Builds Building Bubbles the Turbo Super Tourer

Dirty Koala

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The details on this Delta front bumper are really nice. Super high clearance but retains full grill protection. Dave laser cut a 3/4” hole before powdercoat to mount a Parker Air chuck that is plumbed into the Wits’End OBA manifold and York system. We placed it behind the driver side upright, it’s out of sight but still easy to access to remove the pacifier and connect/disconnect air lines.

I still need to install my tank and run lines to the back bumper, but loving this bumper/OBA setup.

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Dirty Koala

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Real time help needed please
What os the torque spec for the turbo to the t4 flange - thnx. Its the last thing
Just responded to this question in the turbo owners thread, snug it up tight by hand in a cross-cross pattern. Given the location you aren’t going to be able to get a huge wrench or driver on those nuts so you shouldn’t have to worry about going too tight.
 

Kabanstva

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I also plan on installing my air fitting on the front bumper similar to yours. My compressor is mounted in the engine bay, do you recommend I still open the hood when operating the compressor to keep it cooler, or is there no need?
 

Dirty Koala

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I also plan on installing my air fitting on the front bumper similar to yours. My compressor is mounted in the engine bay, do you recommend I still open the hood when operating the compressor to keep it cooler, or is there no need?
What type of compressor do you have? If it’s a York, then no need to open the hood assuming you have the on/off switch inside the cab.

If it’s electric like ARB or viare, then yes I would open the hood.
 

Dirty Koala

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Since getting back from my Idaho trip with @Delta VS I have been tinkering with air flow.

I first cut a big hole in the fender to install a new Safari snorkel I picked up from @cruiseroutfit. I noticed that the design has changed from the old 80 series safari snorkels. The new version has a significantly larger diameter, which I am very happy about. I am running a 10” Donaldson pre-cleaner “Salad Spinner” to make sure that red UT dirt stays out of my engine.
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I then moved onto the hood and started cutting more holes. I picked up a pair of 11 x 5” louver panels from Rod Louvers that looked about the right size for what I wanted. Cutting up the hood was a bit nerve wracking...but measure plenty of times, make a template and get to work.
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I painted the panels to match the 1B1 champagne color with 3 coats and 3 coats of clear....even painted the stainless bolts to avoid anything too shiny.
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I am pretty happy with how it turned out. You can feel the heat just dumping out of these...which was the point.
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I like the look so much that today I called Rob up and ordered another set, but this time in a weld-in version rather than bolt on. I plan to do the same mod to my Cummins 80.
 

Dirty Koala

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Chipping away at the pile of parts boxes I have been accumulating, last nights project was installing a pair of YodaTEQ gullwings.

I have been running a pair on the Cummins since Frank first released them 4 or 5 years ago and they are a fantastic mod, so I knew I had to Have a pair for the LX also.

The only thing I don’t love about the design is re-using the aluminum glass frame from the sliders.

That is how I installed them the first time around on the Cummins. This time however I followed in @bryson foot steps and picked up a pair of rear quarter weather strips and a pair of vent louvers for a solid rear quarter glass 80. Using these weather strips you can install the YotaTEQ gullwings just like a regular glass window and no need to muck around with the aluminum frame of the slider. The new louvers are just to prevent you from seeing body color paint Which you would if you keep the louvers designed to work with the sliders. I think this is a much cleaner and simpler install all around.
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Part numbers for reference:
Louvers: 62906-60010 & 62905-60010
Weatherstrip x 2: 62741-60030
 

Dirty Koala

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Lately I have been bugging @scottryana with all sorts of questions, and together we have planned out a pretty slick air to water Intercooler system.

I have collected all the hard parts so far including a Garrett Intercooler core good for supporting 750hp, an electric Bosch coolant pump and aluminum clamp bracket to mount it. This pump is used in many OEM A2W systems, a Griffin fluid cooler/heat exchanger with built in 708 CFM SPAL pusher fan.

