Tools R Us is correct. For reasons unknown, even among the same motor design, some engines work better with one oil than another. There are those who have had great luck with 0w-40 and those who their truck sucks it down at 1 quart every 1000 miles. Same goes for the Rotella Synth. Try one of the above, if you have high consumption, then switch. Personally, I don't worry about the start up rattle, I have it and my UOA's were fabulous. As a guy at the local parts place said "all Toyota's do that, even our parts truck that has been doing it for 500,000 miles."
Cary - your current engine oil favorites?
- Thread starter IdahoDoug
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
cary said:
I wasn't worried about it, but a simple oil brand change cured it, making me happier, if my motor prefers Mobil 1 then that's what it gets.
Reconsider buying a barrel Dough. Capital outlay without much benefit, storage, oil spills in garage, oil contamination risk, oil theft risk, oil fire risk, drips and spillage with use, need to measure with use, change in weather or your location can not be compensated for, no containers to repackage the used oil for recycling, gives the wife another place to hide your body, .....
Get it by the quart at Costco as you need it - clean and easy.
Mike
Get it by the quart at Costco as you need it - clean and easy.
Mike
- Thread starter
- #24
Guys, thanks! I was literally at WalMart today and realized I've been using Mobil 1 for so many years (approx 26 years) that I have no clue about anything despite reading all the many oil threads here. I guess I'd read them thinking "OK, this is great stuff.......wow this Cary guy really knows his stuff.............hmm, really - didn't know oil would do that.............so that RotellaVac Delo stuff hmmmmm wonder if that's Delco behind the scenes, no way am I touching that..hmmm, well anyway looks like Mobil 1 is still the best......"
And I'd buy another 16 bottles of M1. Which I always pay full retail for and they NEVER have 0-40 M1 at Walmart et al.
So now that I have a minimum of 5 and 1/2 gallons of oil to change each year (2 80s plus the 454 in the boat) I'm thinking about getting large quantities. Mike's comments are good, but I think having the barrel there and a simple pump system I can also use for gear oil (6 diffs, plus a Mercruiser twin prop outdrive) would make my life simpler and I'll save money.
The guys at one of accounts suggest a barrel with a hand pump and a metal oil can with about a gallon capacity. You fill the oil can and it's got a metal tube like spout for high volume spill free pouring - looks like a plant watering can on steroids.
Great advice on using the oil first before commiting to a barrel, however. Think I'll pick Cary's #4 listing - Shell Rotella T synthetic 5-40. I literally had a gallon of it in my hand, but the names on the oil thread were all there on the shelf and I couldn't break through the Mobil 1 security net to remember them....
DougM
And I'd buy another 16 bottles of M1. Which I always pay full retail for and they NEVER have 0-40 M1 at Walmart et al.
So now that I have a minimum of 5 and 1/2 gallons of oil to change each year (2 80s plus the 454 in the boat) I'm thinking about getting large quantities. Mike's comments are good, but I think having the barrel there and a simple pump system I can also use for gear oil (6 diffs, plus a Mercruiser twin prop outdrive) would make my life simpler and I'll save money.
The guys at one of accounts suggest a barrel with a hand pump and a metal oil can with about a gallon capacity. You fill the oil can and it's got a metal tube like spout for high volume spill free pouring - looks like a plant watering can on steroids.
Great advice on using the oil first before commiting to a barrel, however. Think I'll pick Cary's #4 listing - Shell Rotella T synthetic 5-40. I literally had a gallon of it in my hand, but the names on the oil thread were all there on the shelf and I couldn't break through the Mobil 1 security net to remember them....
DougM
Another data point:
Tried M1 20w50 --- Way too thick, slowed down throttle response, slowed down turbo spool up, increased oil pressure way too much.
Ran M1 0w40 --- Loved it all around but harder to find and pricier to purchase cause only checker stocked the stuff.
Currently Run M1 5w40 "SUV" --- Love it, love it, love it --- Easier to find, cheaper to purchase, perfect oil pressure, minimal oil consumption (prolly .5 quart every 3K and most of that through the fresh air intake tube to the turbo which will be fixed sometime soon - look forward to future catch can modifications), fast spool up, fast throttle response, and absolutely amazing Blackstone Lab test results. This, IMHO, is the way to go. HTH.
Tried M1 20w50 --- Way too thick, slowed down throttle response, slowed down turbo spool up, increased oil pressure way too much.
Ran M1 0w40 --- Loved it all around but harder to find and pricier to purchase cause only checker stocked the stuff.
