CDL switch installed and pin-7 mod'd (1 Viewer)

[ZackR]

As with any locker (regardless of what you read, this includes Harrops and ARB lockers) some speed differential between the two sides being locked may be necessary to get the locker to engage. In the case of the CDL, this means turning while moving. It can take a bit of time for the splines to line up, because there isn't much differential between the two axle speeds even when turning. However, if one of your tires slips, the CDL will immediately engage, just like any other locker (Harrops and ARB's included). The confusing part is that the lights tell you when the locker has actually engaged, rather than whether or not the actuator is engaged.

Before swapping anything, try engaging it and turning a full circle. Also, if you don't have lockers and you verify that the CDL is in fact engaging, the light is only a convenience. If you have factory axle lockers, the light (or at least the signal to the light) is required for them to work. In that case replacing the switch is highly recommended.

As with any locker (regardless of what you read, this includes Harrops and ARB lockers) some speed differential between the two sides being locked may be necessary to get the locker to engage. In the case of the CDL, this means turning while moving. It can take a bit of time for the splines to line up, because there isn't much differential between the two axle speeds even when turning. However, if one of your tires slips, the CDL will immediately engage, just like any other locker (Harrops and ARB's included). The confusing part is that the lights tell you when the locker has actually engaged, rather than whether or not the actuator is engaged.

Before swapping anything, try engaging it and turning a full circle. Also, if you don't have lockers and you verify that the CDL is in fact engaging, the light is only a convenience. If you have factory axle lockers, the light (or at least the signal to the light) is required for them to work. In that case replacing the switch is highly recommended.

One thing to add is that the light will need to turn on if you want the ABS to turn off. When my Tcase CDL switch was non functional the CDL would still lock but the dash lights didn't come on and the ABS still worked. Having the ABS off is beneficial on dirt and gravel roads, at least in my opinion.

 

[Proven]

now that my battery has been on the charger for a few nights, I guess I am going to run it out and see if I can get the lights on. I do have a replacement sensor on the way, which is just like taking an umbrella.

Really do appreciate the discussion.

 

[RoaringFork]

It seems lots of people have issues with this switch...

The switch is on the passenger side the tcase at about 1oclock if looking from the rear. It’s a 2 wire switch, if you locate it, remove the connector and jump the terminials in the connector. Fire up the truck and see if the yellow ABS and CDL lights come on...

I said earlier I had a broken wire to my switch, check for that too...

I ordered a connector and wires from Toyota, but wanted to wheel before they arrived... I just jumped the circuit when I got to the trail head, temp fix!!!

 

[ZackR]

Yeah its kinda hard to find. From the passenger side its toward the top in the middle.

 

[LINUS]

FYI in 4 low the CDL and ABS light will come on if everything is working correctly. There is no separate light for 4 low.

@Proven - above is the default setup, so when you had no CDL switch (or pin-7 mod) - you should have seen the CDL & ABS lights in the lower row on the cluster light up to confirm you were locked in the TC, and ABS was defeated while in 4L.

So for some reason, you need to either just excercise the CDL actuator, 2x check the position switch, etc.

:::Someone can correct me if I'm spouting stupid, but we have a CDL locked liht too, that acts exactly like the diff locker pair (blink pending, steady locked)???:::

The CDL switch isn’t a simple switch...

In factory configuration(no pin 7) with just a CDL switch installed, the low range signal will still “go through” the CDL and lock the center diff just by putting the transfer case in low. The pin 7 mod. prevents the tcase module from ever seeing this signal. However the CDL switch will send a “lock center diff” signal to a different wire on the tcase module.

If you do CDL switch only you get center diff lock in high range

If you do pin 7 only you can no longer lock the center diff

If you do pin 7 and CDL, you get lock and unlock in high and low range. As well as axle locker(if equipped) in high range...

This too - or simply stated, you can control locking or open TC in both 4H or 4L, and diff lockers being active in H range in the TC. If you do both mods.

Exactly as you stated, I use 4L with open CDL on our boat launches - but with both mods it simply shifts the TC case w/o me getting any lights or further actions in the driveline.

 

[fz1boxer]

tag

 

[RoaringFork]

When then center diff is engaged properly...

 

[RoaringFork]

...on an fzj80


...an FJ80 looks different. no abs light, center diff light more center/right

 

[ajax1]

Pull the connector and put a jumper in it now cycle the switch, light should come on if it doesn't you have bad wire or burnt light bulb, if it comes on your sensor needs cleaned or replace

 

[Malleus]

x2

This is what it looked like from the factory

 

[RoaringFork]

^^^^That’s the jumper plug for the CDL switch connector...

@Proven needs to jumper the connector at the low range switch on the tcase. Then fire the truck up, drive it a little and operate the CDL switch

 

[Proven]

@ZackR @LINUS @RoaringFork

I received my new sensor today, so of course I swapped it out. What a BUGGER to get to that thing!!

4H with CDL switch activated.

I also saw another light I’ve never seen before. A/T P:

I like that there is a light for when the truck is in "Go nowhere mode."

 

[Proven]

Also, I did test the old sensor and it read zero open and closed. I cycled it a bunch of times and saw nothing at all.

Is it safe to put contact cleaner on that thing?

 

[clx16]

I think the A/T P light comes one when you have your T/C shifter in Neutral or you do something crazy like me and have move the auto trans shifter to a location other than park to while starting it. Looking at your picture, I would assume the first scenario. Of course I my memory fails more and more everyday so I could be wrong.

 

[Malleus]

Also, I did test the old sensor and it read zero open and closed. I cycled it a bunch of times and saw nothing at all.

Is it safe to put contact cleaner on that thing?

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Plastic-Contact-Cleaner-Aerosol/dp/B000BXKZVA

I use this for all electrical components. Have had no problems.

It's available at HD and Lowes, too.

 

[RoaringFork]

@ZackR @LINUS @RoaringFork

I received my new sensor today, so of course I swapped it out. What a BUGGER to get to that thing!!

4H with CDL switch activated.
View attachment 1610122


I also saw another light I’ve never seen before. A/T P:
View attachment 1610121

I like that there is a light for when the truck is in "Go nowhere mode."

Nice work!!!


Looks like you got it all sorted out...

Now it’s time to enjoy a locking center diff!!

Contact cleaner won’t hurt, especially if the switch is all brokey... maybe it’ll bring it back to life!!!

 

[cowboy roscoe]

Hello,

My first post here.

I have been thinking that if I am willing to live with the shift-point adjustment associated with low range, a simple jumper switch the shorts the low-range sensor switch would allow the use of CDL in both hi and lo ranges. This would be accomplished without any modification to the stock relay (pin 7) or harness.

Has anyone performed such a mod?

Thanks.

 

[-Spike-]

Hello,

My first post here.

I have been thinking that if I am willing to live with the shift-point adjustment associated with low range, a simple jumper switch the shorts the low-range sensor switch would allow the use of CDL in both hi and lo ranges. This would be accomplished without any modification to the stock relay (pin 7) or harness.

Has anyone performed such a mod?

Thanks.

Yep. Simply disconnect a plug at the transfer case and install a CDL switch. You'd have to do a search on exactly which plug to disconnect, but it was the only way to have the CDL be user-controlled in both high and low range before the advent of the 7-pin mod. Board member Tools R Us has posted about it, so use his name in a search.