Rear Brake slapping click/clunk noise. What the heck

[dbbowen]

The disc brake pad clearance can't be adjusted. When the brakes are applied the pads clamp the rotor. When the brakes are released the pads get retracted by the runout of the rotor to the point they have very little clearance which is perfectly normal provide the pistons in the caliper are not frozen. To me your description sounds like the hand brake shoes are causing the problem and have not been properly adjusted or the shoes are not floating on the backing plate due to corrosion etc.. To adjust the the hand brake you need to constantly apply the hand brake as you adjust to "center" the shoes on the diameter. Once the pad drags you need to back off a few clicks of the adjuster. If you don't do this properly the hand brake will drag, heat up and expand causing more drag.

Thats the weird thing, everything is new. Backing plates arent new but i refurbished them off the axle too. I literally had the whole axle housing taken down as far as it would go in my garage

I literally bought every single parking brake factory part including the cable to get my parking lever action FSM tight.

The insane vibration after truck had a chance to warm up made me suspect the worst like a busted axle. I even tried to hold the lever on the way back to the shop to burn through the pad (I.e. break in per FSM) to no avail.

It was only after we backed off via the adjustment screw that truck drove normally, but with a sloppy lever and sht hold. I drove around tail tucked for a while until I was able to find time to drop off my 80 at Valley Hybrids where Georg's crew were able to work their magic to get my parking brake action to acceptable levels (+hold) sans stupid vibration/noise.

Good luck, pal!

well s***. Now i know. I bet thats what it is. Thanks man. Im going to do this next.

The thing to remember with the parking brake on these is that they should only hold after 7 clicks. They are not like a passenger car park brake that holds after a couple of clicks. The reason for this is to allow for suspension travel when off roading which is adjusted too tight will activate the PBrake when flexing as the cable gets pulled.

When I adjust mine i back off the star nuts so theres alot of play, pull the lever up 7 clicks and then adjust the star nut at each wheel to the point where it just starts to bite. Have done this always and never had an issue plus the PB holds just fine. Still has the original PB shoes too

another tell tale sign of overtightened PBrake is when you have the wheel and caliper removed if you cannot slide the disc rotor off easily

Dude the adjust with the lever pulled is pretty genius to be honest. Ive always had to adjust with it down and get it just right from lever down because every toyota ive ever owned had automatic adjusting brake shoes. The 80 is weird and doesnt have the spring loaded bar in there to lock the adjuster. Im going to adjust your way. I like a strong holding parking brake. That was like the only good thing about my 60 series's original brakes. I could stop at highway speeds with the parking brake. I may or may not have had to drive across most of utah on a sunday with no brakes last year haha

 

[ppc]

Backing plates arent new but i refurbished them off the axle too. I literally had the whole axle housing taken down as far as it would go in my garage

Maybe fresh sticky paint on the backing plate. I would use a type of two part epoxy paint that has a really hard surface.

 

[jonheld]

Not meaning to be a wise ass, but it comes pretty easily for me.
Get OEM rotors.