Don't make me cry...spray paint??
153k miles on it. Very regular dealer service on carfax.
I could be wrong- but the gas tank, lower control arm mount, engine skidplate center support bracket are unusually black & shiny.
Buying/Selling - what year, how much, etc. - ask for opinions here (8 Viewers)
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I could be wrong- but the gas tank, lower control arm mount, engine skidplate center support bracket are unusually black & shiny.
Yes I did, the '04 was hit and miss but the paper records are supposedly complete other then the TB. The Lexus I am talking about I did that too, the records are complete and loaded, they really brought it in all the time.
That actually saved me on a LX with 135K a week or so ago. It was a private seller and he said he only had it serviced at Lexus but had no paper records. He also said they never recommended a TB/WP replacement. When I looked it up, they did at 95K miles but he declined it. It didn't look to be serviced well either.
Just a general question is rust really that harmful to the undercarriage if its not to bad seen alot of cars with it and no issues.
A small amount of spray paint would not bother me. It's what, if anything that may be under the spray paint that would concern me.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Rust
Is mileage important:
Most want newest with lowest mileage, which is fine.
Mileage is least of my concerns, other than they carry a higher book valve. I say do your homework; due diligence pre inspect, then inspect, inspect & inspect. I've gotten very good at inspections, but even I can't find it all in 3 or 4 hours.
For me the 00-02 no NAV are the sweet spot regardless of mileage.
These 00-02 IMHO, have the least mechanical issues of all 100 series. Which makes them the most reliable of the years IMHO.
As a hobby, I've been restoring 100's and doing some repairs for others. What I've found is many corner shops just don't know how to or take the time to maintain our 100's properly. For me the work others have done, only save me cost of parts they've installed. I've found the need too go back over what they've done especially frontend work, to set up correctly. For me it's time, for those that don't wrench it's costly shop expense.
I just meet a guy that bought a 2006 w/70k out of TX for ~$30K. He buys Toyota LC, he explained; because "they last and don't need maintaining, just change oil now and then". Wrong! He sold his 03 for $3K with less than 200K, after driving into ground and overheating I suspect.
I've sold all this years purchases, except a golden pearl white 2001 LX470 w/215K that I've taken a great deal of time on restoring. LX470 to build or not to build... It has good bones as they say.
I'm procrastinating listing this 01 LX for sale, because it turnout so great I just love driving her daily. It would have taken $6 to $8k for someone to have a restoration shop do what I've done. The corner discount shops' just can do this type or level of "time consuming" work.
I'll be listing soon, may be today or tomorrow, or so I keep telling my girl friend
. She pissed at all the time I spend in the garage with the WhiteLady
Body trim polishing & correcting compounds
Over time issues may arise even on this restored 01 LX470 (WhiteLady) or my 01 LC (King) I've had for 13 years. Issues above and beyond the recommended maintenance routine. But with good bones it will always be worth repairing for me.
What some would call surface rust, would not be worth restore in my book. My rules are straight & rust free first and foremost. The rest is just parts & time!
Alert: Some are swapping instrument panels with lower mileage ones. Seller out of LV on CL with 01LC w/135K I suspect trying to unload one now.
For me is rust a no go. With rust comes many issues. Keep in mind you only see what not hidden. Why buy a rusty rig then pour money into it, when many rust frees' are around. Bolt & parts freeze up and break, water leaks into electronic are just some of the issues with rust.
I agree; It's why paint or mod have been done that need close inspection.
Is mileage important:
Most want newest with lowest mileage, which is fine.
Mileage is least of my concerns, other than they carry a higher book valve. I say do your homework; due diligence pre inspect, then inspect, inspect & inspect. I've gotten very good at inspections, but even I can't find it all in 3 or 4 hours.
For me the 00-02 no NAV are the sweet spot regardless of mileage.
These 00-02 IMHO, have the least mechanical issues of all 100 series. Which makes them the most reliable of the years IMHO.
As a hobby, I've been restoring 100's and doing some repairs for others. What I've found is many corner shops just don't know how to or take the time to maintain our 100's properly. For me the work others have done, only save me cost of parts they've installed. I've found the need too go back over what they've done especially frontend work, to set up correctly. For me it's time, for those that don't wrench it's costly shop expense.
