Building Bulletproof Axles (1 Viewer)

[sleeoffroad]

I'm not being argumentative, Christo, since we all know the level of expertise I have (edited: if it wasn't evident, in humor), but think there's a sliding scale on value perception.

Added smiley faces for you

Personally, if I could've replaced the housing for double the amount I spent on the cobble-a-thon double, double cardan, I'd have considered it worth the cost and effort, if it were the end all to the great caster debate.

The problem is that you need to get the pinion angle and caster spot on. Not an easy process, and impossible to do with a pre-fab housing that all done at the manufacturer. We did that when we built the White Rhino and the Blueberry. We used a Diamond housing, set it all up with correct pinion angle / caster, then verified with caster sweep and then final welded. Not going to work for the average DIY.

This is how we set the caster Since caster is not a direct angle measurement, you have to do all this, then put it on an alignment rack and do a sweep to get exact measurement. Putting an angle finder on it gives you an approx value. Those balls are pressed into the housing and they are a bitch to rotate once they are in place.

So a prefab housing would be nice, but you can not do a one fits all housing.

Plus, I wouldn't be faced with trying to cobble hydro through the cobbled arms.
Bandaid, upon bandaid, upon bandaid, in my case.

Hydro is always an issue to fit. Doesn't matter where you fit it. We did it on the drag-link on the Blueberry and it worked decently.

PS, this last photo was taken on day 5 of the Ultimate Adventure. This is not how you want to see your truck. Broke the front diff fdr the 2nd time on the trip, as well as one of the rear axle shafts. Stupid thing twisted due to E-locker and we had to cut the actuator fork apart to get it out. We had to leave the trail with 1 wheel drive. We replaced the ring and pinion in the front twice in 5 days.

And the rust, that was from 1 day in the mud at General Sams off-road park. That was some nasty stuff. The truck was on 40" tires with 7 " of lift and the mud was up to the hood.

 

[TheBigBoy]

Added smiley faces for you



The problem is that you need to get the pinion angle and caster spot on. Not an easy process, and impossible to do with a pre-fab housing that all done at the manufacturer. We did that when we built the White Rhino and the Blueberry. We used a Diamond housing, set it all up with correct pinion angle / caster, then verified with caster sweep and then final welded. Not going to work for the average DIY.

Exactly right.. Its not as easy as everyone thinks it is.

 

[TheBigBoy]

Yes, we did the same thing when we built the Blueberry. I am just not convinced running the 9.5" gear on the coast side is strong enough. We blew that up the first day on the Ultimate Adventure. I would run the True-Hi9 diff with a fabricated housing.

I did this to see what it would be like on my comp truck. A friend shimmed the crap out of the 60 LSD rear centre for me. And I ran it in the front on the coast side = Not a good idea.

 

[TheBigBoy]

Here's 1 I just punched out for a guy 2 days ago. Im doing another housing version for myself again over this next week.

 

[Douglas S]

I can see the knuckles and hi steer, just would never go to a 60 birfield on a 80. That would be a lot of work to go backwards. That means you need balls from a 60 axle to put the smaller knuckles on the axle.

If I go that far, I would rather do what Carl is doing with a new fabricated housing.

That's what I was thinking...a fabricated housing. The stock ones seem somewhat susceptible to bending.

 

[Delancy]

Added smiley faces for you

Haha.

I'm more familiar with typing text for emoticons on iPhone, like

I'll be sure to add more often.

The problem is that you need to get the pinion angle and caster spot on. Not an easy process, and impossible to do with a pre-fab housing that all done at the manufacturer.

So a prefab housing would be nice, but you can not do a one fits all housing.

If the criteria were established based on lift height, would it vary anymore than that?

Realize that'd take time to determine for a producer, but would think possible....,,, don't know about profitable.

Hydro is always an issue to fit. We did it on the drag-link and it worked decently.

Be the easiest spot for me to locate. Can't recall who suggested highly against, nor why, but first 80 I'd seen it there on.

Stupid thing twisted due to E-locker and we had to cut the actuator fork apart to get it out.

We're all hoping this aids in removal, WHEN not IF.



Swapping next free day, and will replicate on the new one that I've been running.

Not wanting to start a ih8rick s*** storm, but have spoken to two other small time wrenches and both say the wear pattern fits within the measurements I gave.

We'll see. Probably wont have to wait to long to test the theory, since the Krawler's hook up on anything and I'm not the most graceful wheeler.

 

[Toyoland66]

Lumpy has dragged me over to the 80's section.