Soon I will be getting a local fab shop that I have worked with in the past...(really skilled craftsman) to build the end tanks on the cooler, weld on some mounting brackets to the heat exchanger and build me a custom aluminum expansion tank as big as I can get to fit.

Garrett Intercooler Core
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Bosch water pump and bracket
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Griffin Fluid cooler / Heat Exchanger. When I saw this giant box at my door I thought they had screwed up and sent me a whole radiator....total overkill on the packaging. This unit is very well built.
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Joined
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Lately I have been bugging @scottryana with all sorts of questions, and together we have planned out a pretty slick air to water Intercooler system.

I have collected all the hard parts so far including a Garrett Intercooler core good for supporting 750hp, an electric Bosch coolant pump and aluminum clamp bracket to mount it. This pump is used in many OEM A2W systems, a Griffin fluid cooler/heat exchanger with built in 708 CFM SPAL pusher fan.

Soon I will be getting a local fab shop that I have worked with in the past...(really skilled craftsman) to build the end tanks on the cooler, weld on some mounting brackets to the heat exchanger and build me a custom aluminum expansion tank as big as I can get to fit.

Garrett Intercooler Core
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Bosch water pump and bracket
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Griffin Fluid cooler / Heat Exchanger. When I saw this giant box at my door I thought they had screwed up and sent me a whole radiator....total overkill on the packaging. This unit is very well built.
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DUDE. Depending how this all goes, i may copy you for my truck, Excellent work @Dirty Koala @scottryana. Been trying to think about solutions for an A/W system that would allow a york under the hood still.
 

Dirty Koala

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DUDE. Depending how this all goes, i may copy you for my truck, Excellent work @Dirty Koala @scottryana. Been trying to think about solutions for an A/W system that would allow a york under the hood still.
It will require deleting ABS if you still have it to make room for the custom expansion tank...but who doesn't like improved braking performance.
 
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It will require deleting ABS if you still have it to make room for the custom expansion tank...but who doesn't like improved braking performance.
Have thought about doing that anyway... but i do still have ABS.
Worst comes to worst i can find another location for the tank.
Very interested to see where this goes!
 

Dirty Koala

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Have thought about doing that anyway... but i do still have ABS.
Worst comes to worst i can find another location for the tank.
Very interested to see where this goes!
For me, there is no other space...but I have dual batteries, York and a Turbo. Without a York or Dual batteries there is lots of space in the front passenger side corner to work with.
 

Dirty Koala

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In order to make room for the custom Intercooler expansion tank, ABS had to go. I was already planning on deleting it since I loved the results when I deleted it on my Cummins 80.

Flaring custom brake lines in the engine bay is not my favorite thing to do, maybe it’s just the kit I have is a PIA to use. I took the igniter bracket, reshaped it a little bit and used it to mount a Wilwood manual proportioning valve off the side of the charcoal canister. The LSPV got deleted at the same time and I replaced the 80 ABS master with a larger 1” bore T100 Non-ABS master...which is perfectly sized for my 4Runner front calipers.

Note to others deleting ABS and LSPV, don’t try to use the short M10x1.0 fittings that are on the output side of the ABS pump...they do not seal in the Toyota T fittings despite the same thread size and pitch. You have to use the longer fittings that are on all other lines besides the ABS pump.

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I also tossed in a pair of Rosen visors this afternoon, they are seriously nice!!!
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Dirty Koala

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I’ve been holding off on bleeding my brakes after the ABS/LSPV delete since I didn’t want to cash in any more wifey favors.

This week I picked up a Motive power bleeder, but the adapter it came with was junk, so ordered up an Ares Toyota/Lexus master adapter...this fits great...but the coupler connector they use isn’t a standard air coupler fitting, so swapped that out for a standard automotive quick disconnect fitting and got to bleeding this morning.

I should have gotten this years ago...made bleeding my breaks a 10 min solo job...too easy.

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