alia176
SILVER Star
Which color wires behind the CDL switch are you using for this temp bypass? Wait, sounds like you're going straight to the CDL motor connection under the 80.
CDL Actuator Fun (1 Viewer)
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Can you tell us how you did that? I want to wheel and can't get my CDL to engage.
Is it not engaging when you shift into low?
If not, can you hear the actuator “wining” or attempting to engage?
Reason I ask, is that I’ve had to take CDL actuator off and on a couple times due to the fact I wasn’t hearing any sound or attempt to actuate. I was getting the appropriate voltage at the right terminals if I recall, but the motor wouldn’t turn. Turns out it appeared to be binding on the shaft and didn’t have enough volts/amps to overcome the resistance. There’s a few vids on YouTube for bench testing that may help I’d how to test for your specific concern though.
Not sure that helps but just incase
Thanks I’ll check out the YouTube videos. I have a buddy helping me today as I wasn’t able to hear anything from the cab when working the switch.
There is also a relay behind the kick panel, driver side by ecu. You should hear a click in this relay. I troubleshooted mine. I believe the steps are online. Its fairly simple to test with a 9v battery.
I've determined that both my relay and actuator motor are bad. My switch on the dash results in the relay "clicking" but it never sends power down to the motor for operation. Used jumpers to try to run the actuator motor in either direction but it's seized. Found a used relay on Ebay for $50 and ordered it. I'll be pulling the actuator. Hoping to clean it and get it running. If not there are both cheap and OEM options. I'm curious why the OEM has a hole in the top of it by the wiring entry point and the cheap version does not. I believe the breather tube is visable in these images. I'm going to do whatever I can to seal up the electric motor housing.
Partsouq:
Ebay:
Side note: For me this is a result of getting stuck in deep salt water for 10 minutes. Not recommended! I will be inspecting the breather tube and suspect it's compromised and let in salt water. I had salt water in my transmission and believe it's the same compromised breather tube. I was able to change the fluid on the trail. I'll be running new breathers for this as well as the transfer case & transmission. Will probable run them all up the D pillar with my diff breather. This is a good thread. Check your breathers!
Partsouq:
Ebay:
Side note: For me this is a result of getting stuck in deep salt water for 10 minutes. Not recommended! I will be inspecting the breather tube and suspect it's compromised and let in salt water. I had salt water in my transmission and believe it's the same compromised breather tube. I was able to change the fluid on the trail. I'll be running new breathers for this as well as the transfer case & transmission. Will probable run them all up the D pillar with my diff breather. This is a good thread. Check your breathers!
They both have the hole, but this is not a CDL actuator, it is the one for the front differential
Hi all, I've read this thread, 7-8 other Mud threads, and the George4wd thread and still can't solve this one. I recently swapped in factory locked F/R axles (mine were non-factory locking) and wanted to test out the lockers. When I put it in low, I noticed that the CDL light didn't come on (so I couldn't test the new F/R lockers). I had a CDL switch, so I installed it and did the Pin 7 Mod. I then drove it and could immediately tell the CDL is working.
To make certain, I turned the truck off, turned key to on, and pressed the CDL switch and I CAN hear both the relay in the drivers kick panel area AND the CDL actuator energize.
Next, from my research, the CDL Sensor is usually the problem if it isn't engaged much (this one likely wasn't put in Low Range in 20-years). So, I found the CDL Sensor at the front passenger side of the T-Case, unplugged it, and jumped it with a paper clip. Unfortunately I still get NO CDL or ABS LIGHT. I know the ABS bulb works (it comes on when I first turn on the truck) so it likely isn't the bulbs.
From what I read, most of the time the jump works which means that it's the switch that is the issue (due to not energizing often enough). But no luck on mine.
From what I've read, since I've done the Pin 7 Mod, the L4 switch wouldn't affect this anymore. But, just to make certain, I then found what I think is the L4 switch (same plug type, just opposite side of the T-Case) at the rear passenger side of the T-Case and tried jumping it. No change either...as expected.
From another thread:
"...put a wire link to bridge the CDL switch/sensor connector. That 'should' cause the dash CDL light (and ABS light) to come on. If it doesn't then you have a wiring/harness issue from that connector back to the dash/diff lock ecu..."
I checked the 30Amp Diff fuse in the drivers knee level fuse area and it was fine. I swapped it anyway just in case. I wouldn't think that it would be the CDL Actuator since the CDL is actually working, but could be wrong.
Any ideas on where to look next?
To make certain, I turned the truck off, turned key to on, and pressed the CDL switch and I CAN hear both the relay in the drivers kick panel area AND the CDL actuator energize.
Next, from my research, the CDL Sensor is usually the problem if it isn't engaged much (this one likely wasn't put in Low Range in 20-years). So, I found the CDL Sensor at the front passenger side of the T-Case, unplugged it, and jumped it with a paper clip. Unfortunately I still get NO CDL or ABS LIGHT. I know the ABS bulb works (it comes on when I first turn on the truck) so it likely isn't the bulbs.
From what I read, most of the time the jump works which means that it's the switch that is the issue (due to not energizing often enough). But no luck on mine.
From what I've read, since I've done the Pin 7 Mod, the L4 switch wouldn't affect this anymore. But, just to make certain, I then found what I think is the L4 switch (same plug type, just opposite side of the T-Case) at the rear passenger side of the T-Case and tried jumping it. No change either...as expected.
From another thread:
"...put a wire link to bridge the CDL switch/sensor connector. That 'should' cause the dash CDL light (and ABS light) to come on. If it doesn't then you have a wiring/harness issue from that connector back to the dash/diff lock ecu..."
