Buying "new" 2F: Dilemma

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Sorry this is so long........



My 2F in my FJ40 is tired with compression on two cylinders in the 50s. So I am trying to find a replacement. Here is my first thread about that https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=144650


This is turning into a challenge (finding one close enough). I found one 400 miles away. A guy on Mud is selling it and it is out of an FJ60, asking $275. The Cruiser is being parted and it has 187000 miles on it.

Here's the results from the compression test that he did:
#1 was a little low - approx 95-100, when I added some oil to the cylinder it increased to about 120-125 - so my guess is the rings are a little worn. #2-5 were good - 125-130. #6 was about 150

I think Mark W defines a tired engine with compression below 120 / 115 mark. I know that low compression is low and will require least valve job or new rings

My question (and I know this may be difficult to answer)
1. Should I rebuild my engine
2. Buy a good replacement (having a hard time with this, plus they seem to be $600 - $1000)
3. Buy the engine with the compression numbers above and clean it up.

My budget after the purchase of the engine is less than $500.

Obviously I only have about $800 to spend on all this. I don't think that is enough to fix my current 2F, given the fact that I don't have time to do some of the work.

Could I just spruce up the engine I am thinking about buying? What would I do to it? Would I just replace piston rings, do a valve job, valve guides?

Thanks for the guidance, I really need it.[FONT=&quot]


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Kansastitty
The budget pretty well dictates it. Rings, grind valves, recut seats check head for true and surface as needed and a gasket set eats all that. Main and rod bearings could be done at a later date if oil pressure is low. The FSM shoes you how to check tolerances on the oil pump.
I did a full rebuild on my 2F and the parts and machine work alone was about 14-1500. But that was rebored, pistons/rings cam lifters bearings valve job, etc, etc.
GL

Ed
 

apeterson

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got $1700 in mine... top to bottom.. I did none of the work.... if it were me I would keep trying to fine one closer or keep saving cash... no sense buying somthing that is not good just because you could afford it at the time... you know what I mean?
 
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have you tried a local wrecking yard with a computer search. i have good luck with low mileage 2fs because everyone buys through mud members and the motors sit in the yards forever . dont get me wrong its good to support mud but to buy and engine with 200,000 on it and put more money into it to get it to go to 250,000 and then look for another 1 seems like a lot of work .we got 1 for an fj62 with 80,000 on it for 600.00 that may not be typical but its could be an option good luck
 

John McVicker

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Cheapest would be to try to keep/salvage your present engine. I couldn't tell if those compression #'s were from your engine or one you were considering buying, If all yours needs is a valve job (more about that later) & you can R&R your own head (fairly straightforward) you can get by for $400+/- And have some impressive results.

If you do have a ring problem, just doing a head job will be spining your wheels. To determine if you have a ring problem, 2 seperate test can help you. One is a dry, then wet compression check. If wet #'s are much higher than dry...then you have a ring problem. Like I said, I couldn't tell if you have already done this to your engine. A much better test for you would be a leak down test. Either do it yourself or pay a shop to do it. Should be less than 1 hours time. This is your best bet under your circumstances.

Good luck, John
 
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I just bought a somewhat low mileage FJ60 2F for my 40. Even with shipping included the price remained under 1000 bucks. If it were possible, id keep your current engine.. but if you wait it out you'lle always be able to find a used for a good price here on Mud.
 
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Thanks for the advice!

I think I will work with my engine. Now I have to find a good machinist, figure out prices, and determine if I'll do the whole full blown rebuild or not.

Apeterson --- that sounds like a good price. Did your machinist supply the rebuild kit or did order from Toyota? It seems like everything I’ve seen is at least $1500 just for parts and machining and some upwards $5000.

Now that I look at it, my best bet is to put the money into the engine I have.

Compression Numbers
1 50 / 45
2 110
3 65
4 120
5 105
6 105

I should have done a wet test, but I didn’t and it is 600+ miles away now. I also haven’t done a vacuum test.