I just meet a guy that bought a 2006 w/70k out of TX for ~$30K. He buys Toyota LC, he explained; because "they last and don't need maintaining, just change oil now and then". Wrong! He sold his 03 for $3K with less than 200K, after driving into ground and overheating I suspect.
I've sold all this years purchases, except a golden pearl white 2001 LX470 w/215K that I've taken a great deal of time on restoring. LX470 to build or not to build... It has good bones as they say.
I'm procrastinating listing this 01 LX for sale, because it turnout so great I just love driving her daily. It would have taken $6 to $8k for someone to have a restoration shop do what I've done. The corner discount shops' just can do this type or level of "time consuming" work.
I'll be listing soon, may be today or tomorrow, or so I keep telling my girl friend
. She pissed at all the time I spend in the garage with the WhiteLady Body trim polishing & correcting compoundsOver time issues may arise even on this restored 01 LX470 (WhiteLady) or my 01 LC (King) I've had for 13 years. Issues above and beyond the recommended maintenance routine. But with good bones it will always be worth repairing for me.
What some would call surface rust, would not be worth restore in my book. My rules are straight & rust free first and foremost. The rest is just parts & time!
Alert: Some are swapping instrument panels with lower mileage ones. Seller out of LV on CL with 01LC w/135K I suspect trying to unload one now.
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That truck in LV is a total scam. Was listed in St George Utah with actual miles >235k. Good to know that instrument panel swap is how they perpetrate the scam...Rust
For me is rust a no go. With rust comes many issues. Keep in mind you only see what not hidden. Why buy a rusty rig then pour money into it, when many rust frees' are around. Bolt & parts freeze up and break, water leaks into electronic are just some of the issues with rust.
I agree; It's why paint or mod have been done that need close inspection.
Is mileage important:
Most want newest with lowest mileage, which is fine.
Mileage is least of my concerns, other than they carry a higher book valve. I say do your homework; due diligence pre inspect, then inspect, inspect & inspect. I've gotten very good at inspections, but even I can't find it all in 3 or 4 hours.
For me the 00-02 no NAV are the sweet spot regardless of mileage.
These 00-02 IMHO, have the least mechanical issues of all 100 series. Which makes them the most reliable of the years IMHO.
As a hobby, I've been restoring 100's and doing some repairs for others. What I've found is many corner shops just don't know how to or take the time to maintain our 100's properly. For me the work others have done, only save me cost of parts they've installed. I've found the need too go back over what they've done especially frontend work, to set up correctly. For me it's time, for those that don't wrench it's costly shop expense.
I just meet a guy that bought a 2006 w/70k out of TX for ~$30K. He buys Toyota LC, he explained; because "they last and don't need maintaining, just change oil now and then". Wrong! He sold his 03 for $3K with less than 200K, after driving into ground and overheating I suspect.
I've sold all this years purchases, except a golden pearl white 2001 LX470 w/215K that I've taken a great deal of time on restoring. LX470 to build or not to build... It has good bones as they say.
I'm procrastinating listing this 01 LX for sale, because it turnout so great I just love driving her daily. It would have taken $6 to $8k for someone to have a restoration shop do what I've done. The corner discount shops' just can do this type or level of "time consuming" work. My girl fiend couldn't see through the grim, poor handle & feel. Now she can't believe it the same truck and loves the ride, look & feel even the smell.
I'll be listing soon, may be today or tomorrow, or so I keep telling my girl friend
Over time issues may arise even on this restored 01 LX470 (WhiteLady) or my 01 LC (King) I've had for 13 years. Issues above and beyond the recommended maintenance routine. But with good bones it will always be worth repairing for me.
What some would call surface rust, would not be worth restore in my book. My rules are straight & rust free first and foremost. The rest is just parts & time!
Alert: Some are swapping instrument panels with lower mileage ones. Seller out of LV on CL with 01LC w/135K I suspect trying to unload one now.
2001LC
SILVER Star
He said he bought out of St George. Wonder if he got scammed and now trying to pass it off or is the same perpetrator. Either way I suspect he knows, he'll not send me picture of VIN plate.
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Sketchy. Vin they sent me was identical to one from Dr George that was on ksl and Craigslist the same time as this truck in Vegas. Also they were using at least one different phone number before
2001LC
SILVER Star
I found him a very poor communicator, and his story had holes. I finally got him to give me VIN# (a week). When I checked it at mylexus it showed service a year ago at 185K (listed at 135K) He said 135K is what it had when he bought, then changed his CL listing to 136K the next day. I asked for picture of VIN plate in door repeatedly, which he's promised to send twice (never did). He's too poor a commutator for me to deal with long distance, or perpetrating a fraud. Whichever it's now off my list.
