Exactly the same for belts on those years.
Changing your belts in 25 minutes (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter IdahoDoug
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Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Some 13-odd yrs later & IDK how many belt changes across all 3 1FZ’s I’ve had/have, still usually dig this up to refresh.
—— People really pull the fan, hunh?
Actually the battery box & battery seem more odd, but I really hate jobs that have me slung over the radiator so long like the fan pull / fan clutch work.
-job people make into a chore, I guess.
—— People really pull the fan, hunh?
Actually the battery box & battery seem more odd, but I really hate jobs that have me slung over the radiator so long like the fan pull / fan clutch work.
-job people make into a chore, I guess.
Thanks!
Admittedly, since I'm still getting to know my ol' gal, I did pull these only to get a lay of the surrounding area and also improve my recent replacement charcoal canister situational buffer from my wiring harness. Plus, I can definitely see the bolts a ton better.Some 13-odd yrs later & IDK how many belt changes across all 3 1FZ’s I’ve had/have, still usually dig this up to refresh.
—— People really pull the fan, hunh?
Actually the battery box & battery seem more odd, but I really hate jobs that have me slung over the radiator so long like the fan pull / fan clutch work.
I think next time I'll leave things be and just get er done much quicker. Waiting for my Toyota belt kit from Wits End which I debated too long on but I'm in no rush, so...
60wag
SILVER Star
The quick belt change, very simple:
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
If I tried that, the screwdriver would be stuck in the ceiling and I’d be short 2 or 3 fingers.
Changed my belts today, could have been done in about forty minutes, but I did some extensive cleaning. There was a lot of gunk, from the residuals of my leaking power steering pump. (Which I swapped out several months ago).
Dirt Ferguson
SILVER Star
That VW video borders on parody.
chunking through this one based upon a link kindly supplied by another inmate.
i had to look up the crows foot socket things and also the ratcheting 12mm (or 14mm for the LX 450 i guess)? anyway will a stubby snap on work in this location for the alternator pulley? and can i put some kind of rubber hose protection on that thing and use an extension on it? or is this a Very Bad Idea for a nice little snap on stubby socket wrench?
2. how many lock nuts? anyone goes a picture of them? do they take wrenches? torx "inner" or "outer" sockets? anyone got a picture of where they are?
3. lastly for parts left to right it is (?)
AC pulley
AC tensioner pulley
water pump/fan clutch pulley
crank pulley
tensioner pulley (with lock nut)
- is this one also called the idler pulley i guess?
alternator pulley
4. also. can any of the real wrenches on here explain to me when i am using a 12 point versus a 6 point socket? 12 point will let me get a ratchet or breaker bar or extension on it a little easier in a tight space. but a six point is less likely to slip and round the head? or what please?
i had to look up the crows foot socket things and also the ratcheting 12mm (or 14mm for the LX 450 i guess)? anyway will a stubby snap on work in this location for the alternator pulley? and can i put some kind of rubber hose protection on that thing and use an extension on it? or is this a Very Bad Idea for a nice little snap on stubby socket wrench?
2. how many lock nuts? anyone goes a picture of them? do they take wrenches? torx "inner" or "outer" sockets? anyone got a picture of where they are?
3. lastly for parts left to right it is (?)
AC pulley
AC tensioner pulley
water pump/fan clutch pulley
crank pulley
tensioner pulley (with lock nut)
- is this one also called the idler pulley i guess?
alternator pulley
4. also. can any of the real wrenches on here explain to me when i am using a 12 point versus a 6 point socket? 12 point will let me get a ratchet or breaker bar or extension on it a little easier in a tight space. but a six point is less likely to slip and round the head? or what please?
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I don't recall having an issue reaching these bolts with my flex head ratchet. It will be easier to access if you pull the battery and battery box.
As for terminology the pulley on the lower right is the "idler" and its only purpose is to keep the belts from bouncing around (some people run without this). The tension for this belt occurs by pivoting the alternator until the belt is tight.
As for terminology the pulley on the lower right is the "idler" and its only purpose is to keep the belts from bouncing around (some people run without this). The tension for this belt occurs by pivoting the alternator until the belt is tight.
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two more? was the bolt at the crank really 46mm? maybe i misread their and i need to get a caliper on it.
also i couldn't suite see the boot with the torx? it is in one of the tensioner assemblies (i guess rhere are rei and in both cases you need to loosen the idler bolts?).
also sort of interested in knowing if it is best to use a 6 point on whichever is the nasty bolt that a lot of people have trouble with. i guess it is the one at the alternator? i couldn't quite tell actually.
To replace the belts just loosen the bolt on the alternator, and the bolt on the AC tensioner. No need to mess with the crank pulley or idler.
Once the new belts are on reinstall the fan (if you removed it) before adjusting the tension.
Six point sockets are usually the better choice if you have them available. Spraying the bolts in advance with PB blaster or other penetrant will help.
Once the new belts are on reinstall the fan (if you removed it) before adjusting the tension.
Six point sockets are usually the better choice if you have them available. Spraying the bolts in advance with PB blaster or other penetrant will help.
Ratcheting box end wrenches should really only be used for removing hardware after breaking it loose with an appropriate tool. Once the fastener is broken loose than most techs will switch to the ratcheting box end wrench. This is why ratcheting box end wrenches are 12 point, it just makes it easier to engage the fastener and remove it.
Also, as a previous Snap On dealer I will say that you should never be afraid to use a Snap On tool however you see fit. You pay for the customer service and lifetime warranty when you buy Snap On for this very reason.
gents, i read through and marked up this thread this morning and plan to read the FSM tomorrow. would anyone mind helping me label the various BOLTS that need to be loosened and then tightened? i think i got a pretty good sense of the order for the belts in the OP and joeys post on the order of the bolts is helpful. but i really like to have sort of a visual cheat sheet. hopefully if i can make a clear drawing or two it could be helpful to others i think.
basically i want to see if i can identify the bolts based upon looking down or looking up and i can't see it very well right now.
also i am having trouble understanding where the "lock nuts" are. one has a female torx head? and the other is shown here?
basically i want to see if i can identify the bolts based upon looking down or looking up and i can't see it very well right now.
also i am having trouble understanding where the "lock nuts" are. one has a female torx head? and the other is shown here?
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anybody able to identify the various pulleys but also the bolts i need to get to (!) from these views? apologies for the multiple pics i just want to make sure i get them all so i can try to condense it down into a better cheat sheet for myself. right now i can't figure out what the heck i need to remove.
THANKS
Just read the FSM while you're looking at the truck. It's two adjusting bolts and one "lock" bolt. And loosen the alternator pivot bolt. Four things. That's it. Seriously. You don't have to post a ton of pictures and label everything.
Once you start you'll figure it out, like he said only a few things to loosen
Oh and you had some tools listed above but i've never had to use anything special on this. Just basic stuff
Oh and you had some tools listed above but i've never had to use anything special on this. Just basic stuff
