Can I run a 120V appliance off of a 220V outlet?

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Sorry all, I thought I had posted a reply, but I don't see it.

Thanks to all for the comments. I ended up calling two electricians to give me some quotes for this work and some other kitchen wiring work. I think what likely will end up making sense is running a new circuit or replacing the existing with a lower amp circuit.

The house is ~106 years old, but the power was updated during a reno in the mid 80's. There is a 100 amp serive, but I'm not sure what the cable is (at least it's not knob and tube!). The basement is unfinished and the run from the box to the range location is only ~15 feet. Oh yeah, one more add - I'm not sure why - but when they rewired, the left the box as fuses, not breakers...

Nevertheless, it sounds like there are a few ways to approach this.

Thanks for the great input! :beer:

I'll let you know if I hear back on the quotes.

Cheers, Hugh
 
lowenbrau said:
The trouble with the internet is all the amateur enthusiasts. The good thing about the internet is that you can get an informed opinion by taking taking an average of all the uninformed opinions.

FWIW I'm a journeyman electrician with and interprovincial certification (Canada) who makes his living managing ISP projects and hasn't spun a wire nut in years.

The range plug has all the wires you need to do the job. If you can get the #8 wires into a 15 A breaker (some brands can take wire this large) you can pigtail to a #12 wire at stove end and then install a regular 15A duplex receptical. Get a 'mud ring' to adapt from the 4-11/16" box to the duplex. As has been said already be sure you are dealing with similar materials ie cu to cu. If your wire is al be sure your breaker is rated cu/al and get some Marrettes designed for cu/al connections. As far as the wiring goes, choose the red *OR* the black for the hot wire and isolate the other. Use the white for neutral and green or bare for ground. Make sure the ground is connected to the box, the plug and to the panel. US readers can join the neutral and ground at the box but Canadian Electrical Code requires them to be bonded only at the service entrance.

Now for those who I offended with the amateur comment :flipoff2: I consider myself a mechanic and know far more about mechanics than many journeymen. I've never been trained or worked in a shop other than my own. All self taught and gleaned through sites such as this. I actually do understand that an amateur enthusiast can have some valuable knowledge.

FWIW, I am a Licensed California General Building Contractor with specialties in Carpentry, Electrical, and Plumbing. My Dad was a General Contractor. My Brother is a General Contractor. I also worked in Commercial Construction retail selling electrical, plumbing, and building supplies to my fellow tradesmen. I am currently contracting as well as working as a Safety Inspector for one of the largest residential construction companies in the state of California. We are currently building over 60 tracts, all of which I am required to inspect and ensure building and OSHA standards are being met.

I am also about to take my ICBO tests in Electrical, Plumbing, and Building Codes to qualify as a Building Inspector. As such, everything I have stated is accurate as far as the NEC is concerned.

Code varies between Canada and the U.S. Canada is often more stringent in regards to the National Codes, but California and Florida have the toughest codes in the U.S. due to earthquakes and hurricanes and often exceed Canadian guidelines. That is why you see L.A. County and Dade County Standards next to the A.S.M.E., ICBO, NEC, and UBC Standards.

NEC Section 210-21(a)1 states: A single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating of not less than that of the branch circuit.

That means that when he pulls his wire into the receptacle, from the 8 ga. into a 12 ga. wire to the receptacle, he has to ensure that the breaker in the panel is at least a 20 amp breaker. He has to use this receptacle because it is the only one on the circuit. Or, he could run it from a 15 amp breaker with a 15 or 20 amp receptacle. He cannot pull off of an existing 40 or 50 amp double pole split.

Seeing as how he has fuses, he may be able to put in a lower rated fuse and the municipality may allow him to convert the second hot wire to that of a ground wire on both ends. I'm sure that he has 2 hots and 1 neutral. One of the hot wires will have to be converted to a ground wire if the system is to be converted to a 110/120V, and that wire will have to be marked as a ground wire. They may allow this, but some departments will not.

Also, in this particular case, he is exempt from the GFCI requirement per NEC 422-16. That and he can grandfather it in due to the fusebox in place.

Check local code regarding pigtailing wires together. It is generally allowed if the largest wire does not exceed 10 ga. but varies by department.

I'd run a new circuit or preferably pull a 110/120V drop off of a wall receptacle. Leaving the 220/240V in place is nice to have if you ever switch back to an electric range or sell the house. Good luck.
 
