- Thread starter
- #61
@RoaringFork - Thank you!
Buying a 1997 LX450 - Need advice most humbly
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gofast
SILVER Star
Nice looking rig!
- Thread starter
- #65
Thank you!
All the day has come. I am closing on the Cruiser today. I just wanted to let you all know. Additionally, just so I knew what I was getting into, I had the 80 inspected by Hennessy Lexus here in Atlanta. Obviously, I will not have them do the repair, but well, I figured they would give me the quickest do this and do that listing. So please see attached.
I wanted your opinion on the following:
1. Knuckles leaking
2. Rear Crank main seal
3. Power Steering Pump needs replacement - will address this first.
The rear crank main seal might only be caused by the PCV being clogged. I recently thought my LX450 had the same problem until I got an opinion from a reputable land cruiser specialty shop (Mudrak in Sonoma, CA). I was told to replace the PCV before trying to have the rear main seal fixed. True enough, after replacing the grommet and valve (less than $10) the oil seep was gone. Still could be the main seal but doesn't hurt replacing the PCV first and determining if it really is the rear main seal.
The power steering pump is fairly easy to pull and reseal yourself. IIRC Seal kits are less than $20, spend money on tools as needed. There is a pretty comprehensive write up for almost any repair you will ever need to perform on this site. You will go broke having repairs done for you. I would recommend replacing all the coolant and heater hoses before anything else( there are a lot of them). Those can and do fail and can cause huge issues if you badly overheat the motor. None of the other leaks that have been pointed out will cause any real damage as long as you keep the fluids topped off.
Nice truck and good luck.
Nice truck and good luck.
- Thread starter
- #69
@Funner - Many thanks for the advice. I am going to have the PS rebuilt vs. replaced as it makes more sense. But more on hoses. Where can I learn all the hoses that I need? I will make my Japanese Master Tech install them for me, as I am clueless when it comes to hoses, but wanted to make sure I knew what hoses and clamps to buy. Is there a listing or website which would have like a set ready - or maybe amazon where I could slowly start collected all hoses needed, and then replacing them one by one ?
I agree that these have prob degraded with heat and cold expansions and contractions over 2++ decades.
I appreciate all the advice and will heed it. I just need to know where to look.
Thanks so much.
I agree that these have prob degraded with heat and cold expansions and contractions over 2++ decades.
I appreciate all the advice and will heed it. I just need to know where to look.
Thanks so much.
- Thread starter
- #70
Also -
What is the best oil to always keep handing to keep topping off the rig ? What would you all recommend? I am starting new with this Lexus.... and without knowing too much about the past, I am taking her in for an oil change, and will then start maintaining meticulous records for the rest of her life.
What is the best oil to always keep handing to keep topping off the rig ? What would you all recommend? I am starting new with this Lexus.... and without knowing too much about the past, I am taking her in for an oil change, and will then start maintaining meticulous records for the rest of her life
.
I used OEM hoses for the three main radiator hoses and most are now recommending Gates Green Stripe for the PHH. OEM is fine for the hoses that go to the heater control valve and to the rear heater lines. I used Breeze constant torque clamps for the PHH and I would do that again. I would stay away from the silicone kits that they sell on eBay and Amazon unless they are OEM hoses. As a general rule for baselining this truck, you should develop a relationship with the local Toyota dealer or get good at reading parts diagrams and shopping with McGeorge online.
McGeorge Toyota Parts Online | Your Source for Genuine Toyota online parts | parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
As for oil, there are billion oil threads out there, but I have settled on either 10W30 dino or synth blend in whatever brand is the cheapest and I change at 3000 mile intervals. I just picked up 3, 5 quart jugs of Citgo 10W30 at Fleet Farm on their Presidents Day sale yesterday. The first two were $3 after a $7 mail in rebate. More than happy with the Venezuelan "commie" oil in my rigs.
Stick with Toyota oil filters, keep your eye on the level and change it frequently and you won't have any issues.
If you are using a lot of oil between changes, you probably have bad valve stem seals which isn't a huge deal. A bit of work to get to them, but don't assume the motor needs a rebuild.
McGeorge Toyota Parts Online | Your Source for Genuine Toyota online parts | parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
As for oil, there are billion oil threads out there, but I have settled on either 10W30 dino or synth blend in whatever brand is the cheapest and I change at 3000 mile intervals. I just picked up 3, 5 quart jugs of Citgo 10W30 at Fleet Farm on their Presidents Day sale yesterday. The first two were $3 after a $7 mail in rebate. More than happy with the Venezuelan "commie" oil in my rigs.
Stick with Toyota oil filters, keep your eye on the level and change it frequently and you won't have any issues.If you are using a lot of oil between changes, you probably have bad valve stem seals which isn't a huge deal. A bit of work to get to them, but don't assume the motor needs a rebuild.
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I recommend that you change the oil yourself. It is very easy on these rigs, and it gives you an opportunity to inspect for other issues. Also I don't trust oil change places after stripped oil drain plugs, over filling (which is very bad), not changing filters, not tightening drain plugs, over tightening oil filters and the list goes on.... Plus if you love her, you will rub her belly from time to time.
I run full synthetic mobil 1 5w30 and toyota oil filter and change between 3k and 5k. <--no i know that is often, I don't care.
I run full synthetic mobil 1 5w30 and toyota oil filter and change between 3k and 5k. <--no i know that is often, I don't care.
Most of the hoses are just 5/8” ID I think two are 1/2” and you can just buy a bulk length at the parts store and cut each one to fit. Just make sure you get good quality like gates green stripe or Napa gold. There are some molded 90 degree IIRC and I believe two molded 1/4 inch. It’s also fairly likely that your mechanic will damage the old heater control valve while doing the work and if the air intake tube is original it will likely get cracked while doing this work.
