Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?

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Blue77FJ40 said:
Or you can use the 3M Roloc non woven discs made for this ...
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Thanks Blue77FJ40.

I love the 3M Roloc discs - used a lot of green (grinder and plastic) ones on body work. Only thing here is I don't like the idea of blowing that stuff all over the engine with everything together. I'm trying to cover everything up as much as possible to keep the lifter areas clean, etc.

Just ordered a cheap razor scraper on Amazon - the one I have is junk.
Also ordered an SK "Hand Tool 6652 Offset scraper". Never had any luck with the plastic razor blades. There's a nice set of carbide scrapers but I started wondering why scrape the block with something harder than the casting - even tool steel is hard enough scratch/cut? Found an old wood-handled stiff putty knife that is soft enough to file a 90 degree flat cutting edge on, it seems to work great. May need to keep sharpening it but soft enough to hopefully not muck the block up too much. Seems like the solvent gasket removers get mixed reviews?

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In the process of pulling the lifters, this one came out in 2 pieces with what must have been a developing crack and now looks like a perfectly new break? Don't see any scoring to speak of on the block bore but will look closer.

Can I just check/measure the cam and buy a single lifter (comparing diameter measurements to the old one) from Toyota, or do I need to buy all 12 new lifters and worry about break-in, how the cam will react to that upgrade, etc. etc.? Are there other issues I should look at? Backlash on the timing gear seems to be at .0035". Did I save anything down the road by finding this, I assume a 2 piece lifter bouncing around would not be good at any engine RPM?

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Got the crank gear off and pulled the end plate. All three big flat head screws were loose and not staked. The gasket on the block almost looks home made or cut from the wrong gasket anyway. Note the oil channel that goes to the little oiler post has gasket material blocking it. And should that opening (to the oil pan?) on the bottom be blocked like that? Is that a broken-off bolt in one of the longer bolt hole locations? Kind of a mess.

More "crash" clues too - three places on the plate that were hidden under the cam gear. Could some gear teeth or something else broken off and knocked around in the timing cover? Maybe making enough noise that they shut everything down before too much damage occurred?

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You're getting dangerously close to the infamous rabbit hole!
 
It certainly does happen! 3 years ago I had a blown head gasket...3 years later, no front end on the vehicle, no seats or steering column in the vehicle, new brakes front and rear, new parts from the radiator to parking brake pads, including clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, rear seal, oil pan gaskets...it never ends! Good luck with your engine Gusb.
 
fj401978 said:
It certainly does happen! 3 years ago I had a blown head gasket...3 years later, no front end on the vehicle, no seats or steering column in the vehicle, new brakes front and rear, new parts from the radiator to parking brake pads, including clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, rear seal, oil pan gaskets...it never ends! Good luck with your engine Gusb.
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I was just adjusting valves, next thing I know I'm wire brushing the bare frame.
 
Jim Beach
A week ago last Saturday I lost my #1 Landcruiser buddy, friend and teacher, Jim Beach. I'm only posting this here (with permission from the family) because I know many of you have known him (kiwidog) on/through Mud. Jim and I met through Mud and spent many hours/days together (when he was on "holiday" trips to Half Moon Bay, CA). He was a true Landcruiser fanatic and a special friend in many other ways. The loss/shock is hard to put in words. Below is a message from his wife Anne.

"July 04, 1951 - July 27, 2019
It is with saddened hearts we are saying goodbye to our loving husband, father, and friend to many. Jim passed away suddenly on July 27, 2019. He is survived by his loving wife of 40 years, Anne, his son Jesse and daughter-in-law Lisa, sister Margot and her husband Ken, his beloved Mimi and grand doggy Koda, as well as many family and friends. Jim had too many passions and talents to name but above all was his love for Toyota Landcruisers."

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Thanks for your thought @fj401978.

That was a broken 6mm bolt in block. Someone had a short bolt glued on the top cover with the red stuff, covering up the evidence I guess. So on the cover there was one stripped 6mm thread bolt and two missing. Again the three big flat screws on the end plate were loose too.

