Yes, that's the hole for the running board courtesy lights. That's a normal hole.
I'm working on the OWL wiring harness to install LED lights.
Bye Bye to The King: Windshield rust repair ++
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I'm working on the OWL wiring harness to install LED lights.
Pic #5
forum.ih8mud.com
Owl plug-and-play LX courtesy/puddle replacement and rock lights
Hey all, I'm officially no longer gauging interest and am instead selling them! What they are: (4) ip68 water resistant, 10 led lights (6 led lights are available instead of 10 if you want something a little less bright). (4) hand made (to keep price down) stainless steel protective brackets...
forum.ih8mud.com
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #83
Nice catch!
I take it' you're saying this hole in floor board was plugged and not a water entry point!
Also look on fire wall around brake master area from under hood. Although the engine compartment stay fairly dry even driving in rain, provided all stock (all shielding in place), it's worth looking at. Often I find aftermarket wiring holes in fire wall.
Moving on:
So now we know this is DS foot well, and not 1/4 panel, floor board or fire wall related leaks. We move to higher level of vehicle,.
With interior side A pillar molding off. Poor water in sun roof drains, no where else. Watch, for leaks and where water flows. All good (flows and no water entry in cabin)! YES.
Has windshield been replaced, YES!
Let's than look at molding.
Is it properly installed?
Are all 4 rivets in each of side moldings?
Are the rivets cover with a thin narrow strip molding?
Do rivet holes lineup with marks on windshield?
Is windshield placed on body in proper position (high and side to side even spaced) ?
Is molding held only by double side tape in roof rain gutter and rivets down the side (A pillar) of proper size?
I find so often (99 out of 100) if windshield replaced, molding improperly install. In this thread and others. I showed how to set molding in this and other threads.
Keys are:
We must have:
- No black poly should be in rain gutter of roof, these installers used to glue molding in. If is must be removed. It will block and trap debris under molding and excessive moisture.
- Double sided tape should be only think holding molding in rain gutter of roof.
- Black ploy (BP) must be Popsicle stick away from "A" pillar an tucked only under glass during install while BP wet. There should be a clear area free of any blockage between windshield and "A" pillar of about ~1/2". This is a drain canal from roof rain gutter under molding that must not be blocked. Best if black ploy allowed to dry, before install of side molding.
- Molding must be pulled so tight to "A" pillar when rivets set, it has zero gap and will not move at all. No movement whatsoever along length of "A" pillar.
- 4 plastic coated aluminium rivets used to set molding, and cover by thin molding.
When I find issue with molding, I remove it. If I find black ploy in wrong places, I remove it. If i find any signs of rust, I mitigated it. If that means removing windshield so be it.
Additionally:
One other point less common leak we get. Is block ploy seal to windshield, has leak (opening). Here's where the soap bubble test is most revealing.
Most common of these is along the roof line center. 100 series have a seat for a rubber block that comes on factory windshield. This seat insure windshield set at correct height in body. Some installers (not using factory glass and install kit) will place tape under a hole in this seat (very good idea). Than cover hole with a dab of black ploy, backed by the tape. Than place on windshield.
Post up picture of your molding here, that clearly shows what I've outlined and we may spot something for you.
Last edited:
Excellent write-up Paul. Thanks for taking the time to write this.Nice catch!
I take it' you're saying this hole in floor board was plugged and not a water entry point!
Also look on fire wall around brake master area from under hood. Although the engine compartment stay fairly dry even driving in rain, provided all stock (all shielding in place), it's worth looking at. Often I find aftermarket wiring holes in fire wall.
Moving on:
So now we know this is DS foot well, and not 1/4 panel, floor board or fire wall related leaks. We move to higher level of vehicle,.
With interior side A pillar molding off. Poor water in sun roof drains, no where else. Watch, for leaks and where water flows. All good (flows and no water entry in cabin)! YES.
Has windshield been replaced, YES!
