Charcoal Cannister Valve

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So do you think change the vacuum lines is all that was needed?
In my case, based on the codes and the transient fuel smell, and my experience with similar issues on another Toyota truck, I believe the VSV and vacuum lines were the problems. I think the original purge valve was functioning properly, but I now have a new one, so... Cool for me.

I noted some venting of the canister, when I was changing the VSV and the vacuum lines. I had one vacuum line that was old and crusty, and when I removed the old VSV, it fell off.

Always pays to replace those vacuum lines
 
Anyone ever just replace the valve on their charcoal canister. I just did that and it seems as though it has fixed the problem. I paid $60 dollars for the valve and so far the check engine light has stayed off? I was just wondering if anyone else has taken this route vs replacing the whole thing?

Which part did you use? Assume for $60 it was aftermarket? All the aftermarket ones I have looked at online seem to be missing one vacuum port.

Thanks!
Mark
 
bluesquirrel: since I'm a 2004 guy w. interest in using under hood canister system, can you take a few shots of the engine bay. Want to see if I can accommodate that system.

Same here. 2004. Interested to see how this works out!
 
Sure. I'm not familiar with the tank mounted canisters, but I believe the FSM has part numbers for both types. I'm betting you have some different wiring too.
Blue silicone are the vacuum lines.
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Many thanks.

Do you have the FSM sections that deal with the under hood cannister wiring?

I have the '04 manuals. I will compare to see what kind of mess the swap-ola might lead to (um, mechanical engineer who is electrically challenged.....read "know enough to be dangerous"...to myself:cheers:).
 
I do not have an FSM yet. I only know from the pictures I have seen while conversating with the parts guys at my local Toyota dealer.
 
Update.
After replacement of listed parts: vsv, vacuum purge valve, and all vacuum lines in the evap system.

I have noted an increase in fuel mileage. I've yet to calculate, but my driving range has increased per mile, a noticeable amount. No driving behavior changes
 
Replaced my VSV and cap, checked vac lines are good, no change. Vac purge valve passed function test in Techstream, Icould hear it open and close.

It still does not properly vent when partially full, idling, or on a hot day. I've got a 5-pound container of fish-tank-filter charcoal waiting in my garage to do the canister re-fill next.
 
^could the cause potentially be your vapor pressure sensor?
 
Update.
After replacement of listed parts: vsv, vacuum purge valve, and all vacuum lines in the evap system.

I have noted an increase in fuel mileage. I've yet to calculate, but my driving range has increased per mile, a noticeable amount. No driving behavior changes
That is interesting. By how much? Was this one full tank or more, and any change to driving habit?
 
That is interesting. By how much? Was this one full tank or more, and any change to driving habit?
I've noticed the change over the last 1000 miles, about 70/30 split driving city/highway. I have not changed my driving habbits. I'm going to calculate on my next fill up. I was at 14-14.5 MPG.
@jerryb I used silicone hoses I picked up from Amazon
 
@bluesquirrel I will follow your lead. I need to do this ASAP as its hot and if I drive for more that 30 minutes the pressure in my fuel tank and the smell is crazy. I will order and replace vsv, vacuum purge valve, and all vacuum lines in the evap system and see if that fixes the problem. Maybe a new fuel cap as well. Trying to avoid buying a new canister if possible. FYI - I've han no engine light issues.
 
@bluesquirrel I will follow your lead. I need to do this ASAP as its hot and if I drive for more that 30 minutes the pressure in my fuel tank and the smell is crazy. I will order and replace vsv, vacuum purge valve, and all vacuum lines in the evap system and see if that fixes the problem. Maybe a new fuel cap as well. Trying to avoid buying a new canister if possible. FYI - I've han no engine light issues.
Cutting the canister open, replacing the charcoal, and resealing it was a single afternoon job.
 
What did you use to reseal it? I have one open and ready to refill but have been searching for the right sealer. I wanted to use some kind of silicon so I can reopen it one day but apparently it doesn’t work well with gasoline. JB weld is good with gasoline but will make reopening it again one day much harder. I’m currently driving with an AC Delco canister.
 

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