Back to regular program ... Instead of creating one more thread I'll add to this one with my experience and procedure that I used. Some of this stuff was already covered some is different some may be controversial for some. It is particular to my truck. Looks like there are some very small variations between years.
Anyway,
here it goes for a 2013 LX. For pictures, please see previous posts.
Parts:
Toyota 9091901191, 90919-01191; 90919A1002; 90919T1006 Engine Spark plug (they are Denso plugs actually)
Denso SK20HR11 Stock 3421
NGK Iridium IX LFR6AIX-11 Stock 6619
I ordered Toyota plugs but they messed up and sent me plugs for a Camry. I found that after opening the engine so I had to run to local auto parts and get Denso plugs.
Torques [nm/ft.lbs]:
Spark plug 21/15
Coil bolts (x8) 10/7
Air cleaner box bolts (x3) 5/44in.lbf
Air cleaner hose clamps (x2) 5/44in.lbf
Water by-pass RH pipe assembly to head cover rear bolts (2x 12mm head) 18/13
Water by-pass RH pipe assembly to head cover mid way bolt (10mm head) 10/7
Water by-pass RH pipe assembly to timing chain cover bolt (10mm head) 10/7
FSM
RepairManual-RM19F0U-EngineHybridSystem-2013.pdf page 116
Procedure
Lower suspension to LO
Start with the RH firewall plug #8 cylinder, as it is the more time consuming but it is the easiest of the two sides.
Remove covers
Remove undercovers - Not needed unless you drop something
Remove the air cleaner hose and flip it over the engine - do not disconnect any wires or hoses.
Remove the air cleaner box top and flip it over the engine - do not disconnect any wires or hoses.
Remove the air cleaner box bottom 3x 10mm head screws
Disconnect the engine harness from the firewall bracket - do not unplug the harness
Disconnect the water by-pass pipe assembly from the engine:
Remove the 2x bolts 10mm heads, and disconnect the water by-pass pipe from the cylinder head cover (on the side, past middle engine) and timing chain cover (in front next to the thermostat housing).
Remove the 2x bolts 12mm heads around #8 plug, and disconnect the water by-pass pipe from the cylinder head cover. Manual say to disconnect a 3rd bolt on the transmission, but it was not needed.
Blow the area around the sparkplugs with compressed air to remove any lose dirt
One sparkplug at a time:
Disconnect coil electrical connector - I had to use a pick to release the clip with one hand and work the plug out with the other
Remove coil by twisting it - on some plugs locations the pipes/hoses/wires may need to be pushed around, coil may need to be rotated to clear stuff. Hold on the coil rubber gasket as it might be stuck to the valve cover. Do not drop it. Do not lose it.
Blow hole and around it w/ compressed air
Remove spark - I used a magnetic sparkplug socket with integrated extension
Mark the cylinder # with a pen on the spark
Inspect the spark condition for abnormal conditions
Install new spark - I used a very light coat of antiseize grease from the base half inch toward tip and reduced torque to 19Nm. Do not fill in the threads with grease; use your gloved fingernail or a tool to remove any excess. Rotate the spark by hand counterclockwise until you feel a "drop" on the tool - that is the start of the thread, then reverse direction and thread in the spark by hand. With the little antiseize grease it should be smooth as butter going all the way in by hand.
Apply dielectric grease inside the coil rubber hood that goes over the spark insulator using a Q-tip
Push the coil gasket all the way onto the coil past the two holding ridges. The gasket position is with the flat side toward coil and ridge side toward valve cover
Install coil and bolt (10mm head, longer, no washer), hand tight
Torque all the coil bolts w/ 10mm socket
Reconnect coil electrical connectors:
Blow w/ air the coil electrical connector, both halves
Apply dielectric grease
Plug the connector making sure you hear the click.
Bolt on the water by-pass pipe assembly:
Install the midway cylinder head cover bolt but leave it very lose to just provide support to the pipe
Install the timing chain cover bolt hand tight
Install the rear 2x bolts (12mm heads) hand tight
Torque all bolts starting from front of the engine back
Clip engine electrical harness back on its firewall bracket
Install air box
Install air hose
If you need a break to drive the truck to shopping or pickup kids, now it is a good time.
Move to the left side spark plugs. It looks easier but it is harder than the right side due to clearance.
Disconnect the electrical harness from the bracket - mid engin location
View attachment 3379609
Remove the top of the fuse box
Release the top electrical harness coming to the fuse box from the box case. Just press with a small screwdriver the clips inside the harness holes (see arrows) while pulling up, one at a time.
The actual sparkplugs replacement procedure is the same but there are a few notes …
The AC pipes and brake stuff are getting in the way and if you have a longer magnetic socket extension it will not fit on at least 2 of the spark plugs. You'll need a backup plan. I used a regular sparkplug socket that has a rubber insert but no extension. It works fine for removal. For install I had to use a piece of rubber glove (a finger) between extension and the socket to make extension not detach from the socket when pulling out as the socket rubber insert makes the socket stuck on the plug.
Even if you can get the magnetic socket in, it might not be easy to start the spark thread straight. The backup plan is to use the same method as above to start the plug but insert the plug into the socket very little to prevent it being stuck. After starting the thread, remove the socket and insert the magnetic one to finish the plug.
Clip the electrical harness back
Clip the fuse box harness back and close the box (good time to blow the dirt out of that box with compressed air)
Test the engine running, look for errors or codes
Install the covers on top
Install the undercovers if removed.
