T-Case CDL Position Switch plug wiring? (1 Viewer)

[98 SNAKE EATER]

1997 TLC
Factory Locked
CDL Switch
7-Pin mod

I was out at the beach earlier today and wanted to exercise all 3 lockers as I usually do

Hit the CDL switch and heard the relay click in the kick panel, but the light on the dash didn't light up instantly like it usually does

Turned it off, then on again and heard the click, drove a few yards while turning and I could tell the center diff was definitely locked due to the driveline binding up, but still no light

Kept driving and hit some bumps on purpose to shake things up and all of a sudden the light came on, but it started flickering on and off (sumthin it's never done before)

Crawled underneath to check the plug on the CDL position switch/sensor and one of the wires had broken off of the plug

It was like deja vu cause I had the same thing happen to the trans temp sensor recently after pressure washing the undercarriage (doh!!)

I wanted to order a new pigtail, so I tried pulling the plug to snap a pic and ended up breaking the other wire as well (both kinda brittle)

Appears to be the same plug used on the trans temp sensor and I already have it on order for tomorrow

Thing is, I don't know which wire goes where on the plug since both broke flush on the connector

Since it appears to be a basic switch, I'm assuming it wouldn't really matter either way as it just needs to complete the circuit, but does anyone happen to have a wiring diagram handy so I don't goof things up when soldering tomorrow?

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Ok, it appears I was mistaken

After checking out another CDL thread, I stumbled upon this pic of a T-case

The pigtail I need is for the Neutral Position Switch, not the CDL switch

Just crawled underneath again to confirm the CDL switch plug is ok and it is, but then I noticed a loose wire on the Low Range Position switch

Pulled that plug and other wire on that one snapped off flush too

Ordered a pigtail for that one as well, but same dilemma with the wiring as to which one goes where on the connector

That being said, since I already have the 7-pin, is the low range position switch circuit even necessary

 

[Fj80oregon]

If you download the EWD manual from the resource section it will have the connector pin outs in it. Not sure about your low range position switch but I would think you want it all connected up just so it doesn’t get forgotten about.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

If you download the EWD manual from the resource section it will have the connector pin outs in it. Not sure about your low range position switch but I would think you want it all connected up just so it doesn’t get forgotten about.

I've been sifting through the EWD for over an hour, but can't seem to find direct pin outs on the center diff page (#152)

Gunna repair with a new pigtail regardless of whether or not it still used

 

[ppc]

That being said, since I already have the 7-pin, is the low range position switch circuit even necessary

Yes, with the pin 7 mod the 4Low position sensor is just decorative. The Neutral position will have no bearing on the function of the lockers center, front or rear. The CDL sensor is the only critical one. Yes, they are just simple switches, makes no difference on polarity. They function by switching the circuit to ground.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Yes, with the pin 7 mod the 4Low position sensor is just decorative. The Neutral position will have no bearing on the function of the lockers center, front or rear. The CDL sensor is the only critical one. Yes, they are just simple switches, makes no difference on polarity. They function by switching the circuit to ground.

Thanks for the info

If that's that case, I guess I'll be pulling the CDL switch/sensor as well for cleaning and testing.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

BTW, are the CDL and Low Range sensors the same on all years?

I figure I can swap if the CDL is too sticky

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, it's much easier to just crimp new terminals onto the wires and reinsert them into the connector housings. The wires will be 3/8" shorter, but they should have that much slack in them. Ballenger Motorsports has the terminals and seals and should have the connector housings, too.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

FWIW, it's much easier to just crimp new terminals onto the wires and reinsert them into the connector housings. The wires will be 3/8" shorter, but they should have that much slack in them. Ballenger Motorsports has the terminals and seals and should have the connector housings, too.

I do this when I can, but prefer soldering in new pigtails when the space is tight and the original harness is short

It seems all of these connectors have very little excess if any

Had to do this a couple weeks ago with the trans temp sensor which actually had tension on the harness when plugged in

 

[jonheld]

I've been sifting through the EWD for over an hour, but can't seem to find direct pin outs on the center diff page (#152)

The CDL switch is in the lower left corner. Pin 1: BLK/WHT Pin 2: YEL/BLK
As stated, it's a switch. Makes no difference what pin is what.

Pins 82998-12440

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

The CDL switch is in the lower left corner. Pin 1: BLK/WHT Pin 2: YEL/BLK
As stated, it's a switch. Makes no difference what pin is what.

View attachment 3774451

View attachment 3774452

Pins 82998-12440

View attachment 3774453

Great!!

Thanks for confirming

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

OK, while soldering in two new connector pigtails for the Neutral Position Switch and the Low Range Position Switch, I decided to pull all three switches for testing


I cleaned them up, but they were all kinda hit or miss according to my meter, so I replaced both the Low Range (even though it's not being used with Pin 7 mod) and CDL Switches

All appear to be working fine, but I'm gunna order a new Neutral Position Switch as well and throw it in anyways

 

[jonheld]

OK, while soldering in two new connector pigtails for the Neutral Position Switch and the Low Range Position Switch, I decided to pull all three switches for testing
I cleaned them up, but they were all kinda hit or miss according to my meter, so I replaced both the Low Range (even though it's not being used with Pin 7 mod) and CDL Switches
All appear to be working fine, but I'm gunna order a new Neutral Position Switch as well and throw it in anyways

Did you go with OEM or the Beck-Arnley replacements?

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Did you go with OEM or the Beck-Arnley replacements?

Amazon replacements

$10 bucks shipped

Now it all works without delay

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Last day on the beach for the year

Figure I'd check the lights and lockers before heading back down to Florida