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The end plate looks a bit rough for a Toyota part, stamped-out without much deburring? I thought I had seen one of these somewhere on Mud that was machined/fly-cut on the block side? One 6mm thread that needs a Helicoil and everything else I'll try to clean up a bit. Note another "rotational" gouge on the block/back side of the plate. Could this be related to whatever happened on the gear side?

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Measured the cam as well as I could and it seems OK to my untrained eye. Thrust seems good. Getting lobe measurements like 1.515, 1.508 in. Journals measure like 1.8890, 1.8300, 1.7710 and 1.7115 in.

There is some discoloration (see previous picts) which I don't know how to read but nothing that looks like serious pitting, etc.

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Did some hammer/dolly work on the timing cover. Rattled-canned it and banged the new seal in. Like I had thought, the Toyota seal was larger (deeper) than the Spanish one the PO had stuck in there before.

Cleaned everything with acetone and put together some temporary hardware for the areas on the cover that thread into the block. My idea was to get the end plate securely on the block and approach sealing the timing cover later as a separate task. Used gasket sealant from Permatex (#80062) on both sides of the Toyota gasket. Don't know if that stuff is proper but like what it does so far. Used a big screwdriver and adjustable wrench to get the stock flat screws in tight (decided to pass on the torx - long story) and staked them as best I could. Added blue Loctite to the 2 large bolts. So the plate is in place with additional temp screws tightened a bit in the "cover related" block holes.

Banged the crank gear back on, hard to tell how far on it goes. Oiled up the cam and carefully tried to slide it back in without hurting the bearings. Strange trip dealing with that cam and not knowing what you're doing. Lined up the marks, got the cam home and torqued the 2 cam bolts with more blue Loctite. Oiled up each lifter and put them back in the holes they came from. A couple needed a few delicate moves before they would side back in. The replacement lifter went in with what felt like a good fit.

Cleaned the push rods with acetone and oiled each one before they went back in the same holes. Earlier I had covered the lifter areas and pushed a wipe through each hole (in the head) to knock out the chunks of gunk that were in there. Wiped the rocker assembly and got it back on and torqued down. Still had trouble remembering how to adjust the valves. Had to go back to my old post from 10 years back :). Went through all the valves twice, checking everything - cold of course at this point.

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Gusb said:
Anyone have a spare lock washer (NLA) the big claw nut uses for sale. Marks Off Road @65swb45 lists 030-03 Locktab washer but has a $100 minimum on the website. SOR, I need to pay UPS $15 to get a $13 washer. Any other sources out there? Thanks

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You might give Cruiser Outfitters a try. Here's the page that has the lockwashers and other front end components, separate and kit form.

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Blue77FJ40 said:
You might give Cruiser Outfitters a try. Here's the page that has the lockwashers and other front end components, separate and kit form.

Cruiser Outfitters
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The lock washer he needs is for the crankshaft nut under the timing chain cover. I looked at Cruiser Outfitters engine parts page and they don't show it, however, it might pay to call them, they do have some parts not listed, and they will try to find what you need, new or used. I thought I had one off of a 1979 2f that has a hole in the side of the motor (from a junk '40 I bought many years ago), but it is missing. Good luck!
 
fj401978 said:
The lock washer he needs is for the crankshaft nut under the timing chain cover. I looked at Cruiser Outfitters engine parts page and they don't show it, however, it might pay to call them, they do have some parts not listed, and they will try to find what you need, new or used. I thought I had one off of a 1979 2f that has a hole in the side of the motor (from a junk '40 I bought many years ago), but it is missing. Good luck!
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Thanks for setting me straight, '78, I thought that lock washer looked way different. This may be a project for Racer65. Couldn't hurt to give him a shout. Has Jim Chenowith been contacted? He's another super knowledgeable cruiser mechanic located in Ohio.

Also, someone with strong JDM contacts would be sweet, especially in the manufacturing end. I wonder if the forklift industry may have an idea...
 
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My manuals show a torque of 116-145 on the crank nut. I think I've read somewhere of going higher? My old Craftsman wrench only goes to 150, so I tried for 150, hopefully that's good enough. Put together a quick/dirty SST for holding the pulley. My pulley is a little woofed-up from the PO but this seemed to hold it without creating any additional damage. Please don't critique those welds, I said quick/dirty. Banged all the lock tabs down on the nut, some guys only do a few according to alignment?

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