CASTOR Adjustment ? (was camber) (1 Viewer)

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I was thinking along the same lines pinhead. 6* oughta do it? If I do install 6* shims what problems if any will I encounter with the shaft binding? Also, I've read articles to stay away from the aluminum spacers so does anyone have any suggestions on manufacturers? I think 4wheel parts sells some cast iron ones but need to double check. I should also check on longer U bolts then too, huh?
 
OK, while doing more research I found this in a article on caster angles.

"
Ideally, you would like the upper measurement to be 1/16-1/8" less than the lower measurement for a bit of static "down-angle". Then, as the axle (and pinion) tilt up under load, the angles will approach parallel.

This is for a rear axle. Front pinions try to twist downward under forward load so the lower measurement would ideally the smaller of the two.
 
I was thinking along the same lines pinhead. 6* oughta do it? If I do install 6* shims what problems if any will I encounter with the shaft binding? Also, I've read articles to stay away from the aluminum spacers so does anyone have any suggestions on manufacturers? I think 4wheel parts sells some cast iron ones but need to double check. I should also check on longer U bolts then too, huh?

This is the person I would by my custom steel shims from. 4Crawler Offroad Products - Custom Leaf Spring Shims

Yes, buy new extended ubolts and cut off the extra once installed.

I think 6* is a good shim to use also. I had a somewhat shorter set of extended shackles and ran a 4* shim.
 
I doubt that your caster measurements are accurate.

X2.

You cannot tell castor by putting the angle finder on the studs. Have you checked the knuckles themselves and made sure the bearings are in good shape?

The only good way I have found to get an accurate reading is to take the knuckle off. That or take it to someone and have them tell you. We can guess all day long. You can buy stuff all day long. It might not fix it.
 
The knuckle and wheel bearings are all new as they were rebuilt when I did my mini disc conversion. There is less than 50 miles on that setup.
 
Quick question. Sorry if it's dumb but a guy at a local alignment shop told me the shim goes on the bottom of the axle and I said it should go where the arrow is pointing. Please steer me in the right direction.




Sorry, couldn't help myself. Also, there are one maybe 2 alignment shops that I contacted today that will even consider working on this rig and only at the tune of 200 plus dollars. Seems a bit high for installing a couple of shims and aligning it. or maybe I'm just a tightwad?

no comments.......
shimlocation.webp
 
Yes, the shim goes where your red arrow is. Between the bottom of the housing and the top of the leaf spring. Fat end toward shackle (front of axle) to rotate the pinion down and add more caster.
 
dude. get a shop to check your caster. yes, you're a tightwad and you'll live to regret it.
 
Putting a shim in isn't rocket science.

Other than changing the caster, the alignment isn't going to change.
 
Well, I guess I will always be a tightwad however, I'm gonna save a buck when I can too. Anyway, It doesn't appear to be rocket science but was looking for tips or tricks from the guys who have done this before as I have not. That said, pinhead, you've been a cruiserhead for years so please share your knowledge.....
 
Sure:

1. Remove U bolts from one side.
2. Replace stock spring center pin with longer one. Use C clamp on spring pack when you do this.
3. Add shim with fat end facing shackle.
4. Replace U bolts.
5. Repeat on other side.

That is what the alighment shop would do.
 
Thanks to everyone who has assisted in this info. especially dgangle, belmont and pinhead to name a few.
I know it may seem easy to some of you guys but I'm a little denser than most. I'll keep ya posted
 
A shop isn't going to charge you 200 to tell you what your castor is. If you cannot get the correct measurement of what you have your pissing in the wind buys shims that may or may not work.
 
A shop isn't going to charge you 200 to tell you what your castor is. If you cannot get the correct measurement of what you have your ****ing in the wind buys shims that may or may not work.
x2 it takes all of ten to fifteen minutes,and they can give you your options
 
Bro, back a few years ago when I used to do wheel alignments all day long, I never saw a customer get charged more than $50 to do an alignment check. I can't imagine a shop refusing to work on your rig, or wanting to charge so much. From one tightwad to another, spend the money and have a shop measure the angles for you. You can't believe the aggravation this will save you in the long run.
 
WELL, I either need new glasses or a new angle finder or both. I just got back from the alignment shop and the caster is out 1.5* on the left and 1.6* on the right. The mechanic said to buy 4* shims and that will fix the problem and maybe even stiffen the steering up a bit. What do you guys think? Also, If I do the front should I do the rear at the same time or can it wait?

Thanks
 
WELL, I either need new glasses or a new angle finder or both. I just got back from the alignment shop and the caster is out 1.5* on the left and 1.6* on the right. The mechanic said to buy 4* shims and that will fix the problem and maybe even stiffen the steering up a bit. What do you guys think? Also, If I do the front should I do the rear at the same time or can it wait?

Thanks

Buy the shims! There is no caster for the rear axle, if the ujoint angles are good and you don't have vibes don't worry about the rear.
 
BTW, I'm going to go to the local 4wheelparts place today and pick up the shims. Just want to make sure the 4* will be better and not spend the extra money when 2* will work just fine.
 
BTW, I'm going to go to the local 4wheelparts place today and pick up the shims. Just want to make sure the 4* will be better and not spend the extra money when 2* will work just fine.

2* will leave you almost no caster, buy the 4* shims. My guess is 4wheel parts will only have aluminum shims which suck and will crush over time.
 

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