How many years did it take for your's to go bad?
That's how long you'll have to worry about re-opening it.
Use RTV gasket maker. Holds up against gasoline. Cleans up with solvent.
Charcoal Cannister Valve
- Thread starter Nolan Sylvester
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How many years did it take for your's to go bad?
That's how long you'll have to worry about re-opening it.
Use RTV gasket maker. Holds up against gasoline. Cleans up with solvent.
Guess what?....mine just started this today. Maybe we can replace things one bit at a time if you're still interested in finding out.
2001LC
SILVER Star
So what's going on? CEL, smells, running or not?
My 2005 LX470 (136k miles) has thrown P2418 twice in the month or so I've owned it, and I started a thread or two about it. The FSM indicates a bad evap VSV as the only culprit when P2418 is the only code. I was at the dealership yesterday having some warranty work done on my FR-S, and while I was there I asked about the valve and was told that it wasn't available separately; you had to buy the entire canister assembly.
For those of you who replaced just the valve, what part number did you use? Did you have to do any fabbing/bracket cutting to replace it, or is it just bolts and clamps like the vsvs in the engine compartment? The Toyota tech I spoke with said they see a lot of corrosion at the contacts of the evap vsv due to it's location, and suggested I just clean the contacts first... and I will.
For those of you who replaced just the valve, what part number did you use? Did you have to do any fabbing/bracket cutting to replace it, or is it just bolts and clamps like the vsvs in the engine compartment? The Toyota tech I spoke with said they see a lot of corrosion at the contacts of the evap vsv due to it's location, and suggested I just clean the contacts first... and I will.
The evap VSV n the valve cover is the more likely culprit than the one on the canister, IMHO. Get a vacuum gauge and test it via the FSM procedure through the green-capped test port. And the valve on the canister is available from Rock Auto.
I tested the two vsvs in the engine compartment per the FSM, at least electrically and air-flow-wise. I don't have a pressure/vac gauge/pump to use wth the test port, so I haven't done those tests. Electrically and air-flow function-wise, the CCV VSV and VSV for Evap (the one you refered to) are both working properly. If anyone has a link to the gauge you're using at the testport, I'd be MOST grateful.. can't find anything that deals with those low pressures, but then again I'm not sure exactly what to use as search terms.
Besides that fact that these VSVs checked out OK, I homed in on the vsv at the canister because the FSM gives ONLY that possibility as a cause when ONLY code P2418 is thrown without accompanying codes. Of course, that certainly doesn't mean that it IS the only possibility...
Besides that fact that these VSVs checked out OK, I homed in on the vsv at the canister because the FSM gives ONLY that possibility as a cause when ONLY code P2418 is thrown without accompanying codes. Of course, that certainly doesn't mean that it IS the only possibility...
Smells and noise. It’s running fine. No codes. It happened when driving on some backroads yesterday. It was quite bumpy.
Plain old parts store vacuum gauge. Screws in the fitting. The VSV can work, electrically, and still be jammed up. Vacuum test will shed more light on their health.I tested the two vsvs in the engine compartment per the FSM, at least electrically and air-flow-wise. I don't have a pressure/vac gauge/pump to use wth the test port, so I haven't done those tests. Electrically and air-flow function-wise, the CCV VSV and VSV for Evap (the one you refered to) are both working properly. If anyone has a link to the gauge you're using at the testport, I'd be MOST grateful.. can't find anything that deals with those low pressures, but then again I'm not sure exactly what to use as search terms.
Besides that fact that these VSVs checked out OK, I homed in on the vsv at the canister because the FSM gives ONLY that possibility as a cause when ONLY code P2418 is thrown without accompanying codes. Of course, that certainly doesn't mean that it IS the only possibility...
Also, I believe the VSV on the canister just exposes the pressure sensor to vacuum? Can't remember. The VSV on the valve cover is what allows the fumes to get sucked into the intake.I tested the two vsvs in the engine compartment per the FSM, at least electrically and air-flow-wise. I don't have a pressure/vac gauge/pump to use wth the test port, so I haven't done those tests. Electrically and air-flow function-wise, the CCV VSV and VSV for Evap (the one you refered to) are both working properly. If anyone has a link to the gauge you're using at the testport, I'd be MOST grateful.. can't find anything that deals with those low pressures, but then again I'm not sure exactly what to use as search terms.
