- Thread starter
- #21
OK so nothing would be connected to 1 and that would essentailly be an off as well with your layout.
Caveman Dual Battery
- Thread starter Bluetribal
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
OK so nothing would be connected to 1 and that would essentailly be an off as well with your layout.
- Thread starter
- #23
I just thought of something while looking over my diagram again. I have negative ports on the BS 6 circ fuse block. Shouldn't I run a negative wire from the second battery to the fuse block and not just to a ground?
If you ground the fuse block to the frame, then you have a return path no matter which battery you draw power from.
If you plan to only draw power from one battery, then you can ground directly to it, which I think is what you want to do.
If you plan to only draw power from one battery, then you can ground directly to it, which I think is what you want to do.
You will want to run at least a 4AWG cable from the aux battery to the frame for emergency starting purposes, although 2 AWG would be a little better. Once you've done that, you can ground the fuse block at the most convenient spot: body, aux battery, frame, it's all common at that point.
- Thread starter
- #26
Great thanks for the feedback guys. 
- Thread starter
- #27
I have been busy with my CargoDrawer/Sleeper project but I had some time to do some more research on the dual battery project. And I came across this West Marine Battery Combiner PDF. And this combiner seems like a nice security device but not sure it's needed for $115. But the 1 & 4diagrams seem pretty close to my diagram minus the Battery Combiner. But thought I would share since they provide several dual & multiple battery diagrams.
http://www.yandina.com/acrobats/C70Manual.pdf
http://www.yandina.com/acrobats/C70Manual.pdf
Last edited:
Mark,
Looks interesting to me, lots of choices in how to set things up. Plus it makes sure everything is charging.
Wonder what experience people have with it?
Didn't read through in detail, only issue I can think of is what happens when batteries are not closely balanced, but since it acts like a relay and physically switches the connections, maybe it's brute force deals with that?
Looks interesting to me, lots of choices in how to set things up. Plus it makes sure everything is charging.
Wonder what experience people have with it?
Didn't read through in detail, only issue I can think of is what happens when batteries are not closely balanced, but since it acts like a relay and physically switches the connections, maybe it's brute force deals with that?
- Thread starter
- #29
Yeah, if I went with the Battery Combiner I would probably buy the exact same battery that I have now for my second battery insteady of the deep cycle marine battery that I was going to use.
Continuing on Figure 4 had an interesting point stating that the Fuse panel should be within 7" of the 2nd battery. So maybe I should plan on mounting the fuse block on the second battery tray rather than inside the cabin on the passenger dash.
Diagrams 9 / 10 brings up some interesting points on the Alternator outputs.
Continuing on Figure 4 had an interesting point stating that the Fuse panel should be within 7" of the 2nd battery. So maybe I should plan on mounting the fuse block on the second battery tray rather than inside the cabin on the passenger dash.
Diagrams 9 / 10 brings up some interesting points on the Alternator outputs.
Last edited:
Mark Did you finish your project? Based on Steve's suggestion and simple diagram did you flip your batteries and made the deep cycle battery your starting battery with location on the driver's side? (This is how I plan to run mine, figuring that i will run all accessories including winch, and future 12v fridge off my main battery, while keeping the role of the 2nd battery strictly for an emergency self jump start situation. I am in the middle of gathering parts and will follow Boston Mangler's dual battery set up as well. I looked into doing this about 2 years ago but life got in the way. Time to finish it.
How much cable did you buy?
How much cable did you buy?
- Thread starter
- #31
Nope, I haven't started it yet, still finishing up my cargo drawer project and getting ready to go to Baja for the 250 race.
I am considering one of the West Marine diagrams in the PDF in post 27. If I go that route I will get an identical battery to my current battery (DieHard Platinum-2 Group 65).
I got some welding wire from PK80 when I bought his washer bottle relocator bracket but not sure how much but I don't need a lot since I plan to run the wire across the front around & under the radiator.
I am considering one of the West Marine diagrams in the PDF in post 27. If I go that route I will get an identical battery to my current battery (DieHard Platinum-2 Group 65).
I got some welding wire from PK80 when I bought his washer bottle relocator bracket but not sure how much but I don't need a lot since I plan to run the wire across the front around & under the radiator.