Haven't read the entire thread yet. But here in the Philippines, we run 220V on most household outlets (though our house has both 110V and 220V lines).

For 120V stuff (e.g. our fridge and some TV's), we use commercially available step-down transformers (e.g. by Stavol).
 
OTEP said:
Haven't read the entire thread yet. But here in the Philippines, we run 220V on most household outlets (though our house has both 110V and 220V lines).

For 120V stuff (e.g. our fridge and some TV's), we use commercially available step-down transformers (e.g. by Stavol).


OTEP, how much is a good step-down transformer (240/50 to 110/60) in the PI? A 1000 watt box is about $250 US here in Queensland.
 
This is easy. Get a gas range that works at 220v. Or optionally, get a wood burning stove and print out this thread for fuel.
 
I switched recently from a 220V electric range to a duel fuel unit. The range top has 5 gas burners and the range has dual electric ovens below, 1 standard and 1 convection.

I had to run a gas line for the top and continue to use the 220V for the ovens, but since I had the wall open for gas pipe, I ran additional 110/120V receptacles off existing circuits.

I'd second the motion on sticking with 220V on the range and using this thread for firewood. It's taken too much time to explain a simple procedure. Do it right or don't do it at all.
 
WhiteShark, sounds like you are as tired of this as everyone else, and quite frankly, so am I. Opinions are like a$$holes, everyone has one and they all stink. I respect all your current credentials and the credentials you are about to acquire through further testing. Whew! You are really a credentialling fool!


Anyway, I KNOW you have informed you auto insurance carrier that you have rather significantly modified your Landcruiser with a "300HP V8" so that if, and when you are in an accident, they will have NO opportunity to deny your claim.
I sleep better at night knowing that. You are truly a codified guy. Do you wear a Codpiece?;)


Now....go eat some leftovers. I have.:D


All in good fun!
Ed:D
 
Yes it CAN be done BUT you DON'T want to do it. ALWAYS err on the insurance side! Do it to code and sleep tight. While your at it change your batteries in your smoke detector.
 
Degnol said:
Whew! You are really a credentialling fool!


Anyway, I KNOW you have informed you auto insurance carrier that you have rather significantly modified your Landcruiser with a "300HP V8" so that if, and when you are in an accident, they will have NO opportunity to deny your claim.
I sleep better at night knowing that. You are truly a codified guy. Do you wear a Codpiece?;)


Now....go eat some leftovers. I have.:D


All in good fun!
Ed:D

I like education. I am a full time student all the time, conducting research and studying, as well as working 40-60 hours a week. When I'm not working, I'm usually studying something. It's really cutting into my guitar playing and surfing time. :doh:

I spoke with the State Farm gal last April and she said that they cover basic upgrades, but it's important to document major upgrades. To be safe, they photograph and appraise the vehicle based on cost of conversion, etc. and fully cover the rig based on replacement cost. You pay, but they will cover the goods.

Thanksgiving leftovers rule. I had a ham/turkey/cheese/homegrown tomato sandwich on rustic italian bread and I swear it was possibly the best sandwich ever! I love dead animal flesh. Down with PETA! ;)

Like you said before, all in fun, except that PETA part, they can all rot. :cheers:
 
OZCAL said:
OTEP, how much is a good step-down transformer (240/50 to 110/60) in the PI? A 1000 watt box is about $250 US here in Queensland.

I don't know if they meet regulations in your area, but most step down transformers sell for half that or even less.

We also use a lot of stepdown stuff for computers here.
 
OTEP said:
I don't know if they meet regulations in your area, but most step down transformers sell for half that or even less.

We also use a lot of stepdown stuff for computers here.

They probably would. Let me know if you come across a store that will ship.

Thanks,

David
 
The biggest, most expensive stepdown at the mall's hardware section today was around US$ 150.00. But I don't think the mall ships 'em out that far... hehehe.
 
The biggest, most expensive stepdown at the mall's hardware section today was around US$ 150.00. But I don't think the mall ships 'em out that far... hehehe.
 
:D I ve done it in a pinch.

:hhmm: Last year the AC went out at the school ..........all the damn 240/220 outlets was taking so I just used 2 seperate 120 branchs to get the window air cond. to werk:hillbilly:..we was happy
 

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