Let's than look at molding.
Is it properly installed?
Are all 4 rivets in each of side moldings?
Are the rivets cover with a thin narrow strip molding?
Do rivet holes lineup with marks on windshield?
Is windshield placed on body in proper position (high and side to side even spaced) ?
Is molding held only by double side tape in roof rain gutter and rivets down the side (A pillar) of proper size?
I find so often (99 out of 100) if windshield replaced, molding improperly install. In this thread and others. I showed how to set molding in this and other threads.
Keys are:
We must have:
Note: Factory rivets holes line up with factory holes in molding. Rivets must be of proper size for holes (some holes have been enlarged by installers), so that they fit sung before set. Any extra hole(s) drilled into "A" pillar, must be plugged.
- No black poly should be in rain gutter of roof, these installers used to glue molding in. If is must be removed. It will block and trap debris under molding and excessive moisture.
- Double sided tape should be only think holding molding in rain gutter of roof.
- Black ploy (BP) must be Popsicle stick away from "A" pillar an tucked only under glass during install while BP wet. There should be a clear area free of any blockage between windshield and "A" pillar of about ~1/2". This is a drain canal from roof rain gutter under molding that must not be blocked. Best if black ploy allowed to dry, before install of side molding.
- Molding must be pulled so tight to "A" pillar when rivets set, it has zero gap and will not move at all. No movement whatsoever along length of "A" pillar.
- 4 plastic coated aluminium rivets used to set molding, and cover by thin molding.
When I find issue with molding, I remove it. If I find black ploy in wrong places, I remove it. If i find any signs of rust, I mitigated it. If that means removing windshield so be it.
Additionally:
One other point less common leak we get. Is block ploy seal to windshield, has leak (opening). Here's where the soap bubble test is most revealing.
Most common of these is along the roof line center. 100 series have a seat for a rubber block that comes on factory windshield. This seat insure windshield set at correct height in body. Some installers (not using factory glass and install kit) will place tape under a hole in this seat (very good idea). Than cover hole with a dab of black ploy, backed by the tape. Than place on windshield.
Post up picture of your molding here, that clearly shows what I've outlined and we may spot something for you.
It looks like I have to get the windshield professionally removed from what you are saying.
The windshield was replaced. The rivnuts are not installed, the strip molding is missing and the rivnut holes have some type of sealant or nothing at all. And, the top corner of the windshield has sealant as well.
Just in case I'll test the sun roof drains again.
I removed the A-pillar cover and saw signs of water droplets (evaporated).
I just received the new sunroof seal and will tackle that when I have time. In the meantime I sealed off the whole area.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #85
I would've like to see more of your side molding. But from what I do see, at minimum side molding needs to be removed.
I also see BP at top comer gluing or sealing upper windshield molding to side mold. That's very bad sign.
Don't pull off top molding from glass along roof line, just side mold for now. Likely they've also glued side molding to "A" pillar and glass. Most times when this done, glass will crack as you remove molding. If so go-head and remove top molding as glass well need replacing. Use only plastic body tool and plastic/carbon fiber chisels, no metal or you'll damage body and paint. Harbor Fright has them! Then fill holes with 3m windshield butyl.
Here one I'm working
I also see BP at top comer gluing or sealing upper windshield molding to side mold. That's very bad sign.
Don't pull off top molding from glass along roof line, just side mold for now. Likely they've also glued side molding to "A" pillar and glass. Most times when this done, glass will crack as you remove molding. If so go-head and remove top molding as glass well need replacing. Use only plastic body tool and plastic/carbon fiber chisels, no metal or you'll damage body and paint. Harbor Fright has them! Then fill holes with 3m windshield butyl.
Here one I'm working
It's not the windshield.
I just spent 30 minutes inside the car during the downpour we are getting and not a single drop of water. The sunroof drains are dry because I covered the sunroof. I wanted to isolate it to be 100% it was the windshield.
