Charcoal Canister Modification- need help (5 Viewers)

[cartercd]

Thanks all for the advice on repairing the OEM canister. I found that rotating the canister on a belt sander is a quick and clean way to remove the overlapping lip of the top piece. Once that is done, some gentle prying along the circumference of the top piece allows it to be separated. I cleaned the check valve with brake cleaner, used the majority of a 22 oz box of charcoal for the refill, and applied JB Weld to the lip upon re-assembly. Should be good for another 15 years.

 

[Nbest]

I figured out how to open the charcoal canister so you could theoretically refill it as many times as you want! Basically, the top closes like a paint can or an old school jar of rubber cement. The only difference is that its folded over and crimped to the canister. To remove it, simply grind the crimp down, gently tap a knife between the top and the canister, and then tap it open with a hammer and screwdriver. It's not super pretty, but it should reseal by just tapping the top down. I'll probably apply a little fuel resistant RTV or something like that to help with the seal.

First picture is starting to grind the crimp down. I put masking tape on the sides and over the valves to keep shavings out. I used a hand file, but a flap wheel would probably be the ideal tool.

The next picture shows the line you're trying to grind all the way around.

The third picture shows the bottom of the crimp being pulled off.

Thanks for the upload. So I followed your lead and grinded off the lid, replaced the charcoal and filter paper. Reassembled and sealed it with RTV. I sprayed brake cleaner and compress air into the tank valve. How easy was it to blow through port? I was able to move air, but I felt like it was still difficult. Just wondering if I need to keep trying to loosen the check valve?

 

[bloc]

If one wanted to replace the filter paper, is there something easily attainable that will hold up to the fuel vapors?

 

[Rifleman]

Well i did the rebuild on my factory CC today, but instead of grinding the roll seam all the way off, i chucked the CC into an engine lathe and machined the roll seam just enough to get the top off. Using the engine lathe worked out very well, i got a nice even lip all the way around the body of the CC. Since i was left with a 1/32 inch lip sticking up from the body of the CC, i was able to fab a 1/2 inch wide band clamp to slide up flush to that lip (kind of like a hose clamp) to hold the CC lid in place. With the band clamp bolted in place it can't slip off past that lip on the body. Then i welded 2 small "L" brackets on to the band clamp going over the top of the lid, there is now no way for the lid to "POP" off. The nice thing about using this band clamp instead of J B weld, is if i ever need to take the CC apart again, all i need to do is remove the band clamp, and just pop the lid off.

 

[Rifleman]

If one wanted to replace the filter paper, is there something easily attainable that will hold up to the fuel vapors?

I read on the web that you can use paper coffee filters as a replacement, that's what I used on my rebuild. All i did was to use the old filters as a pattern to cut the new filters.

 

[Kernal]

Can you post up some photos of your charcoal canister mod along with details on the band clamp, brand, size, part number, etc?

 

[gsdog2]

Can someone post up how to check the CC and VSV per the FSM. Thanks.

 

[Rifleman]

Can you post up some photos of your charcoal canister mod along with details on the band clamp, brand, size, part number, etc?

Kernal, i made the "clamp band" from some left over Stainless Steel pipe i had in my shop. I just took the 5 inch O.D. pipe, and cut off a piece about 1/2 inch long, then cut a section out of it, welded on 2 pieces of angle for the bolt to clamp to, and then welded on the "L" brackets made from stainless Steel angle. Here are some photos, all in all a very simple design, but if you have any questions just ask.

 

[Rifleman]

Can someone post up how to check the CC and VSV per the FSM. Thanks.

Here is the info you wanted, it's from my 1994 service manual.

 

[Kernal]

Rifleman: you got skills, thanks for photos.

 

[Rifleman]

Rifleman: you got skills, thanks for photos.

Kernal thanks, having a complete machine shop at home along with a 310 Amp Tig welder helps out when building stuff like this too.

 

[cruiserhound]

This is a pretty old thread but I am curious about cutting or grinding into the charcoal canister. I read the entire thread and didn't see any mention of explosions. Isn't there a high likelihood of the canister exploding? Am I missing something here, it doesn't seem very safe?

