Builds Call me Deacon Blues (1 Viewer)

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Finally got Deacon back from East Coast Gear Supply. He's now x3 locked and no more growling/vibration in the driveshaft 😁

Everything was complete a week in a half ago, but they wanted to use the OEM diff lock switch instead of the separate toggles.

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So I guess I bought this for nothing lol.
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I'll find something to put there eventually.
Any specifics on what was the cause/cure for the growl and vibration??
 
Any specifics on what was the cause/cure for the growl and vibration??
It was indeed the pinion angle. As soon as I dropped it off I told them about the growl. He looked underneath and immediately said it was the pinion angle. It rides really smooth now.

I had all the parts necessary to fix, I just installed incorrectly. I have a rear DC driveshaft and extended lower rear control arms from Land Tank, and Dobinsons' adjustable upper control arms. The DC driveshaft and lower arms were on correctly, but the upper arms needed to be extended more.

My upcoming next build will only be a 2.5" lift, but have a similar undercarriage as this one (in case I find a sweet deal for a higher lift before I do the 2.5"). I don't want to chase this problem again
 
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Never mind I see your reply.
This is the first time using these, so I have no feedback for you at this time. But the front are snug going in.
 
This is the first time using these, so I have no feedback for you at this time. But the front are snug going in.
I'm going back to 80 series pads when I do mine next.
 
I'm going back to 80 series pads when I do mine next.
Did you have the 100 series front? If so, why are you going back to 80?
 
Did you have the 100 series front? If so, why are you going back to 80?
I have been running the 100 series pads in mine for the last 100K miles.

The first 15K miles on each set are too tight and tend to drag. This leads to pulling and overheating of the rotors.

Also, through LOTS of reading and interpretation and pondering, the larger 100 series pads actually do the OPPOSITE of what one would expect. To improve braking performance. Not to say I've had BAD braking performance.
If you look at pounds per square inch of pressure on the rotors using the 100 series pads vs the 80 series pads for the SAME pedal pressure, the 80 series is actually higher.
 
I have been running the 100 series pads in mine for the last 100K miles.

The first 15K miles on each set are too tight and tend to drag. This leads to pulling and overheating of the rotors.

Also, through LOTS of reading and interpretation and pondering, the larger 100 series pads actually do the OPPOSITE of what one would expect. To improve braking performance. Not to say I've had BAD braking performance.
If you look at pounds per square inch of pressure on the rotors using the 100 series pads vs the 80 series pads for the SAME pedal pressure, the 80 series is actually higher.
Noted. I'll do the same on the next change.
 
Improved performance using 100 series pads on your 80 is conjecture. I went with 80 series pads intentionally after reading a gajillion threads about the 80 vs 100 pads. It was all very subjective and seats of the pants opinions.
 
Improved performance using 100 series pads on your 80 is conjecture. I went with 80 series pads intentionally after reading a gajillion threads about the 80 vs 100 pads. It was all very subjective and seats of the pants opinions.
Well I have a reading and writing problem (hints why I'm in the Army). I just do s***, have others tell me if its good or bad, then go from there lol.
 
I was indeed the pinion angle. As soon as I dropped it off I told them about the growl. He looked underneath and immediately said it was the pinion angle. It rides really smooth now.

I had all the parts necessary to fix, I just installed incorrectly. I have a rear DC driveshaft and extended lower rear control arms from Land Tank, and Dobinsons' adjustable upper control arms. The DC driveshaft and lower arms were on correctly, but the upper arms needed to be extended more.

My upcoming next build will only be a 2.5" lift, but have a similar undercarriage as this one (in case I find a sweet deal for a higher lift before I do the 2.5"). I don't want to chase this problem again
Great to hear it was just an angle thing and not the tcase or something else! I finally solved mine too after almost 2 years of trial and error. Mine was the front driveshaft/pinion angles. Seems to be a fine line with these trucks.
I do have to say tho that with no vibrations, and new balanced tires and all bushings replaced, it really really is nice to drive!!
 
Great to hear it was just an angle thing and not the tcase or something else! I finally solved mine too after almost 2 years of trial and error. Mine was the front driveshaft/pinion angles. Seems to be a fine line with these trucks.
I do have to say tho that with no vibrations, and new balanced tires and all bushings replaced, it really really is nice to drive!!
Thats great to hear on your end too. Now I have a shelf tcase and new Sumo gears to get rid of.
 
Improved performance using 100 series pads on your 80 is conjecture. I went with 80 series pads intentionally after reading a gajillion threads about the 80 vs 100 pads. It was all very subjective and seats of the pants opinions.

What about the Power Stop Extreame Pads designed for off road/towing use, has anyone ever use them?
I was indeed the pinion angle. As soon as I dropped it off I told them about the growl. He looked underneath and immediately said it was the pinion angle. It rides really smooth now.

I had all the parts necessary to fix, I just installed incorrectly. I have a rear DC driveshaft and extended lower rear control arms from Land Tank, and Dobinsons' adjustable upper control arms. The DC driveshaft and lower arms were on correctly, but the upper arms needed to be extended more.

My upcoming next build will only be a 2.5" lift, but have a similar undercarriage as this one (in case I find a sweet deal for a higher lift before I do the 2.5"). I don't want to chase this problem again

When they adjusted the pinon angle on the rear axle did they use a 4 point lift or support the axle and adjust that way? I am interested in adjusting my rear axle, using the adjustable upper control arms.
 
What about the Power Stop Extreame Pads designed for off road/towing use, has anyone ever use them?


When they adjusted the pinon angle on the rear axle did they use a 4 point lift or support the axle and adjust that way? I am interested in adjusting my rear axle, using the adjustable upper control arms.
PM me Monday. I'll shoot them a message asking for a write up of what they did.
 
What about the Power Stop Extreame Pads designed for off road/towing use, has anyone ever use them?


When they adjusted the pinon angle on the rear axle did they use a 4 point lift or support the axle and adjust that way? I am interested in adjusting my rear axle, using the adjustable upper control arms.
I don’t have first hand experience but I’m sure someone’s used them. I’ve heard good things about power stop. You’re not going to realize noticeable gains just from different pads on these 80s. Based on my research, the single most immediate ROI for improved braking performance is removing ABS and the LSPV but then that could open up another can of worms when it comes to insurability/claims etc. not trying to muddy up Darren’s thread but it could quickly spiral from here.
 
Off to GSMTR 😁
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I even get the chance to use these expensive ass sun visors.

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Got to GSMTR yesterday, and hit a few trails today. I wish others took pictures of me as I always take pictures of them. Fingers crossed someone snaps a few pics of me tomorrow.

Anyway, let's talk about the supercharger and intercooler. Driving ~6 hrs from North Carolina to Tennessee my average engine temps were ~193° (with AC on). Twice in traffic I saw 206° so I turned the heat exchanger fan from auto to on and temps dropped to 198°.

Today on the trail I started with AC on and temps got up to 204°. I turned the AC off and temps stayed around 185°.

For normal around town driving, I usually see temps at 185°.
 

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