Currently Run M1 5w40 "SUV" --- Love it, love it, love it --- Easier to find, cheaper to purchase, perfect oil pressure, minimal oil consumption (prolly .5 quart every 3K and most of that through the fresh air intake tube to the turbo which will be fixed sometime soon - look forward to future catch can modifications), fast spool up, fast throttle response, and absolutely amazing Blackstone Lab test results. This, IMHO, is the way to go. HTH.
cary said:
That looks quite good,
a couple comments, Right now some Mobil 1 is still on shelves that was produced post Katrina outside of their API approved recipe due to not being able to get some of the normal components of this oil, this oil will be marked on the back left "suitable for" and will not have the API Doughnut, the regular stuff is starting to come back on shelves but I cannot get it in my weights locally yet.
I am not sure what exactly is different but if you have a choice get the non "suitable for" bottles.
I am a little less worried about 50wt oils, cold pumping, and do not use 30wt oils due to warmer climate, right now have my winter blend in, mainly M1 10w-30 EP with a couple quarts m1 15w-50 EP to bring the viscosity up a but, wish I could fine M1 10w-40 EP,
Due to the Katrina oil and monetary concerns I recently bought some Rotella 5w-40 T syn, that should go in shortly.
- Thread starter
- #27
Don't forget to update your sig line when you change the oil! My Mobil 1 even includes the wheel bearings and driveshafts. Only other lube I can think of on the truck is Amsoil in the knuckles. I'll have a few jugs o' Rotella in the garage by tomorrow afternoon.
DougM
DougM
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
- Threads
- 274
- Messages
- 23,205
- Location
- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
RavenTai said:
I am not too much worried about cold pumping, this "winter" has only gotten cold enough to frost damage my wife's pepper plants and the tomatoes plants are still looking good, so the 15w in the 15w-50 should be just fine.
Last edited:
I guess my sig line is not really accurate, I have Mobil 28 in the wheel bearings and drive shafts, Aeroshell 17 in the knuckles and transysnd in the power steering (making use of leftovers from my 2500HD) , I do currently have M1 in the diffs, T-case, transmission and crankcase,
I’ll fix that.
I’ll fix that.
Doug,
I didn't relize you were using the oil in your boat also. You may want to lean toward the M1 5w-40 in that case because it has a really high HTHS for a 40 weight (4.1). If I remember correctly your boat has a hot running rat motor putting out big hp #s. For the drum size container, you may have an easier time finding Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 which is similar (if not the same) to the 5w-40. It is considered by many Mobil's best synthetic and is primarly used by big rigs, so you can find it at most places that service large diesel engines.
I didn't relize you were using the oil in your boat also. You may want to lean toward the M1 5w-40 in that case because it has a really high HTHS for a 40 weight (4.1). If I remember correctly your boat has a hot running rat motor putting out big hp #s. For the drum size container, you may have an easier time finding Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 which is similar (if not the same) to the 5w-40. It is considered by many Mobil's best synthetic and is primarly used by big rigs, so you can find it at most places that service large diesel engines.
Tools R Us said:I am not too much worried about cold pumping, this "winter" has only gotten cold enough to frost damage my wife's pepper plants and the tomatoes plants are still looking good, so the 15w in the 15w-50 should be just fine.
LOL that is not a bad rule of thumb, if tomatoes can grow 15w-50w is OK, 15w-50 would be a little thick for my winters and I sure could not grow tomatoes in the winter here. It is 22 outside right now, I have run straight 15w-50 in the summer giving me my best numbers to date.
Back home in FL I ran mineral 20w-50 year round in everything with good sucess.
that is good info, maybe I need to find a small operation that could be pressured into ordering it, walmart and the rest you cannot even talk to the guy that does the orgers.
I have seen it a couple times online, always at ouragous prices
http://www.autobarn.net/mobiloneep.html
I have seen it a couple times online, always at ouragous prices
http://www.autobarn.net/mobiloneep.html
- Thread starter
- #35
Cary,
Continuing my predilection for keeping things stock, the boat's a completely stock 7.4L MPFI with 330hp at the props (counter rotating dual prop Mercruiser) so not too hard on things at first glance. But consider the different operating life it has vs being in a Suburban. In the Suburban, it probably spends most of its life in the 600-3000 range with the average RPM probably under 1800. In my boat, the optimum MPG occurs at a hair over 3500rpm, so it sits there for hours on end (44mph IIRC). So the oil gets beat on. I should get specific and ask you for a rec on this engine, also. But straight 40 wt is one of the options and I figured M1 0-40 would work. I always give it plenty of time to warm up before easing it up on plane - no water ski takeoffs cold.