 

[Rifleman]

When i cut mine open i did it on an engine lathe, so there were no sparks, but i do understand your concern. I've read many threads here on Mud by other members who have both ground, and cut theirs open, so far there's been no reports of fires, or explosions.

 

[DARKNESS]

I can confirm mine didn't explode. I used a hand file which did not generate any sparks that I could tell. I also ran a crapload of air through it to try and flush as much of the vapor as possible. Maybe filling it with water might be an additional safety factor? No way for gas vapor to build up if the void space is all filled with water.

 

[Rudster]

This is a pretty old thread but I am curious about cutting or grinding into the charcoal canister. I read the entire thread and didn't see any mention of explosions. Isn't there a high likelihood of the canister exploding? Am I missing something here, it doesn't seem very safe?

I used a grinder and am still a live to tell this story

 

[DARKNESS]

I used a grinder and am still a live to tell this story

If you grind the lip apart the sparks never have a chance to get into the container assuming you plug the ports. Different story if you broadside it.

 

[Gabriel 71]

Grinder here as well no third degree and no gas fumes in the canister think about it if your check ball was stuck it wouldn't vent the gas tank anyway thus no gasoline in canIster

 

[Woofythewolf]

I used a vertical belt sander w/80 grit and it threw sparks.
However, I also blew a LOT of air through it (like 2 minutes worth) until I could no longer smell any fumes from the bottom

I'm thinking of swapping hoses- my "tank valve" has no resistance to sucking, but takes 60 psi to force open when applying pressure. purge valve goes both ways no resistance.

This way the tank can push air in and out to vent through the carbon, and the intake manifold can suck air in with no resistance.
-Only potential flaw is that since the tank will be on the "purge" port which offers no resistance either way, it will have a slight vacuum trying to collapse the tank. the bottom vent should prevent this but it's trying to equalize through the carbon, paper, etc., so there may be 1-2 psi of vacuum on the tank.

edit: the carbon i used was this:

Amazon.com : API Activated Filter Carbon, Half Gallon Carton, Net Weight 22-Ounce : Aquarium Filter Accessories : Pet Supplies

$11.49 and free 2 day shipping (for prime members)-used about 90% of the 22 oz. container.
grain size was maybe 40-60% larger. (will flow air easier from the bottom vent to the tank)

 

[Woofythewolf]

WARNING: PLUG THE TANK VENT LINES IF YOU'RE GOING TO HAVE IT OFF FOR A FEW DAYS.

I lit my engine bay on fire: I was waiting for the paint around the rim to harden (just used rustoleum enamel to make sure it didn't rust) and since nothing seemed to be coming from the lines I didn't plug them.

When I went to start it today after reinstalling the canister, all the fuel vapors that vented from the line ignited and blew up in a flash fire. It started at the ignition coil and went all over that side of the engine and underneath.

Ignition source: I took off the wire from the coil to the cap and rotor (just finished putting on a new cylinder head and wanted to turn it over enough to get oil pressure before I started it), and I believe it arced to the nearest ground (intake manifold or ground wire of the coil plug). I should've unplugged the 12v side of the coil.


Thankfully I was able to put it out within about 15 seconds, so the only damage is the oil level sensor wiring got burned-it was the last area to get put out. (and fire extinguisher dust EVERYWHERE, even inside the cap/rotor, fuse boxes, etc).
Also note that the fireproof hood lining covering (the black fabric) will ignite and melt, leaving little pieces of burning melted plastic stuck to a lot of stuff in the engine bay. leaves a nasty black residue even when you pick off the cooled/hardened plastic.


This was in a shop that never exceeded 75 degrees over the several days. I did not think the fuel would be vaporizing that much in those temperatures. Not to mention it was 3 month old fuel so a lot of the volatile compounds should've evaporated already.

 

[Rifleman]

Dam, this is just some plane bad luck, here you were all worried about grinding on your charcoal canister, worried that it might catch fire, and then this happens, SMH. On a different note, what happened to you with this engine fire is the very reason i carry a Halon extinguisher, instead of a dry chemical. When you discharge a Halon extinguisher, you don't have all that dam dust to clean up.