- Thread starter
- #32
OK, so this project will be happening over then next few weeks along with my new radiator, hoses, belts, slee light wire harness, electric fan, blue hub fan clutch, dizzy seal & torx screws for front oil pump seal.
I have decided to ditch the blue seas switch, going with a battery isolator instead. And for this reason I will be buying the exact same battery for the Aux. battery that I have for my starting battery. I am also thinking of having board member (Forrunner) build me some 1 Aug wires for all of this once I figure out all the dimensions.
I am going to squeeze the isolator into the space in front of the main battery just behind the headlights. Probably just get an aluminum plate bolted to the frame and screw the isolator down. But the isolator didn't come with instructions so I am not sure what to do with the 4th post (Delcotron Excitation). Also not sure if it's necessary to splice into the OEM wiring to run the alternator to this isolator directly.
So here is my latest diagram:
http://www.markkuz.com/diagram/Batt_Diagram-4.pdf
By the way any one want a BlueSeas 9001e switch? Send me a PM looking to get $30
I have decided to ditch the blue seas switch, going with a battery isolator instead. And for this reason I will be buying the exact same battery for the Aux. battery that I have for my starting battery. I am also thinking of having board member (Forrunner) build me some 1 Aug wires for all of this once I figure out all the dimensions.
I am going to squeeze the isolator into the space in front of the main battery just behind the headlights. Probably just get an aluminum plate bolted to the frame and screw the isolator down. But the isolator didn't come with instructions so I am not sure what to do with the 4th post (Delcotron Excitation). Also not sure if it's necessary to splice into the OEM wiring to run the alternator to this isolator directly.
So here is my latest diagram:
http://www.markkuz.com/diagram/Batt_Diagram-4.pdf
By the way any one want a BlueSeas 9001e switch? Send me a PM looking to get $30
Last edited:
Dual setup
I am stealing Austincruisers set up https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/442538-budget-dual-battery-system.html
in fact I am mostly finished. I am a
, mechanic when it comes to the electrical end of repairing. This setup made sense, wasn't over engineered, and seems idiot proof.
I fabbed my own washer bottle relocation bracket in about an hour with no welding. The Blue Sea 7610 was purchased new on ebay for $70, shipped free. I also found an Edgestar 43Q fridge/freezer on CL for $180. Just need the wires.
I am stealing Austincruisers set up https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/442538-budget-dual-battery-system.html
in fact I am mostly finished. I am a
, mechanic when it comes to the electrical end of repairing. This setup made sense, wasn't over engineered, and seems idiot proof.I fabbed my own washer bottle relocation bracket in about an hour with no welding. The Blue Sea 7610 was purchased new on ebay for $70, shipped free. I also found an Edgestar 43Q fridge/freezer on CL for $180. Just need the wires.
- Thread starter
- #34
Yeah, I have decided to do the same thing. I sold my BlueSeas switch and NOCO Battery Isolator and purchased the BlueSeas battery relay. So I guess this thread will be toast and I post up my completed system in AustinCruisers thread.
The only difference I plan to make to AustinCruisers is to put a plate behind the headlight and in front of the DS battery and run my wires straight across in front of the radiator along with my Slee light harness.
The only difference I plan to make to AustinCruisers is to put a plate behind the headlight and in front of the DS battery and run my wires straight across in front of the radiator along with my Slee light harness.
Grench
SILVER Star
So does that make me the only one anymore that is running a strictly brute force dual battery installation now? Yeah - there are probably others.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/104630-faq-addition-dual-battery-set-ups-2.html
Post 25 -> 47 or so...
No isolator, no minder, no relays. Just big cables, big switches, big batteries and big fuses.
I like the options that are appearing on the market now for secondary battery installations. So far, though, the brute force method has been working for me.
That Blue Seas kit looks pretty cool though!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/104630-faq-addition-dual-battery-set-ups-2.html
Post 25 -> 47 or so...
No isolator, no minder, no relays. Just big cables, big switches, big batteries and big fuses.
I like the options that are appearing on the market now for secondary battery installations. So far, though, the brute force method has been working for me.
That Blue Seas kit looks pretty cool though!
