Car keep stalling. No codes. Ideas?

[Jczajka]

The 98-02's have throttle cables, the 03-07 are drive by wire.

yeah, I know. Do you have info on how to test this stuff on a 98-02? I just went off the 2004 FSM, because thats all I could find.

Need to find a test for my APPS.

If pin the on the Left is 1 then:

1-2: nothing
1-3: 2.50 kohm
1-4: 2.06 kohm
2-3: 355 ohm
2-4: 1406 ohm
3-4: 1665 ohm

No idea what that means since I dont have a FSM for a 2000 LX yet.

 

[trdcorolla]

yeah, I know. Do you have info on how to test this stuff on a 98-02? I just went off the 2004 FSM, because thats all I could find.

Need to find a test for my APPS.

If pin the on the Left is 1 then:

1-2: nothing
1-3: 2.50 kohm
1-4: 2.06 kohm
2-3: 355 ohm
2-4: 1406 ohm
3-4: 1665 ohm

No idea what that means since I dont have a FSM for a 2000 LX yet.

View attachment 1968359

I have a paper FSM for my 2001 LX. What section did you find the info for the 2004?

 

[Jczajka]

This is where i found it. Maybe it will help?

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[Ninja Cruiser100]

Try running without a gas cap.

 

[medtro]

Try starting with starting fluid. If it doesn't start then it is electrical issue. If it starts, runs smooth, then stalls (runs out of starting fluid) then it is fuel issue.

 

[Jczajka]

Picked up a TPS and crank sensor at Autozone tonight, because why not blindly throw money at it!? Going to toss them in and see if it helps.

Also picked up a couple fusible link to replace my corroded ones. Snagged a couple more pieces of vacuum line to replace some other crusty pieces.

Need to test the fuel pump and charcoal canister more, but I'm beat. Spent my entire day trying to get the truck running so I can use it, but never happened.

 

[trdcorolla]

This is where i found it. Maybe it will help?

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

From my 2001 LX FSM it says using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals VC andE2 (Pin 1 and 2 in your picture). The resistance should be 1.64 - 3.28 kohm @ 68F

If the resistance is not as specified, replace the accelerator pedal sensor.

 

[Jczajka]

From my 2001 LX FSM it says using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals VC andE2 (Pin 1 and 2 in your picture). The resistance should be 1.64 - 3.28 kohm @ 68F

If the resistance is not as specified, replace the accelerator pedal sensor.

Well, that seems like it then! I'll double check but yesterday there was nothing between 1&2. No read out on my multimeter. Guess my APPS it's the culprit.

Does it show a test for the TPS?

Thanks for your help!

 

[white_lx]

From a 2000 LX: relevant FSM pages and EWD diagram showing APS and TPS connections and internals.

 

[Jczajka]

From a 2000 LX: relevant FSM pages and EWD diagram showing APS and TPS connections and internals.

Amazing, thank you!

 

[Jczajka]

So big thank you to @white_lx for the FSM page, that was super helpfull! I found some hardcopy FSMs on ebay that I will def pick up.

After going over everything listed on the FSM page I found all the components within spec, except for the Throttle Control Motor.

Motor resistance 4.8 Ω - Spec 0.3 - 100 Ω - PASS
Clutch resistance 3.1 Ω - Spec 4.2 - 5.2 Ω - FAIL

So the culprit to my stalling, idle drop, and lack of pedal response seems to be the Throttle Control Motor.

Looks like part # 89672-47010 is the Throttle Control Motor, or listed as Idle Speed Control online. $300-$400 online from most Toyota/ Lexus online sellers. Some threads have pointed to a motor from Standard Motor Products on Amazon and Rock Auto that is a drop in replacement. Throttle Control Motor

Throttle Control Motor thread

This motor seems like the best option right now. Amazon says I can have it Monday. Napa lists it as a Throttle Control Actuator and sell for $346 with "Call for availability" everywhere, so I have some calling to do! Advance Auto has their version for $302, and $50 or so in coupons. Guess I'll give the AA version a shot.

I wonder if this motor can be rehabbed before I replace it? From what I've read, these motors have too much friction when they fail and they don't respond accurately and that is what throws off the entire system. There is a magnetic clutch inside and I have read online of people rehabbing these. Maybe i'll pull it now and see whats up. People on Club Lexus talk about overhauling them on a super long 38 page GS thread.

In the same thread from above there is mention of a leaky intake gasket causing the issues, so I'll inspect that and check torque on throttle body? Could a leaky gasket really be causing these issues?

 

[94SRUNNER]

Unmetered air can always cause problems.

 

[white_lx]

Clutch resistance 3.1 Ω - Spec 4.2 - 5.2 Ω - FAIL

I'm not sure if this is enough out of spec to warrant a $300 part at this moment. How accurate is your meter?

Not sure if you have enough time to take a cursory look at all signals when it is running rough: fuel trims, MAF etc. I would start with that.

 

[Jczajka]

Pulled the Throttle Control Motor and no real visible wear. Bearings feel good, brushes seem to have plenty of life left, and everything looks clean.

Still showing 3.1 Ω disassembled.

Guess I'll go buy a new one.

@94SRUNNER Agreed. New vacuum hoses I picked up last night are going on all the areas that haven't been replaced already to tighten up any leaks. Once I get new parts from @beno i'll replace those lines with the real factory version.

Either way this TCM is testing as bad and should be replaced.

Conicelli Toyota Parts 20 minutes from me shows many parts close to best online prices I have found. May start using them to get OE stuff. They quote me retail prices over the phone, but their online price is much cheaper and they have most stuff next day. I can pick parts up for free or pay a couple bucks for them to ship it to me next day. Nice to have that local dealer. The Toyota & Lexus dealers 5 mins from my house only quote retail or way above with no online parts ordering!

 

[Jczajka]

I'm not sure if this is enough out of spec to warrant a $300 part at this moment. How accurate is your meter?

+/- 0.8% Resistance accuracy.

Thoughts? Put all original stuff back in and the new vacuum lines?

 

[Jczajka]

Poking around the engine and thinking about leaks, I found the big line going to the air box was loose at the fitting and cracked in the bottom.

I'm going to wrap the split in silicone tape and use an additional fuel line clamp on the house to try to temporarily tighten it up.

 

[OGBeno]

Poking around the engine and thinking about leaks, I found the big line going to the air box was loose at the fitting and cracked in the bottom.

View attachment 1968936View attachment 1968937

I'm going to wrap the split in silicone tape and use an additional fuel line clamp on the house to try to temporarily tighten it up.

You got a new one of those coming.

All boxes showing Monday delivery Jordan.

 

[Jczajka]

Thanks @beno I bet if I had replaced all these hoses I wouldn't have the issue. At least I could rule them out!

 

[OGBeno]

Almost 20 year old rubber. Most all of it should be replaced. At least that's my philosophy.

 

[Jczajka]

Buttoning it back up with new (or patched) vacuum lines, some new fusible links to replace the corroded ones that were in there (still need to find a 140a and 60a), and the new re-man MAF, to see what happens and check for codes/levels on Scangauge. I put the original Throttle Motor back in but cleaned the old dry grease off and added some fresh stuff, just to the gear teeth in there.

I have to run out to my niece's birthday party, so I'll finish later.

Cross my fingers it's just a vacuum leak, but probably not. I'm leaning towards that throttle motor, but I'll later today.

Thanks so much for everyone's input on this. This forum is great. I've already purchased a few tool, fixed some minor things, and ordered everything I need to do my timing belt and extras, all based on what I've found here.