there's a guy on here who sell a new replacement gasket for the lights
Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?
- Thread starter Gusb
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- Thread starter
- #1,062
Funny, I thought about doing that after going through the whole original felt research thing. But this stuff warms up on the floor just like the original tar paper - mine is already showing a little markup pattern from my feet on the rubber mat - kind of just like the factory stuff. So I bet it would just get flatter with the weight of the gas tank. I ended up glueing some neoprene down with 3M weather strip sealant.
Can you share where you sourced the neoprene? I'd hate to cut up my wetsuit... great build thread btw
- Thread starter
- #1,064
I can't speak to how appropriate this stuff is but here's a link on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CGY40US/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stuff smells a little but is easy to cut.
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
Hi Gusb,
What did you use to make the multi-piece, weatherstrip-bonded neoprene gasket for the tranny cover? Did you use the black 3M bonding stuff? Was it cut from the square pieces in the above post?
What did you use to make the multi-piece, weatherstrip-bonded neoprene gasket for the tranny cover? Did you use the black 3M bonding stuff? Was it cut from the square pieces in the above post?
Specter sells a gasket kit for the tranny and it comes with new screws as well.
- Thread starter
- #1,067
Cut from that roll of Amazon neoprene (not the sound proofing stuff for the floor). Years ago when I half-donkeed the first floor cleanup I used that self-adhering camper foam stuff but when I pulled the hump this time it had not held up very well. I think the Toyota factory had used some kind of black foam/glue that had kind of deteriorated too. The neoprene measured more or less the depth of the flange on the tranny cover, so I went with that and the 3M weather-strip adhesive. Only occurred to me later to use it for gas tank pads. I assume it's sealed the tranny cover and will hold up but time will tell I guess. One nice thing is the neoprene backs up the bolt pressure on the cover - not so easy to collapse the lip metal. Replacement tranny cover bolts are available from Toyota too.
- Thread starter
- #1,068
Finishing up that patch on the hardtop (passenger side rear). Not perfect - probably a skim coat of filler in order.
- Thread starter
- #1,069
A current day Victor #J28 body next to two older J27s, one with a paper label (newer/unused) and what looks to be a really old one with knurled knobs. #Victor #tools #torch #J27 #J40 #Meco #Aviator
- Thread starter
- #1,070
Take a licking and keep on ticking/out in the urban wild
- Thread starter
- #1,071
Timing gear cover mystery. When I first bought the 40 and replaced all the cooling system stuff, I had noticed a lot of PO red RTV stuff around the timing gear cover. Later I sort of traced a lot of the oil on the garage floor coming from that area when the engine was hot. I assumed some sort of half-donkey repair had taken place in the past. Now I'm finally pulling everything to try and figure out what's going on with the leak, and what someone was doing in there in the first place, etc.
Closer inspection showed a few bangs on the pulley and and a few stripped bolts (smaller, in the block plate) in that RTV mess on the cover's bolt pattern, shorter on where it should be longer and so on. Most of the oil leak seemed to be right on the bottom where the 2 larger bolts go through the brazed plate on the cover and things meet the oil pan front. I've now pulled the timing cover and sure enough there was no stock gasket on the cover (just the red RTV) and the main round seal used is labeled "National Spain" and does not look right, does not seem deep enough - not like Toyota anyway.
The strange thing is some wear on the seal housing area in the timing cover and some odd wear on the pulley shaft where it looks like it hit and rubbed the housing at some point. Also the oil slinger has wear around it's ID and was sort of locked up next to the gear and a pain to pull off the shaft. The inside gear area looks clean and I'm trying to determine if whoever had the cover off went any deeper - seems to be the proper paper gasket behind the plate on the block. And there's no metal chips from all the wear I can see - inside the cover area/gears seem very clean.