After researching this topic for... ever... here's the ultimate 80 series based Land Cruiser axles.

Front:
Ruff-stuff housing with full size ring gear.
ARB Locker, cryo'd 4.88's, or 5.29's if that's your style.
Longfield 30 spline axles shafts, birfs and hub gear
HellFire fabworks knuckles and arms.
Evolution Machine hydro tie-rod.
Tundra brake callipers.
6 dowel hub/axle upgrade.

Rear:
factory FF 80 series housing.
Detroit locker
Poly Performance axle shafts.
6 dowel hub/axle upgrade

This plus solid pinion spacers, jantz engineering ring gear load bolts, 100 series 10mm hub studs, and longfield lifetime knuckle wipers.

Does anybody have a link for the tundra brake calipers - I didnt realize these were compatible with the 80 front brakes.

Also can someone post a link with the 6 dowel hub upgrade, I didnt think this was possible on the front due to the scalloped wheel hubs.

Another item I have wondered about are rock rings for the knuckle wipers - similar to what trail gear offers for the mini axles:

http://www.trail-gear.com/rock-ring-knuckle-felt-protectors

Does anybody make something similar for the 80?

 

[Land Speeder]

Holy crap that's Awesome! LOL!

 

[Land Speeder]

I've experimented with "backyard building" an axle... trying to figure out how to eliminate the fuse that is the front axle... And if the parts are being replaced by custom parts, at what point do you just skip trying to keep it "toyota" even with custom housings, difs, shafts... and just go to an indestructible axle?:

 

[Delancy]

at what point do you just skip trying to keep it "toyota"

Been the debate, personally. Have tried to avoid the Ship of Theseus, but not sure why.

 

[Land Speeder]

Been the debate, personally. Have tried to avoid the Ship of Theseus, but not sure why.

The factory axles are beautiful, beautiful pieces of art that have function and form. They can take abuse for any environment that requires 35" tires or less. Once you "jump"... only you know how high you're willing to go.

 

[MCB Parts]

I just finished building my 96 axles. Factory Elocked

Front Nitro 4:88 and Nitro axles, rest is toyota OE fully rebuilt.

Rear Nitro 4:88 and Nitro axles rest is toyota OE

Now i am worried about the axle studs/pins

Does anyone have a link to which studs and pins to get? I would prefer to NOT tap and drill so what are my options? I have a TON of $$$ in this rebuild

Its not a DD and won't see much highway use, i run 35" KM2 and plan to supercharge at some point

 

[Tapage]

We replaced the ring and pinion in the front twice in 5 days.

mix of weight, engine output and tires .?

I mean been kicking my front 9.5 ass several years now .. even manage to broke and old RD02 that was in there since 2002 and my R&P survive all off that ..

well all in all with my 60 hp engine I can't complain ..

 

[Delancy]

I have a TON of $$$ in this rebuild

Boohoo.

Opted from Front Range Off Road's ARP hub and knuckle studs.



Hub studs are sold per axle. Unscrew the OE and these threaded right in.

Edited: Since sarcasm is difficult to relay in text and everyone is so sensitive, I was jokingly lamenting.

You're preaching to the choir when it comes to axle, well build, monies here.

 

[MCB Parts]

Thanks, just ordered a front and rear stud kit! In stock!

 

[Delancy]

Thanks, just ordered a front and rear stud kit! In stock!

Don't forget the wheels studs, the next point of failure.

Hahahaha.

The IS300 studs press in, but they're too long ( as seen in previous pic) and should be shortened.

The front wheel studs would've made better sense to have done at axle rebuild, considering.

 

[MCB Parts]

Ahhhh....didn't have a clue studs were an issue! Guess i will take my chances for now with them as its all assembled and done!

Next time im in there i will do the studs.

 

[Douglas S]

I've always thought that a TrueHi9 front with RCV shafts and 60 outers would be the ultimate Toyota 'style' front axle. Removable third, same joint style...to the untrained eye it would appear to be a Toyota-based axle with a fabricated housing.

This would be very expensive, however.

 

[Corbet]

Does anyone have a link to which studs and pins to get? I would prefer to NOT tap and drill so what are my options? I have a TON of $$$ in this rebuild

A pair of choices can be found here: http://www.trail-gear.com/hubs-and-drive-flanges scroll down a little.

 

[slowsuki]

might be nothing ,but there was a guy on here a while back racing a 80, they put a patrol front 3rd in because hi failure rates with stock 3rd, said it solved problem. might not be able to get the parts over here,do not know.