- Thread starter
- #75
I just got the rig tagged... on my way out on a finally sunny day in Atlanta noted all the top trim was cracking like old rice. What are these trim mouldings called? And any good sources to find them from please? I will need it for both the left and ride sides. Not sure how they are attached or if epoxy'd or bolted.
Thank you
Thank you
What is your level of mechanical skill/experience? I ask because an oil change is such a basic level of wrenching that should be fairly self evident if you have ever done any kind of work on cars or any other combustion engine?
I am not in any way trying be harsh, but it would certainly alter my recommendations on what you should or shouldn’t attempt at this point.
- Thread starter
- #78
@Funner - Not harsh at all. I wish I knew more. I have done it once as it is simply a drain and fill. Worked on an older Acura back in the day, but now my other cars are all under warranty and dealer maintained, so I am rusty.
Seeing the truck sits so tall, I guess I will not need ramps, and would like to change the oil myself so that I can do it more often, and use the products I want.
I am open to suggestions and genuinely appreciate the help!
Seeing the truck sits so tall, I guess I will not need ramps, and would like to change the oil myself so that I can do it more often, and use the products I want.
I am open to suggestions and genuinely appreciate the help!
@ROCKFOX Everyone has their own opinion on oil, some are based more on science others on tradition and some just on experience. Personally the only one I avoid is Pennzoil. I like Full Synthetic but some people recommend against it as some gaskets/seals were not designed with it in mind. There are a lot of threads on it, and you will read some pretty crazy stuff but there are good recommendations. DO NOT expect to get 10k out of any oil in these rigs, they weren't designed to go that long and well you will run out of oil if you have the Toyota rustproofing that most of us enjoy. About the Drip molding,, most people remove it and just clean that area up as there is paint under it and it looks better generally without the molding.
This sounds like your hobby vehicle so you aren't going to break something and miss work etc, so don't worry about breaking things, you have time to fix them and this forum will show you how to fix anything with just a few searches.
Download a PDF of the factory service manual...lexus version and toyota version are not that hard to find. In short loosen the oil cap, put a oil drain pan under the drain plug. remove the plug... (practice will make this part cleaner with time), let it drain out. Then on the drivers side of the engine get two hands on the oil filter and twist it counter clockwise (might need to wiggle your ears and grit your teeth to get it loose) YOu can also use oil filter wrench. I cut the bottom off of a 1 gallon water jug and made a notch to slid under the filter so it catches the oil that comes out of the filter (others may have better suggestions). I unscrew the filter and make the gasket from the old filter touch the new gasket on the new filter. (This applies oil to the new filter gasket which is required). Screw on the new filter (i do mine two hand tight, some people do them tighter, but don't over do it or it will be hard to get off and someone will have to show you the screw driver method).
Put the drain plug back in (recommended you use a new drain plug crush washer that is very cheap) and torque down to factory recommendations (if you are in to that sort of thing). put in about 7.8 quarts of your selected oil (just gauge using the dipstick). I keep a quart or two in the battery box for backup later. Put the oil cap back on and tighten by hand. double check the oil level later to make sure it all settled well after driving <--this will make you feel better until you've done it a few times. Take the old oil and put it in containers for recycling at autoparts stores(Free) or a recycling center (free) you might even be able to take oil filters someone else can chime in there.
This sounds like your hobby vehicle so you aren't going to break something and miss work etc, so don't worry about breaking things, you have time to fix them and this forum will show you how to fix anything with just a few searches.
Download a PDF of the factory service manual...lexus version and toyota version are not that hard to find. In short loosen the oil cap, put a oil drain pan under the drain plug. remove the plug... (practice will make this part cleaner with time), let it drain out. Then on the drivers side of the engine get two hands on the oil filter and twist it counter clockwise (might need to wiggle your ears and grit your teeth to get it loose) YOu can also use oil filter wrench. I cut the bottom off of a 1 gallon water jug and made a notch to slid under the filter so it catches the oil that comes out of the filter (others may have better suggestions). I unscrew the filter and make the gasket from the old filter touch the new gasket on the new filter. (This applies oil to the new filter gasket which is required). Screw on the new filter (i do mine two hand tight, some people do them tighter, but don't over do it or it will be hard to get off and someone will have to show you the screw driver method).
Put the drain plug back in (recommended you use a new drain plug crush washer that is very cheap) and torque down to factory recommendations (if you are in to that sort of thing). put in about 7.8 quarts of your selected oil (just gauge using the dipstick). I keep a quart or two in the battery box for backup later. Put the oil cap back on and tighten by hand. double check the oil level later to make sure it all settled well after driving <--this will make you feel better until you've done it a few times. Take the old oil and put it in containers for recycling at autoparts stores(Free) or a recycling center (free) you might even be able to take oil filters someone else can chime in there.
Look at what's directly below the oil filter. Put shop rags on top of the axle where the oil will inevitably drip when you remove the filter.
Use a chisel or screwdriver to put a small puncture in the oil filter while draining the oil to reduce the amount that pours out when you remove the filter.
Be prepared to get creative when removing the old filter, since most people overtightened them. It's in a somewhat awkward location, so it can be tricky.
If you want to have the filter mounted vertically to reduce the mess and maybe reduce startup rattle, you can use a Ford 90 degree filter adapter.
Use a chisel or screwdriver to put a small puncture in the oil filter while draining the oil to reduce the amount that pours out when you remove the filter.
Be prepared to get creative when removing the old filter, since most people overtightened them. It's in a somewhat awkward location, so it can be tricky.
If you want to have the filter mounted vertically to reduce the mess and maybe reduce startup rattle, you can use a Ford 90 degree filter adapter.
