82 FJ 60 / 2F desmoged. I recently replaced the dizzy and carb on my LC with recurved dizzy and rebuilt carb from LC Performance. Now I have to crank and pump the accelerator a crazy amount to get the LC to start. Once started I'm good for the rest of the day. It starts right up. With the old carb, 3 pumps, pull out the choke and it fired right up. I also replace the insulator below the carb . When my LC sits over night the fuel in the bowl is gone in the morning . I can't find any leaks. Before I changed my dizzy , I checked the timing . It was advanced alot. I wasn't able to see the BB in the window. After installing the new dizzy I set the timing at 9 deg. BTDC. The LC does appear to run hotter. Before ( according to the OEM gauge ), it ran a needle's width below the halfway mark. Now it runs right at the halfway mark. I also adjusted the valves. I was told this was common with the 2F engines and that it dissipates alot of heat and "cooks" the fuel out of the carb. My cooling fan works great. If this is true, why did I not have any problems with my original carb ? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Carb bowl emptying overnight ?
- Thread starter pdugas
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Maybe-
Your old carb float level was a bit too high which kept the fuel level higher in the float bowl.
Then when the fuel evaporated over night - like they all do, there was a little bit left in the bottom of the bowl to facilitate a quick start
Maybe — the new float level on your rebuilt carb is a bit lower than it used to be.
At any rate - try starting the engine differently in the morning..
1. Pull out the choke all the way
2. Pump the gas pedal all the way to the floor 3 times.
3. Wait 30 seconds doing nothing. (Gives time for fuel that got squirted into the manifold to vaporize)
4. With your foot OFF the gas pedal, turn the key to crank the starter.
5. I betcha it’ll start.
Your old carb float level was a bit too high which kept the fuel level higher in the float bowl.
Then when the fuel evaporated over night - like they all do, there was a little bit left in the bottom of the bowl to facilitate a quick start
Maybe — the new float level on your rebuilt carb is a bit lower than it used to be.
At any rate - try starting the engine differently in the morning..
1. Pull out the choke all the way
2. Pump the gas pedal all the way to the floor 3 times.
3. Wait 30 seconds doing nothing. (Gives time for fuel that got squirted into the manifold to vaporize)
4. With your foot OFF the gas pedal, turn the key to crank the starter.
5. I betcha it’ll start.
- Thread starter
- #4
No . It didn't work . It tried to, but not enough fuel.
Welcome to the club. I've had some 60 carbs do this and others not. Several old threads on it with no conclusions. I'll be following just in case you find the magic bullet.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Do you still have the carb cooling fan? Is it working?
- Thread starter
- #7
Yes. I stated that in my original post. But the trouble is with the first cold start up of the day not when the engine is hot.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Hmmm…so it was hot the last time you shut it off the day before. Did the fan run then?
- Thread starter
- #9
Yes the fan always works.
1) In my limited experience, de-smogged 2Fs like a bit more advanced timing. Some people say that setting the timing where the BB just about disappears from the window, reportedly 17*BTDC, is a good place to start. I set my timing by manifold vacuum and ear and seat of pants. Maybe try that and see if it runs cooler.
B) How long does that carb cooling fan run for? If your engine is running hotter it's gonna take longer to cool down. And it has been warmer than usual of late. Maybe try parking in the shade, pop the hood wide open, see if cooling it down more quickly leaves more fuel in the float bowl.
III) I can think of a couple ways to figure out if losing fuel is temp related. Can you see your porthole window without removing your air filter? Run the engine until hot, park it and watch the fuel level in the window. Compare that to just starting the engine and shutting it off when cool.
You could also, wait until it cools, pull the coil wire and crank it a few times to fill the carb.
Wait, for However long you usually wait between startups.
Hook the coil back up and if it starts instantly, then you have confirmed
It's heat boiling.
If it still drains out, and is hard to start, you may have a leak regardless of temp.
Good luck.
Wait, for However long you usually wait between startups.
Hook the coil back up and if it starts instantly, then you have confirmed
It's heat boiling.
If it still drains out, and is hard to start, you may have a leak regardless of temp.
Good luck.
Like I said above (and on other threads related to this issue) I’ve been going through this on two rebuilt carbs on my current 60. It did not happen on my previous 60 with a Jim C carb - although I don’t necessarily think the fact that Jim rebuilt it necessarily has anything to do with it.
On both trucks my cooling fan & thermosensor work perfectly. So if boiling is what’s happening, is it a difference from one 60 to the other that doesn’t have to do with the cooling fan? A difference in the exhaust or the hood insulator (both items were seemingly the same on both trucks)? Something else related to heat mitigation in the engine bay? Or is it purely based on the carb itself?
And if it does boil, where does it go? Out the PVC line? If the PVC valve is function that hose is a dead end in the eyes of the float bowl, so the vapor shouldn’t escape there - or if it does it should stop pretty quickly once that line and the bowl become pressurized.
Still searching for answers and throwing wild ideas at the wall here.
On both trucks my cooling fan & thermosensor work perfectly. So if boiling is what’s happening, is it a difference from one 60 to the other that doesn’t have to do with the cooling fan? A difference in the exhaust or the hood insulator (both items were seemingly the same on both trucks)? Something else related to heat mitigation in the engine bay? Or is it purely based on the carb itself?
And if it does boil, where does it go? Out the PVC line? If the PVC valve is function that hose is a dead end in the eyes of the float bowl, so the vapor shouldn’t escape there - or if it does it should stop pretty quickly once that line and the bowl become pressurized.
Still searching for answers and throwing wild ideas at the wall here.
Do you have any non-ethanol gas available to try?
If I run ethanol gas in my carbureted truck, the float bowl is empty in the morning. Especially in the summer. I can actually see the fuel boiling in the clear fuel bowl on my fuel pump. When I run non-ethanol I can let the truck sit about a week before the fuel is gone.
I bought a fuel pump with a hand priming lever so I don't have to crank my starter too long to prime it. No it's not a Toyota but I see posts like this in old car, truck and tractor forums. Running non - ethanol gas seems to be the best solution. If it's not available, many have used an electric pump to re prime the system after sitting.
This is assuming you actually don't have any sort of leak in the carburetor.
If I run ethanol gas in my carbureted truck, the float bowl is empty in the morning. Especially in the summer. I can actually see the fuel boiling in the clear fuel bowl on my fuel pump. When I run non-ethanol I can let the truck sit about a week before the fuel is gone.
I bought a fuel pump with a hand priming lever so I don't have to crank my starter too long to prime it. No it's not a Toyota but I see posts like this in old car, truck and tractor forums. Running non - ethanol gas seems to be the best solution. If it's not available, many have used an electric pump to re prime the system after sitting.
This is assuming you actually don't have any sort of leak in the carburetor.
Everything in my engine bay is tight, I using the carb. In fact, as of about a month ago I have zero leaks under the truck too! The only exception is the rings haha.
I run ethanol free 90% of the time. There’s a Maverik station about two miles from my house and I go out of the way to fill up there.
I run ethanol free 90% of the time. There’s a Maverik station about two miles from my house and I go out of the way to fill up there.
Maybe. I’ve only rebuilt one carb myself and I felt dizzy afterwards - not from carb dip fumes but from the myriad of passages! It’ll take me a couple more before I have it memorized.
The crux of the issue on this post and others about it is, given a good working system (cooling fan, PVC, charcoal canister), why do some carbs empty after a hot shut down and others don’t?
DYI I’m running a pretty new charcoal canister too
- Thread starter
- #20
Yes it does.
