Change Those Heater Tees!

[RyanStl]

I find it funny that people don't just replace the T's with the Mr. T part. It lasts at least 150K miles, so if you want a more permanent solution; meaning you want the piece to last over 150k more miles, why bother with something that isn't proven?

 

[Flipped Bezel]

I find it funny that people don't just replace the T's with the Mr. T part. It lasts at least 150K miles, so if you want a more permanent solution; meaning you want the piece to last over 150k moe miles, why bother with something that isn't proven?

The most likely answer is because those plastic OEM Tees retail for just a couple dollars less than the cost of the stainless versions and are a known weak point of these bulletproof vehicles. More than a few engines have overheated when this weak link finally gave way unknown to the driver.

The better question that should be asked instead is why in the hell did Mr. T even put these crappy cheap parts that are eventually bound to fail with potentially catastrophic results on these trucks in the first place?

I operate my truck for long periods of times daily in remote locations usually in a climate with hot daytime temperatures for big portions of the year. Personally, I have way more confidence in these aftermarket parts not leaving me in a bind than the more "proven" stock Tees.

 

[hoser]

The better question that should be asked instead is why in the hell did Mr. T even put these crappy cheap parts that are eventually bound to fail with potentially catastrophic results on these trucks in the first place?

These exact T's are shared in many Toyota vehicles including the 80 series, Sequoia and Sienna. I've not heard any problems with them in the 80 series. There is something with the 100, about it's location, engine temp or heating system that kills the T's over time.

 

[viducce]

The results.

View attachment 1659591

Perfect upgrade, I'm planing to do them soon.
Why didn't you use the original clamps, are they to small for the stainless replacement?

 

[hoser]

The Four Season T’s have 5/8” and 1/2” inlet/oulets. The OE hoses are metric. Close enough but not exact.

 

[viducce]

I got these from Germany, they're metric maybe the original clamps will fit..

 

[dsw1020]

View attachment 1660554 I got these from Germany, they're metric maybe the original clamps will fit..

Who did you order these from? Very interested.

 

[viducce]

@dsw1020
Short story, I live in Taiwan and cant get anything like that, so I asked a friend in Germany to search for stainless T pieces and that's what he
came up with.

 

[6LCJ7]

I find it funny that people don't just replace the T's with the Mr. T part. It lasts at least 150K miles, so if you want a more permanent solution; meaning you want the piece to last over 150k moe miles, why bother with something that isn't proven?

I find it funny that you find it funny. They should last forever as long you keep up with coolant changes.

 

[fooldall1]

Perfect upgrade, I'm planing to do them soon.
Why didn't you use the original clamps, are they to small for the stainless replacement?

Well, basically two reasons: 1. I hate Spring Clamps. 2. The original hose was a little stretched because the previous owner used Aftermarket heater tees which were 5/8 all the way around- the sides are 5/8 and the down is 1/2 on OEM (I believe) so the hose was stretched on the bottom, and I can't visually stand mixing clamp types. The worm clamps make me feel like I can create a REALLY good seal on that hose as well. Since it's stainless, it won't crush the plastic.

 

[fooldall1]

Where did you source the stainless tee?

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DCNGIS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

BY the way- the nails comment made me laugh, You're right- bad habit from my youth.

 

[DuckLN]

There is a long standing thread on heater t’s. - use the search its easy to find.

Fyi - plenty of pics and part numbers and alternative solutions from folks that have spent many hours reaearching metallurgy and ph and all that jazz.

 

[dace voit]

These exact T's are shared in many Toyota vehicles including the 80 series, Sequoia and Sienna. I've not heard any problems with them in the 80 series. There is something with the 100, about it's location, engine temp or heating system that kills the T's over time.

Where are these used on the 80?

Cross-utilization makes a lot of sense here. It saves them a bunch of money.

I find it funny that you find it funny. They should last forever as long you keep up with coolant changes.

Coolant changes won't keep these from dying. Heat cycling over the years kills plastic parts like this. It appears that newer versions might be even weaker than the older. Whether that's related to the LL => SLL coolant change is up for debate.

 

[hoser]

Where are these used on the 80?

Cross-utilization makes a lot of sense here. It saves them a bunch of money.

1FZ-FE

 

[dace voit]

1FZ-FE

View attachment 1661526

Interesting. I don't remember seeing that on mine when I replaced all the hoses in my engine bay. The hose that attaches to it in the diagram is where I attached my hose when back flushing the heater core. Does the lower line come from the rear heater core?

 

[hoser]

I don’t know off the top of my head. It’s been over 10 years since I had an 80.

 

[fooldall1]

Interesting. I don't remember seeing that on mine when I replaced all the hoses in my engine bay. The hose that attaches to it in the diagram is where I attached my hose when back flushing the heater core. Does the lower line come from the rear heater core?

Maybe the PO capped off the heater hoses?

 

[TLC100]

New 100 owner here - scored a nice 03 a few months back with 132k miles. I did a bunch of baselining all the fluids, filters, etc. and have been driving the heck out of her. I put off the heater T's until today sitting on 149k miles. Glad I didn't wait longer - a piece of one T broke off inside one of the hoses as I was pulling it. Luckily I had the other end of the hose unhooked from the motor. The flared end of the T broke off intact inside the hose - it crumbled as I was trying to get it out.

I chose to use factory plastic replacements and reused the hoses and clamps, figuring I'll put the hoses and T's on my 100k service interval.

 

[spear2]

Just did a 1" body lift today. One of my heater tees broke. The other one didn't because I replaced the bad one like 8yrs ago. I had stainless hose tees from McMaster-Carr waiting to go in:

Had to grind the bottom connector lip a little to fit the smaller stock hose.

 

[TheForger]

Just did a 1" body lift today. One of my heater tees broke. The other one didn't because I replaced the bad one like 8yrs ago. I had stainless hose tees from McMaster-Carr waiting to go in:

View attachment 1764727

Had to grind the bottom connector lip a little to fit the smaller stock hose.

Got a part number or link to those??