I checked the 30Amp Diff fuse in the drivers knee level fuse area and it was fine. I swapped it anyway just in case. I wouldn't think that it would be the CDL Actuator since the CDL is actually working, but could be wrong.
Any ideas on where to look next?
Haven’t read whole thing yet but pull ABS fuse and retry. Mine works without ABS fuse.
UPDATE: Solved it. Ended up being the Bulb and the CDL Sensor. Pulled the sensor, cleaned it, and put in a new bulb. CDL & Front Locker now work as expected. Still working on the Rear Locker.
ppc
M Go Blue
What is the status now of the ABS dash light when the CDL started working?
Poor assumption that the CDL bulb was good. Not only did you waste your time but mine and a bunch of others as well
Hey Mudders, when the CDL is actuated and the CDL lock actuator motor is working properly, does the fork in the T case front extension housing move forward or back? I'm reinstalling my T case this weekend, and it was unlocked when I removed it. The lock actuator motor is thus also in the unlocked position.
So, which way should the fork in the front extension housing be installed - forward or back?
Thanks.
So, which way should the fork in the front extension housing be installed - forward or back?
Thanks.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Rearward is disengaged, but I don't think it matters, the motor will find its position when the ECM gets power.
Great, thanks.
Yeah, bad luck here on the CDL after my T case reinstall. I have the EWD for the CDL, but I'm having a hard time understanding it.
I'd like to check the operation of my CDL motor with a 9V battery. I have read that I can connect the 9V battery to the 6 pin plug coming off the CDL actuator motor. If you know, could you tell me what pins I connect to Neg and Pos on the 9V to cycle the actuator? I also don't see an indication on the six pin plug coming off the actuator as to which pin is what number. Could you post a pic or tell me which way they're numbered? Thanks for the help.
EDIT: My actuator motor and the fork in the front extension housing were out of sync. I fixed it by removing the actuator motor (leaving it connected to the harness) and manually locking the center diff by turning the gear sitting under the actuator motor counterclockwise about 1/4 of a turn. While the actuator motor was uninstalled but connected to the harness I actuated it with the dash mounted switch, both to lock and unlock it (making sure it worked in both directions). Then I depressed the CDL switch on the switch, heard the CDL actuator motor run for 1-2 seconds (so that it was in locked mode), and reinstalled in on the top of the T case. Buttoned it back up and all is good.
I'll echo a couple of other comments here. IMHO, the best way to remove the CDL actuator motor while the T case is in the vehicle is to get 2 75mm bolts (10x1.25) and use those to hold up the crossmember. So, you take out the stock four bolts holding the crossmember to the frame rails, and lower the T case so that it is about 1.25 inches lower than normal by having it hang on those 75mm bolts. Before you do that, put your trans in N, so as not to stress the shifting cable. The CDL actuator motor is in there very tight. I think it's prudent to remove the forward switch which sits on top of the T case and right in front of the CDL actuator motor housing. You want that out of the way so you can get a pry bar under the housing that the black metal cap on the front side of the actuator motor is attached to. Then get a pry bar under the meaty part of the CDL actuator motor housing - there's a spot there which is up against the front of the housing and close to the black cap, but not putting pressure on the cap itself.
Once you have the four 12mm bolts out of the top of the CDL actuator motor housing, you can pry under that spot and lift the CDL actuator motor straight up. There are two alignment sleeves in the top of the T case - you have to take the motor straight up, and keep track of those alignment sleeves.
I hope that helps someone. I'm happy to report my CDL is working fine now. T case regear done, everything is all buttoned up.
Cheers.
I'd like to check the operation of my CDL motor with a 9V battery. I have read that I can connect the 9V battery to the 6 pin plug coming off the CDL actuator motor. If you know, could you tell me what pins I connect to Neg and Pos on the 9V to cycle the actuator? I also don't see an indication on the six pin plug coming off the actuator as to which pin is what number. Could you post a pic or tell me which way they're numbered? Thanks for the help.
EDIT: My actuator motor and the fork in the front extension housing were out of sync. I fixed it by removing the actuator motor (leaving it connected to the harness) and manually locking the center diff by turning the gear sitting under the actuator motor counterclockwise about 1/4 of a turn. While the actuator motor was uninstalled but connected to the harness I actuated it with the dash mounted switch, both to lock and unlock it (making sure it worked in both directions). Then I depressed the CDL switch on the switch, heard the CDL actuator motor run for 1-2 seconds (so that it was in locked mode), and reinstalled in on the top of the T case. Buttoned it back up and all is good.
I'll echo a couple of other comments here. IMHO, the best way to remove the CDL actuator motor while the T case is in the vehicle is to get 2 75mm bolts (10x1.25) and use those to hold up the crossmember. So, you take out the stock four bolts holding the crossmember to the frame rails, and lower the T case so that it is about 1.25 inches lower than normal by having it hang on those 75mm bolts. Before you do that, put your trans in N, so as not to stress the shifting cable. The CDL actuator motor is in there very tight. I think it's prudent to remove the forward switch which sits on top of the T case and right in front of the CDL actuator motor housing. You want that out of the way so you can get a pry bar under the housing that the black metal cap on the front side of the actuator motor is attached to. Then get a pry bar under the meaty part of the CDL actuator motor housing - there's a spot there which is up against the front of the housing and close to the black cap, but not putting pressure on the cap itself.
Once you have the four 12mm bolts out of the top of the CDL actuator motor housing, you can pry under that spot and lift the CDL actuator motor straight up. There are two alignment sleeves in the top of the T case - you have to take the motor straight up, and keep track of those alignment sleeves.
I hope that helps someone. I'm happy to report my CDL is working fine now. T case regear done, everything is all buttoned up.
Cheers.
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