Besides that fact that these VSVs checked out OK, I homed in on the vsv at the canister because the FSM gives ONLY that possibility as a cause when ONLY code P2418 is thrown without accompanying codes. Of course, that certainly doesn't mean that it IS the only possibility...
2001LC
SILVER Star
You've the pre 03 with canister in front. Could you tell if smell was from under hood or rear area. If rear it may have been your gas cap and sound of boiling gas. Also check all your vacuum line condition. Around 10 years and they start getting hard, older they may be leaky
The smell I couldn’t exactly tell. The sound was definitely at the canister. The hoses could be in better shape, so I should probably replace those first.
2001LC
SILVER Star
The lines tend to be ok unless disturb. Replacing brake master is a bit disruptive to rubber hoses (lines). There is one line that just drop down fender skirt near fuel filter and ends, it's a breather. Make sure it's not plugged. If the smell passes and no CEL, I'd take a wait and see approach.
Of course replace any bad line, including all vacuum lines on intake manifold, air box, power steering, fuel pressure regulator, PCV including PVC & PVC grommet.
Also while messing around under hood; Make sure screw of fuel pressure pulsation damper pops up when engine running.
PS: Year and mileage in the signature line will be helpful.
Of course replace any bad line, including all vacuum lines on intake manifold, air box, power steering, fuel pressure regulator, PCV including PVC & PVC grommet.
Also while messing around under hood; Make sure screw of fuel pressure pulsation damper pops up when engine running.
PS: Year and mileage in the signature line will be helpful.
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@bluesquirrel What kind of blue lines are those? Just wondering why you chose them instead of traditional vacuum lines. I got a CEL for P0441 today, "evap emission control system purge flow fault". No other codes, just that. I'm first going to pick up a new gas tank cap when I drop by the toyota dealer to pick up my alternator brushes. Then I'm checking the vacuum lines on the canister. I suppose if the CEL comes back I'm either looking at the canister or the valve on top.
Jerry- Is 6mm the target size or 5mm? I found a supplier that sells btf: Silicone Vacuum Hose | Silicone Vacuum Tubing | Silicone Couplers - Flex Technologies
8,6, 4, and 3.5
That will cover all vac hoses. Extra 3.5mm might be needed. I've used a lot of that. I'm sure I ordered too much, I still haven't used it much. I just do it when needed. The hoses by the green test port are 8, at least this particular 8mm is perfect and fits the keepers just right. I can't remember what I bought the 4mm for. I think the power steering pump valve. 3.5 fits but 4 would be better.
I bought from here, I was thinking the 3.5 needed better wall thickness so I checked into that sort of. maybe fear of collapsing, idk if it would. If they call it vac hose you'd think it should stand up, but who knows. I haven't had any problems. That stuff will never break unless it gets cut.
That will cover all vac hoses. Extra 3.5mm might be needed. I've used a lot of that. I'm sure I ordered too much, I still haven't used it much. I just do it when needed. The hoses by the green test port are 8, at least this particular 8mm is perfect and fits the keepers just right. I can't remember what I bought the 4mm for. I think the power steering pump valve. 3.5 fits but 4 would be better.
I bought from here, I was thinking the 3.5 needed better wall thickness so I checked into that sort of. maybe fear of collapsing, idk if it would. If they call it vac hose you'd think it should stand up, but who knows. I haven't had any problems. That stuff will never break unless it gets cut.
Jerry- Thank you for the full detail. Vac lines will be one of my winter projects.
Three weeks later and no pending/active codes. Replacing the gas cap with an OEM one from toyota did the trick (I think it was $25-30). Easy fix.
I bought one from Rock Auto. Don't recall the number, they have pictures next to the parts of these. Just match it up, it's used on a bunch of different Toyotas.