There was a lot of water coming down on the outside channel and I could see the open hole under the water. I'm inclined to think it's that rivnut opening.
The drops I can see are very few. Not a lot. Inside this area:
I have that set of plastic chisels and will carefully remove the side molding trim.
Luckily I've done Defender body work and I have the rivets in different sizes.
Once the rain stops later this week, I'll get to it.
Luckily I've done Defender body work and I have the rivets in different sizes.
Once the rain stops later this week, I'll get to it.
Agreed.
I'll get it done right now that I know what I'm dealing with.
Now I need to order that strip that goes over the rivets.
One last question (for now )
It looks like I'm missing a chunk of seal in that corner. Once I remove the silicone, do you recommend using the Windo-Weld or OEM strip?
)It looks like I'm missing a chunk of seal in that corner. Once I remove the silicone, do you recommend using the Windo-Weld or OEM strip?
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #91
Best is to have new molding across the top. But that likely means new windshield. Some guy have replaced that while glass in. But often time to much BP holding it and in the gap. I'd get side out first and see what you're dealing with.
When done you want to look like this, not some patch work. Which may mean a new windshield.
You don't want to end up like this. So mitigated rust and get it done properly the first time.
This one below, if not corrected will get just as bad as one above. Molding holds in moisture, and it can get very very bad.
When done you want to look like this, not some patch work. Which may mean a new windshield.
You don't want to end up like this. So mitigated rust and get it done properly the first time.
This one below, if not corrected will get just as bad as one above. Molding holds in moisture, and it can get very very bad.
Do you re-use the side molding or you buy new?
This has been a really helpful thread. I developed a pretty bad leak on the passenger side and a slight leak on the drivers side. After seeing how straightforward it is, I decided to redo all the molding myself. What’s funny is that the passenger side was riveted on, but the drivers side wasn’t on AT ALL. Looks like they attempted it, but didn’t go all the way through the A-pillar.
On the passenger side (the side with the massive leak), the required 1/2” drain channel wasn’t there so I started creating one by scraping away the window sealer with a plastic scraper.
The drivers side seal material is a little harder to remove. This side I suspect had water intrusion at the A-pillar holes where the rivets were supposed to be attached. Should I remove all of the sealant that isn’t directly under the windshield?
On the passenger side (the side with the massive leak), the required 1/2” drain channel wasn’t there so I started creating one by scraping away the window sealer with a plastic scraper.
The drivers side seal material is a little harder to remove. This side I suspect had water intrusion at the A-pillar holes where the rivets were supposed to be attached. Should I remove all of the sealant that isn’t directly under the windshield?
Great tip. I started going over everything with POR-15 since the paint started pealing after removing some of the sealant.
Someone on Mud put rivnuts in hole for the pop rivets. It didn't take them very long and then they were left with the ability to use stainless screws to hold the trim piece in place. Any thoughts on doing that @2001LC ?
I still need to deal with my front windshield rust. It turns out that denial and then choosing to wheel my truck harder isn't a very good solution to the rust....
I still need to deal with my front windshield rust. It turns out that denial and then choosing to wheel my truck harder isn't a very good solution to the rust....
Thanks for all these excellent pictures, I have two questions.
For context, my upper windshield moulding came off from one side while driving and started flapping against the vehicle body. and the rest of it just pulled out with minimal effort. So I'm guessing safelite didn't use enough or improper adhesive when reattaching this piece.
I ordered a new one. Can it be installed *properly* with the side mouldings in place? I see it slides under slightly. I know my side mouldings need tlc but I would like to get this piece in before leaving back to college. I cant imagine it's critical to water sealing because the glass is still sealed to the body. Then I can probably do without the top moulding for awhile, until i'm ready to do the side mouldings?
And second, what adhesive should I use for this, if I do want to do it now? 3M super weatherstrip adhesive, or 3M windshield urethane adhesive (08693)?