So what could have happened, could the crank pulley have come loose at some point? The crank shaft seems really clean. Can't figure out what would grind away on the oil slinger that way? Note the marks on the gear. There are even rotational grind marks in the bottom of the seal seat. Maybe the front seal started to leak and someone pulled everything and then reassembled incorrectly and then pulled it apart again when the noise started - it must have made noise? Maybe they tightened the cover out of alignment and banged the pulley back on rubbing against the housing? Even though some of that red stuff looks like it may be behind the plate (between plate/block) I don't think the plate was off - will try to take a closer look. Again, the pulley has a good ding or two, but that could just be from these guys messing with it.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Closer inspection showed a few bangs on the pulley and and a few stripped bolts (smaller, in the block plate) in that RTV mess on the cover's bolt pattern, shorter on where it should be longer and so on. Most of the oil leak seemed to be right on the bottom where the 2 larger bolts go through the brazed plate on the cover and things meet the oil pan front. I've now pulled the timing cover and sure enough there was no stock gasket on the cover (just the red RTV) and the main round seal used is labeled "National Spain" and does not look right, does not seem deep enough - not like Toyota anyway.
The strange thing is some wear on the seal housing area in the timing cover and some odd wear on the pulley shaft where it looks like it hit and rubbed the housing at some point. Also the oil slinger has wear around it's ID and was sort of locked up next to the gear and a pain to pull off the shaft. The inside gear area looks clean and I'm trying to determine if whoever had the cover off went any deeper - seems to be the proper paper gasket behind the plate on the block. And there's no metal chips from all the wear I can see - inside the cover area/gears seem very clean.
So what could have happened, could the crank pulley have come loose at some point? The crank shaft seems really clean. Can't figure out what would grind away on the oil slinger that way? Note the marks on the gear. There are even rotational grind marks in the bottom of the seal seat. Maybe the front seal started to leak and someone pulled everything and then reassembled incorrectly and then pulled it apart again when the noise started - it must have made noise? Maybe they tightened the cover out of alignment and banged the pulley back on rubbing against the housing? Even though some of that red stuff looks like it may be behind the plate (between plate/block) I don't think the plate was off - will try to take a closer look. Again, the pulley has a good ding or two, but that could just be from these guys messing with it.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Incorrect Crank Pulley replaced at some point?
- Thread starter
- #1,073
Maybe... but why would this one (which I think is correct) show deep gorge marks on the pulley where it meets the seal. Seems like the pulley was there for the calamity - whatever that was?
New to this forum, glad to have stumbled on this thread, its amazing! Bought a rusty fj40 that has been all hacked up over the years, was checking it out last night getting overwhelmed and what did I see... Would have had no clue this was a sought after item.
- Thread starter
- #1,075
It can be overwhelming - especially later in the day. I sometimes need to step away for a while and then come back to it.
- Thread starter
- #1,076
Still trying to understand what may have gone on inside the timing cover. The large countersunk flat screws in the plate are almost loose. They looked like they may have been staked at some point but no longer are and appear to have been removed at some point. That probably wouldn't have helped with the oil leak either. Also from what I can see behind the plate the gasket doesn't look "right". I guess the plate (which I need to Helicoil a few holes at the least) needs to come off for a proper fix, new gasket etc. From the manuals it seems the camshaft needs to come out along with the crank gear. This means the lifters need to come out. I've pulled the distributor/fuel pump/lifters cover and now wondering how far I go before putting the lid back on the can of worms? The Lifter Cover looked like it was never off before (needs a new gasket now). The Camshaft gear looks like it may have had a puller on the center shaft area at some point. Would someone have removed the cam gear without removing it/lifters fron the engine? So to get the lifters/cam out, how far do I need to go up top to get the push rods out of the way? Just remove the rocker assembly to pull the push rods? Or should I stop, button everything up and forget trying to put that plate gasket on. I know the leak situation will be improved but not completely eliminated.
Just fix it, you can’t live with yourself if you don’t.
- Thread starter
- #1,078
Toughest part of this job might be getting the old, baked-on gasket material from the lifter cover off the block.
You can try the plastic gasket scrapers and for the stubern areas a razor blade.
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
Or you can use the 3M Roloc non woven discs made for this stuff. They come in different sizes and hardness, from light grey for aluminum to brown for smoothing mild steel welds. You might want to try the blue or the maroon. Definitely cover the area inside the gasket with plastic and tape to keep the roloc fibers and old gasket material out.
3M also has the roloc bristle discs that do the same.
Good luck.
3M also has the roloc bristle discs that do the same.
Good luck.