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Hello - looking for you '100 Jedi master opinions.
Specifically would you buy it?
I'm looking at a '06 LX out of Knoxville. Maintenance history isn't fully documented @ dealer or CarFax.
It has 117K & was a Miami car during its first 100K followed by a year in Knoxville after being purchased from Hilson auto. 95k service is done & inspection from Lexus dealer notes right front CV needs replacement, spark plugs need replacement, and a few other nits like hood struts / filters.
No rust reported & none that I could see from doing a FaceTime inspection.
Agreed price is $23.1 BEFORE factoring in costs for the items found during inspection. Current owner has spent hours talking with me & while he's not the car nut I am he believes he has a solid truck.
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=442319319
Specifically would you buy it?
I'm looking at a '06 LX out of Knoxville. Maintenance history isn't fully documented @ dealer or CarFax.
It has 117K & was a Miami car during its first 100K followed by a year in Knoxville after being purchased from Hilson auto. 95k service is done & inspection from Lexus dealer notes right front CV needs replacement, spark plugs need replacement, and a few other nits like hood struts / filters.
No rust reported & none that I could see from doing a FaceTime inspection.
Agreed price is $23.1 BEFORE factoring in costs for the items found during inspection. Current owner has spent hours talking with me & while he's not the car nut I am he believes he has a solid truck.
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=442319319
Hello - looking for you '100 Jedi master opinions.
Specifically would you buy it?
I'm looking at a '06 LX out of Knoxville. Maintenance history isn't fully documented @ dealer or CarFax.
It has 117K & was a Miami car during its first 100K followed by a year in Knoxville after being purchased from Hilson auto. 95k service is done & inspection from Lexus dealer notes right front CV needs replacement, spark plugs need replacement, and a few other nits like hood struts / filters.
No rust reported & none that I could see from doing a FaceTime inspection.
Agreed price is $23.1 BEFORE factoring in costs for the items found during inspection. Current owner has spent hours talking with me & while he's not the car nut I am he believes he has a solid truck.
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=442319319
Specifically would you buy it?
I'm looking at a '06 LX out of Knoxville. Maintenance history isn't fully documented @ dealer or CarFax.
It has 117K & was a Miami car during its first 100K followed by a year in Knoxville after being purchased from Hilson auto. 95k service is done & inspection from Lexus dealer notes right front CV needs replacement, spark plugs need replacement, and a few other nits like hood struts / filters.
No rust reported & none that I could see from doing a FaceTime inspection.
Agreed price is $23.1 BEFORE factoring in costs for the items found during inspection. Current owner has spent hours talking with me & while he's not the car nut I am he believes he has a solid truck.
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=442319319
I was just in your situation and will add my experience. I'm in the Atlanta area and I settled on a 06 LX as well. Mine had 130k miles with the timing belt, CVs, and brakes all done and documented within the last 1k miles. Service history in the first 100k miles was spotty but the guy I bought it from had very good records.
I ended up paying about 21.5k and feel I got a pretty good deal considering what's out there. However, since I have owned, all 5 TMPS sensors have gone out, one new CV boot is already torn (replacing under warranty) and the power steering lines are leaking.
Figure out what the timing belt and CVs will cost you. Then add in between $500 (if you will do all work) to $1,500 in baseline expenses.
Have you asked the seller to perform the AHC test? (checking the number of hash marks between L and H) Best of luck with your search.
RUN, RUN,RUN! research this dealer! I almost flew out to see this car but when I saw the reviews I didn't care if they cut the price by half. Sorry.
Dang! I have an aim inspector scheduled to go out and see it for me this morning. I was thinking if it passed inspection then it might just be a good car that happens to be at a bad dealer... no? Carfax is clean but Lexus owners site said there was after market radiator put in 100k mikes ago after a minor front end collision. That owner kept it for 50k Moré mikes.
AC compressor replaced, timing belt done a few k mikes ago as well.
I had the same thought, even a broken clock is correct twice a day. But after reading the reviews of how fraudulent the seller has been to other buyers I just didn't want to even give him my money, not to mention if something went seriously wrong with the vehicle I'd be seriously angry with myself for moving ahead knowing full well the kind of seller I was dealing with that day.