Rich,
They make a nice size 16 gallon oil drum called a 'half barrel' or something. I was hoping to find something available in that. The Rotella T is not available in that, but is available as a 12 pack of 1 gallon jugs so it might be an ideal compromise between size, portability and in quantity the cost may drop. I'll let you guys know when I find out from a local distributor. Hope it's less than Wal Mart....
DougM
Continuing my predilection for keeping things stock, the boat's a completely stock 7.4L MPFI with 330hp at the props (counter rotating dual prop Mercruiser) so not too hard on things at first glance. But consider the different operating life it has vs being in a Suburban. In the Suburban, it probably spends most of its life in the 600-3000 range with the average RPM probably under 1800. In my boat, the optimum MPG occurs at a hair over 3500rpm, so it sits there for hours on end (44mph IIRC). So the oil gets beat on. I should get specific and ask you for a rec on this engine, also. But straight 40 wt is one of the options and I figured M1 0-40 would work. I always give it plenty of time to warm up before easing it up on plane - no water ski takeoffs cold.
Rich,
They make a nice size 16 gallon oil drum called a 'half barrel' or something. I was hoping to find something available in that. The Rotella T is not available in that, but is available as a 12 pack of 1 gallon jugs so it might be an ideal compromise between size, portability and in quantity the cost may drop. I'll let you guys know when I find out from a local distributor. Hope it's less than Wal Mart....
DougM
Doug
You might consider looking at Schaeffer's S-9000 5W-40 as an all-around oil for your use. You can get it drop-shipped direct from Schaeffer's at a discount and with free shipping for orders over $250 IIRC.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000027
It has 1.5% sulfated ash like most diesel oils, but carries the S rating as well.
You might consider looking at Schaeffer's S-9000 5W-40 as an all-around oil for your use. You can get it drop-shipped direct from Schaeffer's at a discount and with free shipping for orders over $250 IIRC.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000027
It has 1.5% sulfated ash like most diesel oils, but carries the S rating as well.
Doug,
It is because of how boats run the motors hard that I tend to lean toward the 5w-40. The 0w-40 has a good HTHS at 3.6 and is great oil, but given the motor is under such a high load, I would expect high oil temps and the 5w-40 M1 gives a bit more protection at the cams and bearings with a HTHS of 4.1. I can't remember but do you have an oil temp guage on that thing? I recall you did have some trouble with the motor running really hot last year.
I tend to like synthetic in the boat application because to the extend the engine has any hot spots, the synthetic is less likely to sludge or coke up. At the extreme end of things, a Group IV or V synthetic is going to give 100-200f more heat capacity than a mineral oil.
It is because of how boats run the motors hard that I tend to lean toward the 5w-40. The 0w-40 has a good HTHS at 3.6 and is great oil, but given the motor is under such a high load, I would expect high oil temps and the 5w-40 M1 gives a bit more protection at the cams and bearings with a HTHS of 4.1. I can't remember but do you have an oil temp guage on that thing? I recall you did have some trouble with the motor running really hot last year.
I tend to like synthetic in the boat application because to the extend the engine has any hot spots, the synthetic is less likely to sludge or coke up. At the extreme end of things, a Group IV or V synthetic is going to give 100-200f more heat capacity than a mineral oil.
Not to nit pick (well, I guess I am) but heat capacity is not measured in degrees alone and I bet the heat capacity of dino and synthetic is very nearly the same.
- Thread starter
- #40
Tarbe,
I think what Cary means is not that the synth will shed heat any faster, it's that its behavior as a lubricant at that temp is better. Mineral oil will undergo a permanent chemical change similar to 'burning' (which it's not doing only due to the lack of oxygen) that will cause deposits in a process known as "coking" that can block small passages, etc. Under the same conditions, synthetic oil will not behave like that, but will continue to behave like a lubricant. He's saying that the synth has the capacity to do this at temps from 100 to 200 degrees more than a mineral oil.
This is one of the chief reasons I prefer synthetic since I tow heavy and it is exactly these hot spots in the engine (that are not reflected in the temp guages) that I want my lube to handle.
DougM
I think what Cary means is not that the synth will shed heat any faster, it's that its behavior as a lubricant at that temp is better. Mineral oil will undergo a permanent chemical change similar to 'burning' (which it's not doing only due to the lack of oxygen) that will cause deposits in a process known as "coking" that can block small passages, etc. Under the same conditions, synthetic oil will not behave like that, but will continue to behave like a lubricant. He's saying that the synth has the capacity to do this at temps from 100 to 200 degrees more than a mineral oil.
This is one of the chief reasons I prefer synthetic since I tow heavy and it is exactly these hot spots in the engine (that are not reflected in the temp guages) that I want my lube to handle.
DougM
