Builds BurntToast's FJ62 Build "Hoss" (10 Viewers)

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Replace with an early LS2 dampener. You have a late model with a trash tensioner as I like to call it.

J

My limited googling agrees. LS3
tensioner.jpg

LS2 that will be replacing it



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The reason the design changed was that the LS2 version was wearing (after 80K miles on avg) and the chain became noisy. So they reversed and made it a tensioner and added; IIRC a hard phenolic plastic cover on stamped spring steel.

The plastic breaks off after prolonged high heat; jambs in the chain and snaps the spring steel and the result is what you have now.

J
 
The reason the design changed was that the LS2 version was wearing and chain became noisy. So they reversed and made it a tensioner and added; IIRC a hard phenolic plastic cover on stamped spring steel.

The plastic breaks off after prolonged high heat; jambs in the chain and snaps the spring steel and the result is what you have now.

J
Damn engineers, oh wait…

well I’m going to take this opportunity to clean everything up, DOD delete will replace lifters and cam and valley cover. New cam coming from cam motion at some point. Going to do the trunnion upgrade. Gonna keep it relatively mild. (my last car had an 600HP NA LS7 and it was rough at low speed)

212/222 Duration @ .050''
113 LSA, 110.5 ICL (113+2.5)
.553''/.553'' Lift with 1.7 rockers

I think I’m just gonna send it with the dings and dents on the bottom end
 
Damn engineers, oh wait…

well I’m going to take this opportunity to clean everything up, DOD delete will replace lifters and cam and valley cover. New cam coming from cam motion at some point. Going to do the trunnion upgrade. Gonna keep it relatively mild. (my last car had an 600HP NA LS7 and it was rough at low speed)

212/222 Duration @ .050''
113 LSA, 110.5 ICL (113+2.5)
.553''/.553'' Lift with 1.7 rockers

I think I’m just gonna send it with the dings and dents on the bottom end

Pretty close to the stock 3 cam specs. I prefer a tad more lobe sep and 115/117 and a slight taller exh duration for higher rpms. It slightly reduced low end but the top end keeps sending it to the ground.

After that hardened spring steel bounced around a bit I would soften those cast openings to make sure nothing chips off later. Double cut burr bit and 10 minutes for future safety, just my .02.

J
 
Damn engineers, oh wait…

well I’m going to take this opportunity to clean everything up, DOD delete will replace lifters and cam and valley cover. New cam coming from cam motion at some point. Going to do the trunnion upgrade. Gonna keep it relatively mild. (my last car had an 600HP NA LS7 and it was rough at low speed)

212/222 Duration @ .050''
113 LSA, 110.5 ICL (113+2.5)
.553''/.553'' Lift with 1.7 rockers

I think I’m just gonna send it with the dings and dents on the bottom end
It's not always the engineer, it's often a 'Management Directive.'
 
Damn engineers, oh wait…

well I’m going to take this opportunity to clean everything up, DOD delete will replace lifters and cam and valley cover. New cam coming from cam motion at some point. Going to do the trunnion upgrade. Gonna keep it relatively mild. (my last car had an 600HP NA LS7 and it was rough at low speed)

212/222 Duration @ .050''
113 LSA, 110.5 ICL (113+2.5)
.553''/.553'' Lift with 1.7 rockers

I think I’m just gonna send it with the dings and dents on the bottom end
Definitely just keep going with it as is on the bottom end
 
For the down and dirty on a known level block, can use a sanding block with 400 on it, spray on some WD40, and then get to it. No need to go crazy. have done this many times with great success. Heads obviously get decked professionally
 
Got more disassembled and lots of gaskets on order. Intake has this foam between it and its facade. Back half was soaked in oil and there was a lot of oil in the intake

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Even the throttle body has caked on oil that’s almost hard. feels dirty for a port injection motor? Could be normal and I’m just unaware

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Slowly cleaning the t-case parts in prep for rebuild

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Speaking of rebuild, t-case parts are arriving. Thanks @cruisermatt


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Picked up a 20ton shop press on FB marketplace. Gotta use a new project as an excuse for new tools ;)

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I also cleaned up the throttle body, this took entirely way to much time/mineral spirits/brake clean.

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Lastly got some nice motor mounts and associated GM mounts from @cruisermatt. also lots of gaskets and replacement parts for the LS2.5 (I know it’s an L76 but it’s basically an LS2 with LS3 head casting, etc)

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More goodies have arrived! Custom Cam and añl the parts to delete DOD/AFM. I’m starting to understand why people buy the Chevy crate LS3 too…. ah building is more fun anyway

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Small stuff while waiting for more parts. Replaced all the bearings on the Tcase shaft, and bent the snap ring in the process. Cruiser Matt to the rescue on parts

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for future reference this is a perfect tool to get the needle bearing out of the end


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Heads came back from the machine shop with new springs so let’s get building.
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My pops came over to supervise, went with the H3 pan, Melling 10296 pump, LS2 tensioner. All new front and rear seals. Every seal is new as they get replaced

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I was on hour 10 and decided I could run the 10-250ft/lb torque wrench to 8 ft-lbs for the intake manifold bolts. Mistakes were made. Guess the rest of the weekend is getting this out

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Heads came back from the machine shop with new springs so let’s get building.
View attachment 3466768
My pops came over to supervise, went with the H3 pan, Melling 10296 pump, LS2 tensioner. All new front and rear seals. Every seal is new as they get replaced

View attachment 3466769

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I was on hour 10 and decided I could run the 10-250ft/lb torque wrench to 8 ft-lbs for the intake manifold bolts. Mistakes were made. Guess the rest of the weekend is getting this out

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Got a mig welder? Thats aluminum. If you use er70s-6 wire for mild steel on a nut that will fit in there somehow you can try doing that. The question is... what nut can you get in there haha


I might get some hate for this... but get some black FIPG and put it around the rubber "gasket" on that oilpan on the side where it mates to the block. Every single one of those ive ever installed has leaked until i started putting the FIPG on them. Run a very thin bead and put a good sized goop in the corners. They like to leak in the middle of the longer straight side on the passenger side. Since I started doing the FIPG, none have leaked and mine and the one other that i had to drop the pan to apply it.. havent leaked again either
 

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