Builds Building Bubbles the Turbo Super Tourer (2 Viewers)

[Dirty Koala]

So I am starting to run out of things to do on this turbo install and figured it was time to take care of the task I have been procrastinating on...the downpipe to belhousing bracket and clamp.

bolted up the bracket with a fresh drilled hole and just as I predicted, the clamp positioning is way off.

This wouldn’t be an issue without the blanket, but with the blanket already installed, there is very little movement of the clamp. There is no way I am going to remove the pipe as it took some finagling to get it right the first time.

After struggling with this two nights ago I decided to give my LX and I some time apart to cool off, came back at it this morning with a different approach. This time I unwired the bottom 4 cleats on the blanket, creating enough room to move the band clamp around.

All bolted up and re-wired... now onto the Cat.

 

[Dirty Koala]

The last couple weeks I got preoccupied stripping off parts from my cummins 80 and the LX didn’t get much attention, but the past couple days I got back on it.

I got the front cat welded up and situated in place. Changed out the exhaust mounts while I was in there as one had split.

Then moved to the Power Steering system. I yanked all the lines and paper clip cooler out and replaced with a fancy Derale setup from @NLXTACY and a new High Pressure hose.

This afternoon I tossed the main battery tray back in and hooked up the primary battery. Start up is imminent!

Still need to bleed the brakes, replace the O2 sensors, run power to my Delta Console and wire up all my gauges.

 

[spyduh]

Ugh those welds on the cat are hideous. I would redo those. Didn't look like it got proper penetration.

Don't need to do the whole thing. But I would cut out that center selection and sleeve it.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Ugh those welds on the cat are hideous. I would redo those. Didn't look like it got proper penetration.

Don't need to do the whole thing. But I would cut out that center selection and sleeve it.

Plenty of penetration, only looks ugly because I went with a high heat spot weld approach. Had to make 4 welds to get the alignment right, there is zero chance that I am redoing this.

 

[spyduh]

Plenty of penetration, only looks ugly because I went with a high heat spot weld approach. Had to make 4 welds to get the alignment right, there is zero chance that I am redoing this.

Yea I had a #&$@ time with positioning mine too. I hear yeah on not wanting to mess with it again.

I would keep that 90 bend and think about cutting out the center. It would actually able pretty simple fix. Get the same size pipe about 4 inch long. Flare out both ends and then weld back in.

It looks like your welding with 110 or if youre using 220 you need to turn up the voltage a tiny bit. It's super tricky with thin wall exhaust pipe but the trick is to just hold the trigger long enough to make a hot puddle then let go and hit it a split second after and keep going and knowing when you need to let it rest for 10-15seconds if it gets to hot before it burns through.

Not sure where you are but I'll even volunteer to help you weld the damn thing if you're in the bay area. Cant have a Turbo pipe looking like that. Joey's going to slap the crap out of you if he saw that lol.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Yea I had a #&$@ time with positioning mine too. I hear yeah on not wanting to mess with it again.

I would keep that 90 bend and think about cutting out the center. It would actually able pretty simple fix. Get the same size pipe about 4 inch long. Flare out both ends and then weld back in.

It looks like your welding with 110 or if youre using 220 you need to turn up the voltage a tiny bit. It's super tricky with thin wall exhaust pipe but the trick is to just hold the trigger long enough to make a hot puddle then let go and hit it a split second after and keep going and knowing when you need to let it rest for 10-15seconds if it gets to hot before it burns through.

Not sure where you are but I'll even volunteer to help you weld the damn thing if you're in the bay area. Cant have a Turbo pipe looking like that. Joey's going to slap the crap out of you if he saw that lol.

Chill dude, it’s an exhaust pipe, not a suspension bracket.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Buttoned up a few hoses, topped up the oil and cranked the motor with the the coil wire disconnected until I could visually see oil coming through the turbo feed line. Then reconnected the coil and she fired right up...she idles smooth and quiet!



Took a little while to get the Power Steering system bled out, about 30-35 lock to lock turns.

Still need to bleed the brakes and sort out my center console power and guage wiring, but feels good to hear her run.

 

[asuddendeath]

love the clicking of the 1fzfe! Cant wait to see how you like your turbo.

did you replace your knock sensors? where did you set your timing?

 

[Dirty Koala]

love the clicking of the 1fzfe! Cant wait to see how you like your turbo.

did you replace your knock sensors? where did you set your timing?

This is not the motor you hear, that is the harbor freight aluminum step stool I am standing on. It creaks like a mofo.



I set timing to factory specs. Since I already had a Supercharger, the timing was already set back to factory...so kept the same timing marks when changing the dizzy o-ring.

 

[NLXTACY]

Has it left the driveway yet?!?!??!?!

 

[Dirty Koala]

Has it left the driveway yet?!?!??!?!

Not yet, working on electrical. Want to make sure my AFR, Oil temp/pressure, and coolant temp are all setup before I pull out of the driveway.

 

[Dirty Koala]

While I had the grill off I tossed in a pair of 200 series OEM horns...much better than the Mickey Mouse 80 series horns.

 

[asuddendeath]

Dam that SOB is loud!

 

[Dirty Koala]

Yes it is...much better!

 

[Dirty Koala]

The the past couple evenings I have been stuck into wiring....not one of my favorite activities as it’s such a slow process if you want it to look neat.

I shortened and re-routed the 12+ cable that was running from AUX battery back to rear quarter panel under the passenger seat and into bottom of my @Delta VS center console.

I also ran a new 12+ cable from console back to the rear quarter panel so my fridge and other accessories back there will still operate.

Inside the console I mounted Split bus bar Blue Seas 12 circuit panel and a 130a relay on a custom bracket that Dave and Pat @ Delta fabbed up.

I have wired the panel so that half of the circuits are always hot and half of them are ignition switched via the big relay. I still need to hook up the other end of the trigger wire, but am waiting for a box of add-a-fuses to arrive so I can go right into the factory fuse block and not hack into any Existing circuits.

I also put the Aux battery back in after giving it a proper charge and buttoned up the cables on that end. Getting closer.

 

[lumbee1]

Where can I find more information on your oil catch can?

 

[Dirty Koala]

Where can I find more information on your oil catch can?

Its just a simple catch can from jegs that is plumbed in between the PVC valve and the manifold. I might upgrade it to a Vibrant catch can like I have on the Cummins...but not in a hurry to do so.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Its just a simple catch can from jegs that is plumbed in between the PVC valve and the manifold. I might upgrade it to a Vibrant catch can like I have on the Cummins...but not in a hurry to do so.

Did you have any problems with then freezing in the winter?

 

[Dirty Koala]

Did you have any problems with then freezing in the winter?

No I haven’t had any issue with it, is that a known issue with Jegs catch cans?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

No I haven’t had any issue with it, is that a known issue with Jegs catch cans?

No it’s just always a warning I hear people say about all of them. The mist can freeze and plug it up. I had one on my previous Liberty CRD but I live in Texas so no issue.