I think I will try to find a machinist, see how much it costs, then decide to do a full blown rebuild or not.

So I have seen quite a few rebuild threads, but not much semi-rebuilds of engines. Degnol recommended the following. Anything else that I should get done?

Spruce Up
1. Hone cylinders and put new rings in
2. Grind valves
3. Recut valve seats
4. Check head for true and surface as needed, new gaskets
5. Main and rod bearings could be done at a later date if oil pressure is low.
6. Check tolerances on the oil pump (FSM)
 

Pighead

Stop calling it an FJ
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Y'know, you might just want to pull the head and get a valve job done. Put the head back on and run it. Check the compression again. How many miles on this tired 2F of yours?
 

D'Animal

Rescuer of Beagles & Landcruisers
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Contact Mplatzer here on MUD.

He has one that has been very recently been rebuilt. He dropped a V-8 in his rig and is trying to sell it for a pretty reasonable price.

Shipping it is a matter of shrink wrap and a pallet. It would be coming from th Sacramento, CA area.


Whith shipping, it will still be a whole lot cheaper than rebuiling one. I don't know him and never met him but he might negotiate on price a little.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=145528
 
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Get a referal from Kurt at Cruiser outfitters

Good idea. I also have a list of rebuilders that I looked up.

So, I guess I should get quotes first? I am new to engine rebuilding so this is what I was going to ask for prices. I think I will get a valve job done first, then see how it runs, then proceed. But just in case, I'd like to see the costs of these too.

1. Price for valve job only
2. Price for honing cylinders, new rings, grinding valves, recutting valve seats, checking head, new gaskets (ORder from toyota)
3. Price for full blown rebuild

I am not sure what new parts I'll need or the best place to buy (besides OEM gaskets from Cruiser Dan). I guess I'll call a couple places and see what they say. Do machine shops usually have rebuild kits that use or should I gather it myself?

Thanks for the help
 

Pighead

Stop calling it an FJ
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We rarely say "always" here, but I think I'm safe with this one...
Always have your machinist order the gasket kit and any other parts.
They get good prices and the gasket/parts will fit.
I heard an old LandCruiser pearl of wisdom once, from an old 'Cruiserhead..."ya do your valve job at 200K miles. rebuild the engine at 400K" or something like that. The message being that your top end lasts half as long as your bottom end.
Call around to your list of possible machinists. It's good to ask how many 2Fs they've done. Go with the machinist with the grayest hair. Strip your head of EVERYTHING that isn't head or valves (temp senders, cooling hardware, rocker arms). Take your engine number with you when you visit your machinist.
There are 3 people you never lie to...your Doctor, your Lawyer and your Machinist.
If you don't know, tell them so.
Mention, in an off-hand, casual sort of way that maybe you might even be thinking of sorta kinda maybe even rebuilding the whole engine, if need be. They might loan you the micrometer (while your head is there as collateral) to check your bore. If they do this , you're in the right shop.
Some other things I can think of that you might want while the head is off:
This is the perfect time to inspect your bores and decide on the rings thing...
Prep the top of the block for the clean head
Buy a set of new OEM manifold studs. With the matching washers and nuts.
Check the holes for these studs in the head. This is the perfect time to rethread anything questionable.
Ditto with the intake manifold. Check the carb hold-down stud threads for anything stripped. Repair it now.
Maybe plane your manifolds as a pair to the fresh head? Some people swear by this.
You're also gonna need:
New can of PB Blaster.
Rattle can gloss black hi-temp engine enamel.
1 can of anti-seize, brush in the lid.
The leftovers of the valve grind gasket kit from your machinist.
To send us more pictures of what you find...
Good luck.
 
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I remember reading in TTrails awhile back in the tech section that the 2F had some peculiars to tell a machinest when rebuilding. Anyone remember what they were? Sorry if this is hijacking. ;) thanks, ty
 

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