Builds Building Bubbles the Turbo Super Tourer (1 Viewer)

[NLXTACY]

Crazy. I'm at the exact same spot of install on my turbo right now and thought Joey was going to kill me yesterday too.
I'm having trouble lining up the downpipe bracket right now, but hopefully fresh eyes today itll be easy.
Nice install!

I was laughing with Morgan last night. I had three different installers texting me at the exact some time, at almost the same section of the install, on three different texting platforms. You know what its like to do installation support on a Sunday night responding to one guy on IG, one on Messenger and one on text in the iPhone? HHAHAHAHAH

 

[Wompom]

I was laughing with Morgan last night. I had three different installers texting me at the exact some time, at almost the same section of the install, on three different texting platforms. You know what its like to do installation support on a Sunday night responding to one guy on IG, one on Messenger and one on text in the iPhone? HHAHAHAHAH

Ha i'm not lucky enough to have your cell or i'd just text ya!

 

[Dirty Koala]

I wonder who the 3rd guy was? We should all make a pact to collectively hit up Joey between 7 and 9pm on Sundays for support.

 

[Wompom]

I wonder who the 3rd guy was? We should all make a pact to collectively hit up Joey between 7 and 9pm on Sundays for support.

only 7 and 9? I was blowing his phone up starting at noon!

 

[Dirty Koala]

When I put the parts list together, I made sure every part was something I would put on my own truck. I said in the beginning it could be done cheaper, but instead I wanted every part to be high quality.

Bravo Lots of nice flashy parts in this build.

 

[Dirty Koala]

With the lackluster 80 series brakes and all the excess weight, extra power on tap with forced induction and a few close calls...I have wanted to get some better braking performance. I have already moved to 17” wheels, so rotor diameter is not limited like with the stock 16” wheels.

My goal was to keep the parts used as OEM as possible for future availability and maintenance ease/cost.

I new that the 5th gen 4Runner front calipers share the same bolt pattern as the 80 series calipers so I ordered up a pair from Toyota. I also wanted to attempt to make the front brakes easier to service by going to a slip fit design, allowing the hub to be left in place...the early 200 series rotor dimensions looked promising...so picked up a pair of those too.

The early 200 rotors are 13.3” diameter...same as the 5th gen 4Runner diameter.

The theory was to machine the hub wheel face down enough to allow the centerline of the 200 rotor to sit in the middle of the 4Runner caliper. My friend @I Lean then took my hubs to his lathe to turn them down enough to get the center line matched up.

After getting the rotor mounting depth on the hub right, the next step is to ensure the slip fit rotors are hub centric. Since the 80 hub is 106mm and the 200 rotor hub hole is 112mm, the solution what to cut out a .25” plate ring that could be pressed over the hub and then turned down on the lathe to 112mm.

This pic shows the machined face with ring pressed on and turned down. The rotor fits perfectly centered in place.

This next part isn’t essential, but it is one solution to a problem that kept in line with my design to stick with OEM parts. When moving to a slip fit design, the thickness of the hub mating face of the rotor (.25”) would reduce engagable wheel stud length by the same amount. You could solve this problem a few ways.

• Get longer M12 studs from some other application.
• Use ET lug nuts designed to engage further down the threads.
• The option I went with...use 100 series M14 wheel studs. These are longer and also stronger. I liked this since I have already snapped M12 wheel studs on the interstate and that is some scary sh!t.

So the wheel studs holes got drilled out to accept the M14 studs and new studs pressed into the hubs. I also swapped out the hub studs with ARP studs.

The last step is to modify the bolt pattern on the 200 rotor from 5 bolt to 6 bolt. @I Lean cut out a template on his plasma table to use as a drill pattern. This is the only part that would be great to find a better solution for...such as rotor blanks pre-drilling.

Test fitment of hub and rotor in 17” Icon Alloy wheel once my new M14x1.5 Method lugs arrived.

After rebuilding the knuckle (while your in there victim), I slapped the rotor, caliper and pads on...pretty happy with the result so far.

The pad alignment is perfect with the 13.3” rotors

I still need to hook up the hydraulics and figure out if I need to change out the master with a larger bore...but will run as-is to test before touching the master.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Nice work! I always thought this should have been developed long ago.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Nice work! I always thought this should have been developed long ago.

Yeah I agree. I have been hankering for some good brakes for a long time. After kicking around some ideas with Carl figured we should just give it a shot.

 

[Defuzer1]

between the 6BT and your experience with forced induction on the 1fz, if you could only keep one, which one?

going back and forth right now myself for a DD low rpm cruiser.