Well I passed on those '04's and came across this '06 LX in Houston with 135K miles. 3 owners, 2nd one was a lease. Louisiana and Texas truck. The latest owner traded it in. I pulled the Lexus service records and they are all there, oil changes and all except a couple in the very beginning with the first owner. Highlighted repairs: secondary air injection pump replaced @ 135K, new brake pads and rotors resurfaced @ 133K, CV boots replaced @ 127K, valve cover gasket @ 114K, wheel bearings repacked and new tires at 108K, TB/WP & shocks on rear hatch at 91K.
The exterior looks to be clean, they provided pictures of a couple tiny scratches on the doors and a couple rock/bug chips up front. The salesman swears no rust, they won't sale a rusted car on their lot. The leather looks good but the drivers seat does have a small crack it looks like and the stitching is a bit worn. The drivers arm rest has a worn spot also. The dealer recommended dyeing the seats, don't know about that. There is also a scratch on the glove box and the wood piece with the cup holders.
We agreed on a price of $19,000 baring any issues with the PPI tomorrow with a mobile mechanic. NADA clean retail is $22,650 and Carguru is $20,584 in Austin ($21.9K in Houston). Thoughts?
The exterior looks to be clean, they provided pictures of a couple tiny scratches on the doors and a couple rock/bug chips up front. The salesman swears no rust, they won't sale a rusted car on their lot. The leather looks good but the drivers seat does have a small crack it looks like and the stitching is a bit worn. The drivers arm rest has a worn spot also. The dealer recommended dyeing the seats, don't know about that. There is also a scratch on the glove box and the wood piece with the cup holders.
We agreed on a price of $19,000 baring any issues with the PPI tomorrow with a mobile mechanic. NADA clean retail is $22,650 and Carguru is $20,584 in Austin ($21.9K in Houston). Thoughts?
Long time lurker, have been looking for my 1st LC. I am set on getting a non-nav '98-'99 100 series (can't talk me out of that choice!). I have another vehicle for my commute, so this rig will be strictly for family adventures (wife & 3 dogs). If the vehicle came stock, I had plans to upsize tires 285/75/16 right out of the gate. I have always wanted to build a overland rig (lift, lockers, armor, etc), but the plan was to get to know the truck first... then start slow and build it over a period of 2-3 years.
Ran across this '98 100 series on Craigslist a few days ago and it has totally thrown a wrench in my big plan. Asking price is $14,500. Has ~240k mi on the clock. Mods include ARB front air locker, ARB front bumper, Kaymar rear bumper with wheel carrier, 2.5-3" Old Man lift, Slee diff drop, upper control arms, OPOR sliders, and Toyo Open Country Extreme 33" tires.
Have been communicating with the seller and the wife and I plan to see it this weekend. Most of the relevant information is in the post (link below), but I also learned that it has been a CA truck all of it's life. As far as recent big maintenance, the timing belt, water pump, starter, radiator, spark plugs were replaced at 199k. The current owner bought it with ~220k mi on the clock and all of the modifications were installed by Gary Kardum at Mudrak... which I am told is kind of a big deal. I think the dents add some character, but I'm looking into the possibility of having them pulled out.
What do you guys think about the price? Should I go for it??
1998 Toyota Land Cruiser 100
Ran across this '98 100 series on Craigslist a few days ago and it has totally thrown a wrench in my big plan. Asking price is $14,500. Has ~240k mi on the clock. Mods include ARB front air locker, ARB front bumper, Kaymar rear bumper with wheel carrier, 2.5-3" Old Man lift, Slee diff drop, upper control arms, OPOR sliders, and Toyo Open Country Extreme 33" tires.
Have been communicating with the seller and the wife and I plan to see it this weekend. Most of the relevant information is in the post (link below), but I also learned that it has been a CA truck all of it's life. As far as recent big maintenance, the timing belt, water pump, starter, radiator, spark plugs were replaced at 199k. The current owner bought it with ~220k mi on the clock and all of the modifications were installed by Gary Kardum at Mudrak... which I am told is kind of a big deal. I think the dents add some character, but I'm looking into the possibility of having them pulled out.
What do you guys think about the price? Should I go for it??
1998 Toyota Land Cruiser 100
Sewell Cadillac in Houston.