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #99
The windshield shop will say glass must come out, to replace upper seal. But some on mud have replaced with glass in. It depends on how much black ploy the used. To much and seal will not fit sung. Best 3M windshield urethane adhesive. But 3M super weatherstrip adhesive should also work.
You do not need any molding in place. I've 2 that I removed 2 years ago to de-rust and or repair rivet holes. I just plugged rivet holes with 3M windshield butyl. They only issue I have, is more and larger leaves get into fender pocket. Since side molding is not there, to fill lower molding opening for it.
"One other point less common leak we get. Is block ploy seal to windshield, has leak (opening). Here's where the soap bubble test is most revealing.Nice catch!
I take it' you're saying this hole in floor board was plugged and not a water entry point!
Also look on fire wall around brake master area from under hood. Although the engine compartment stay fairly dry even driving in rain, provided all stock (all shielding in place), it's worth looking at. Often I find aftermarket wiring holes in fire wall.
Moving on:
So now we know this is DS foot well, and not 1/4 panel, floor board or fire wall related leaks. We move to higher level of vehicle,.
With interior side A pillar molding off. Poor water in sun roof drains, no where else. Watch, for leaks and where water flows. All good (flows and no water entry in cabin)! YES.
Has windshield been replaced, YES!
Let's than look at molding.
Is it properly installed?
Are all 4 rivets in each of side moldings?
Are the rivets cover with a thin narrow strip molding?
Do rivet holes lineup with marks on windshield?
Is windshield placed on body in proper position (high and side to side even spaced) ?
Is molding held only by double side tape in roof rain gutter and rivets down the side (A pillar) of proper size?
I find so often (99 out of 100) if windshield replaced, molding improperly install. In this thread and others. I showed how to set molding in this and other threads.
Keys are:
We must have:
Note: Factory rivets holes line up with factory holes in molding. Rivets must be of proper size for holes (some holes have been enlarged by installers), so that they fit sung before set. Any extra hole(s) drilled into "A" pillar, must be plugged.
- No black poly should be in rain gutter of roof, these installers used to glue molding in. If is must be removed. It will block and trap debris under molding and excessive moisture.
- Double sided tape should be only think holding molding in rain gutter of roof.
- Black ploy (BP) must be Popsicle stick away from "A" pillar an tucked only under glass during install while BP wet. There should be a clear area free of any blockage between windshield and "A" pillar of about ~1/2". This is a drain canal from roof rain gutter under molding that must not be blocked. Best if black ploy allowed to dry, before install of side molding.
- Molding must be pulled so tight to "A" pillar when rivets set, it has zero gap and will not move at all. No movement whatsoever along length of "A" pillar.
- 4 plastic coated aluminium rivets used to set molding, and cover by thin molding.
When I find issue with molding, I remove it. If I find black ploy in wrong places, I remove it. If i find any signs of rust, I mitigated it. If that means removing windshield so be it.
Additionally:
One other point less common leak we get. Is block ploy seal to windshield, has leak (opening). Here's where the soap bubble test is most revealing.
Most common of these is along the roof line center. 100 series have a seat for a rubber block that comes on factory windshield. This seat insure windshield set at correct height in body. Some installers (not using factory glass and install kit) will place tape under a hole in this seat (very good idea). Than cover hole with a dab of black ploy, backed by the tape. Than place on windshield.
Post up picture of your molding here, that clearly shows what I've outlined and we may spot something for you.
Most common of these is along the roof line center. 100 series have a seat for a rubber block that comes on factory windshield. This seat insure windshield set at correct height in body. Some installers (not using factory glass and install kit) will place tape under a hole in this seat (very good idea). Than cover hole with a dab of black ploy, backed by the tape. Than place on windshield."
Paul, this is a great thread. I posed a question to the forum about the "Windshield Stopper" mentioned here. So if I understand you correctly, if you purchase an OEM Toyota or Lexus windshield it comes with the stoppers attached?