Thanks turbo off the table just verified no obd port in 95 mid east spec

 

[Dirty Koala]

between the 6BT and your experience with forced induction on the 1fz, if you could only keep one, which one?

going back and forth right now myself for a DD low rpm cruiser.

6BT for sure.

 

[NLXTACY]

6BT for sure.

wait, is the turbo done?!?

 

[Dirty Koala]

wait, is the turbo done?!?

He asked for my experience with forced induction on 1FZ...which to this point is a Supercharger...you never know my opinion could change after the turbo 1FZ-FTE is finished.

 

[NLXTACY]

He asked for my experience with forced induction on 1FZ...which to this point is a Supercharger...you never know my opinion could change after the turbo 1FZ-FTE is finished.

See THATS what I wanted to hear. My SC 80 doesn't hold a candle to my Turbo 80

 

[Dirty Koala]

Yesterday I was a little bored so I cracked open a spreadsheet to layout the data and calculations needed to determine the best Master cylinder to go with for this swap.

• The 80 Series Master Cylinder has a 25mm bore..or 0.9843"
• The T100 Master Clyinder has a 1 1/16" bore or 1.0625"
• The 80 Series Caliper Piston OD is 45.3mm or 1.7835"
• The 4Runner Caliper Piston OD is 48mm or 1.8898"

I have laid out three combinations for MC and caliper for comparison. (80 Caliper + 80 MC, 4Runner Caliper + 80 MC, 4Runner Caliper + T100 MC)

• Establishing a baseline to compare off of, you can see that the leverage ratio of the stock setup is 6.57:1.
• By changing just the caliper side to a 4Runner caliper, the new leverage ratio will be 7.37:1. This will result in more pedal throw (12.3%) to get the same amount of caliper piston travel.
• By also changing the Master Cylinder to a T100 MC, the leverage ratio becomes 6.33:1. This will result in a marginally (3.7%) shorter pedal throw than the stock configuration to get the same amount of caliper piston travel.

After doing the math, I ran over and picked up a T100 MC from @cruiseroutfit to slap in sometime later this week.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Is the T100 a non ABS/4 wheel disc Master?

 

[Dirty Koala]

Is the T100 a non ABS/4 wheel disc Master?

I believe there are both ABS and non ABS versions available. I think the T100 was Disc/Drum. I plan to delete my ABS and add a manual proportioning valve on the LX like I did on the Cummins.

 

[Dirty Koala]

After taking a detour to play with some big brakes and rebuild the front axle completely, I am back onto the turbo install.

• I wrapped the accelerator and cruise control cables in heat sleeves.
• Ran the boost reference lines from manifold to wastegate.
• Installed all my external Guage sensors (coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, boost/vacuum and AFR). I had to add one extra 90 degree fitting to the oil peace pipe to handle the extra pressure sensor.
• Replaced the block plug with the 4Runner style that has a drain spout for a hose.
• Flushed the rest of the old green coolant out of the heater cores and block with distilled water.
• Replaced the heater hoses with new and tossed on a bunch constant torque hose clamps. Filled everything up with Toyota Red.
• Installed my York pump...being able to run this was the primary driver for me to go the turbo route....so feels good to see it bolted in place.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Getting close to the finish line now.

 

[asuddendeath]

nice work! really want to know how this is over a SC.

I love my turbo!

 

[Dirty Koala]

I have been chipping away at the turbo in between conference calls the past few days.

• Extended the windshield washer wiring over to the driver side back corner.
• Pulled the OBA manifold apart, sealed up all connections and put back together.
• Dropped the AUX battery tray back in.
• Dropped the Air filter canister and OBA manifold in temporarily so I could determine OBA line routing.
• Pulled air filter canister and manifold to drill and mount Coalescing filter.
• Put together York suction and discharge lines and threw it all back together with a new OEM air filter.

It’s a bit of a tight fit, but it’s cool that you can run dual batteries, a turbo, a York OBA system including coalescing filter and manifold all in the same engine bay.

Filter is mounted to the backside of the air canister with two 90 degree fittings allowing for good line routing.

Was able to keep the discharge line to the filter away from the Turbo.

The line that runs from the filter to the manifold drops down under the air canister inlet from the fender and back up underneath the manifold by the battery box.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Stole a syringe from the medicine cabinet and filled the turbo up with motor oil and hooked up the feed line.


Slapped on the turbo blanket, went of much easier than I was expecting.