center diff and try and drive normally. Maybe you guys can help diagnose.

 

[ClassicYotas]

Hey guys,

Here is the link to the video of what it sounds like when I disengage center diff lock and slowly take off the clutch.



Let me know if that link doesnt work.

@cruiseroutfit