Change Those Heater Tees! (2 Viewers)

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Got a part number or link to those??

Pretty expensive at $57.04 a piece. But I get them cheaper through work. If you really want them I can get for you cheaper also. Send me a message.

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Just replaced mine and both crumbled as they were removed from the hoses. Without disturbing them I'm sure they would have kept on ticking for a while, but I'm sure glad I replaced them!
 
Keep in mind that Tee are part of system to connect engine to body. That as we stomp on the gas pedal the engine twist a bit and body doesn't, more so with aged engine mounts. This can pulled apart rotten tees!
 
Did this myself a few months back and I know I had to do a good amount of searching for all the parts. Here's the list I used:

(2) Four Seasons 5/8"x5/8"x1/2" ID Tee Barb Fitting (84543)
(1) Gates Molded Heater Hose (19082)
(1) Gates Molded Heater Hose (18622)
(6) Breeze #10 (9/16"-1 1/16") Constant Torque Clamps

The two hoses need to be cut into pieces to match the bends of the old ones.

Sorry to dig up an old thread but this was really interesting. So you were able to section these two hoses and basically recreate the bends of the OE hoses? Did you run into any sort of fit issues or did everything sit right where it did before? Sure a great idea, looks like it's about a $27 solution vs $100 plus for the toyota hoses, would love to hear more.
 
Sorry to dig up an old thread but this was really interesting. So you were able to section these two hoses and basically recreate the bends of the OE hoses? Did you run into any sort of fit issues or did everything sit right where it did before? Sure a great idea, looks like it's about a $27 solution vs $100 plus for the toyota hoses, would love to hear more.
The only potential hiccup is that there's no extra length on the hoses if your cuts aren't exact, down to the millimeter. If one of your cuts are off, you'll have to massage things a little to fit the short hose. For the first time, I'd probably buy an extra set of hoses, just in case. You can always return the ones you don't use.
 
The only potential hiccup is that there's no extra length on the hoses if your cuts aren't exact, down to the millimeter. If one of your cuts are off, you'll have to massage things a little to fit the short hose. For the first time, I'd probably buy an extra set of hoses, just in case. You can always return the ones you don't use.

That's really cool, how'd you figure out those hoses would work?
 
Look through ‘mud for a thread on this subject that is specific to the fzj80 series Landcruiser.
Seems all my searches come up with fj100 threads.
Any have a recent link with the latest info for FZJ80 on this?
Thanks
 
Well big thanks for this thread as I changed these out today in preparation for a road trip through the desert this holiday.
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I was going over the fluids and saw dried crusty coolant where the hose meets the t fitting on the one to the right. Went to this forum and got a good feel on what needed to be done. As other have stated the connector basically disintegrated when removing hoses.
Replaced with the Four Seasons 84543 and Gates hoses. I did not replace the 1/2 inch hoses that run to and from the rear heater lines.
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The 28467 Gates hose was used on the drivers (hot side) as it is sold molded with a nice 90 degree elbow and enough hose left over after cutting to run to the firewall after the t-connector. The 3272 hose was cut to size and used on the passenger side.
Here are some picks with the orientation of the screw heads for the worm clamps. I found this orientation to be the best for access to tighten the screw.
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Overall a fairly easy job due to forum input. Also highly recommend flexible hose clamp pliers (Power Tools W80656).
 
Wish I had known about these heater tees sooner. One of mine just went out and left my wife stranded on the side of the road. Fortunately it was in town, could've been worse. It would've been much cheaper to replace them myself than towing it to the dealership and having them fix them.
 
Came upon this thread the hard way. Heater T went in State College this evening at rush hour. White cloud areted me to overheat condition. Shut it down. Hot coolant shooting at the firewall. had it towed to my mechanic. T is probably original. Truck has 210K miles. Going with metal and appreciate the caveat on the clamps. Hopefully am spared a head gasket. Anyone know how many of these on on the truck? Really not a good design. They are an unsupported plastic link over a span of about nine inches.
 
Mine got me in august. For anyone reading this be smart. Change them today.
Also... I went with stainless and new hps hoses. Easy swap. View attachment 2488629
Hey, could you put a link to those hoses, or if you know the internal diameter of all? are they all the same size in terms of OD and ID?

or anyone else, what are the sizes of the firewall pipes and the engine side pipes?
 
I always use Jubilee hose clips, this the reason why.

Here is an excerpt from their web site. Browse Jubilee® Clip products

The original Jubilee® Clip, the product that started it all! For the vast majority of applications this sturdy worm drive hose clip is more than suitable. Available as a mild steel zinc protected or stainless steel clamp in both 304 (18/8) and 316 (18/10) grades of stainless steel; this product also has a band that is continuously threaded enabling extra flexibility when adjusting the clip to the correct size. The smooth inside profile of the band and rolled edges give protection for all types of hoses including soft hoses made from rubber or silicone.

All our original Jubilee® Clips are independently tested by the British Standards Institute (BSi) and carry the British Standard Kitemark™, which is universally regarded as the most stringent standard there is for a hose clip. Both grades of stainless steel clips are also accredited by Lloyds Register for marine use.
 
Hey, could you put a link to those hoses, or if you know the internal diameter of all? are they all the same size in terms of OD and ID?

or anyone else, what are the sizes of the firewall pipes and the engine side pipes?


Always had good luck with silicon on fleet service vehicles. The will weap some in very high heat months but we are talking about maybe a splash of coolant a months worth. I know it’s not OEM and that is against the Red Letters around here! But a million or so miles a year for the last 10 years spread out over all my service trucks tells me they work alright. And HPS bends and lengths have always been some of the most accurate to fac spec in my experience. I replaced 14 runs of rubber on my LX with HPS and maybe trimmed an inch in total. As for the worm clamps... old habits I guess but again, lots and lots of miles of hanging on tight tell me they work ok.
 

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