Builds Build thread - Japhy the Canadian FJ62

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You didn’t show how you got that inner curve?

I'm not totally sure what you're asking. The arc of the curve is determined by the first piece I attached (i.e. the one I screwed on with the sheet metal screws). The area you've circled in red will be trimmed down to about 3/4" before I weld the piece in, so that the lip matches that of the rest of the fender. In other words, there's a lot of extra steel there that mostly serves to provide stability and reduce distortion while welding.

Sorry if I've misunderstood your question!
 
I'm not totally sure what you're asking. The arc of the curve is determined by the first piece I attached (i.e. the one I screwed on with the sheet metal screws). The area you've circled in red will be trimmed down to about 3/4" before I weld the piece in, so that the lip matches that of the rest of the fender. In other words, there's a lot of extra steel there that mostly serves to provide stability and reduce distortion while welding.

Sorry if I've misunderstood your question!
It looks like it has a concave shape to mold around the inner lip. Wondering how you achieved it.
 
It looks like it has a concave shape to mold around the inner lip. Wondering how you achieved it.

Ohhh I see. I think that's an optical illusion. It's perfectly flat, but the light seems to bounce off it in a way that makes it look concave.
 
Wow! Look at the money you’ve saved!

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Ohhh I see. I think that's an optical illusion. It's perfectly flat, but the light seems to bounce off it in a way that makes it look concave.
Ah ok thanks. Will you try to bend it up and around or just dart the edges and fold up inward?
 
I don't know if this is a good idea or not, but because of my limited skills, I'm kind of re-engineering how the outer and inner fenders join. My version is probably not as strong, but frankly the Toyota way has proven to be very rust-prone. Here is a drawing of the cross-section of where the fenders join, showing Toyota's design vs. mine, haha.

crosssection.jpg
 
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Ah ok thanks. Will you try to bend it up and around or just dart the edges and fold up inward?

No darts are needed. I might roll up a tiny lip for added rigidity, but that's it.
 
Ah ok thanks. Will you try to bend it up and around or just dart the edges and fold up inward?
All should become more clear as I move to the next step. Will be sure to post lots of photos.
 
No darts are needed. I might roll up a tiny lip for added rigidity, but that's it.
I give you credit... for me it just feels too cold and damp to get out there and start this... plus there’s a big ‘ol engine-less Chevy in my way of where I like to work infront of my garage. Few weeks... I gotta pull my oil pan anyhow. She’s leaking like a seive. I’m finally coming to terms w/ it. Highly irritating.
 
It's been pretty nasty here, too. The Chinook winds have been strong enough to blow a few semis over on the highway...makes for miserable work when you're getting sandblasted by the crap the wind's lifting off your driveway!
 
WELP finally got around to the driver's side dogleg today, and I have to say that it's been least fun part of this project so far. That said, it's done, and I lived to tell the tale.

The dogleg was rusted in various spots, as was the inner fender lip, which I also had to rebuild. Had to do quite a bit of cutting to even see what I was dealing with:

dogleg10.jpg


Once I had the inner fender lip rebuilt (forgot to take a pic), I took the outer dogleg that I'd built previously, and cut it down to size:

dogleg20.jpg


Then I grabbed the panel epoxy, and glued the patch in place, again using sheet metal screws to help clamp it in place while there glue cures (overnight):

dogleg12.jpg


My next step was to grind the top profile of the patch piece to match that of the existing sheet metal, and then weld them together. I also made some smaller patch pieces to replace the rusted areas I'd cut out earlier. Again, I forgot to take photos (was rushing because it was supposed to rain), but here's the end result:

dogleg13.jpg


One of the trickier parts was forming the little "lip" where the outer dogleg meets the existing metal - especially given the weird compound curves etc that are involved.

Anyway, again, it's not perfect, but there's solid steel where once there was only rust. Good for another hundred thousand.

dogleg14.jpg


Still need to rebuild the very lowest part of the dogleg, where it meets the rocker. There a lot of work needed in that area, so I think I might hold off on that for a bit, and start working on the passenger side rear fender and quarter panel.
 
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Took a break from bodywork today to install new tie rod and relay rod ends, along with a new steering damper. Made for a long day, but learned a lot (in other words, I made a ton of mistakes lol)

Anyway, I'll share some pics because why not. Here's the old steering gear sitting on the driveway. It's obviously pooched.
tre1.jpg


The Terrain Tamer steering stabilizer is pretty beefy compared to the one I removed. The old one was completely done: it wasn't providing any damping at all.
tre2.jpg


The relay rod ends had also had their day. I'm gonna say this was bordering on dangerous:

tre3.jpg


I'm liking the way things are looking under the front end, and as an added bonus, I was able to align my steering wheel so that when I'm driving straight, it's level! Such a treat haha.

tre4.jpg


A couple of interesting things about the Terrain Tamer TREs: they don't use pins, but instead rely on nylock nuts to hold things in place. I assume they know what they're doing but I'll keep an eye on them. Also, the nuts for the TREs and damper were 7/8"?? I felt kind of chapped to have to go track down a standard socket when working on my Toyota lol.

Anyway, here's an artistic shot of my refurbed front end:
tre5.jpg


Finished off with an alignment, which was as easy as everyone says it is. Cheers!
 
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Nothing to report, @kirvesmies. Should be getting at it pretty soon, with warmer weather and longer days. I don't want to start working on the passenger side until I've dropped the tank and removed all the fuel lines. I've put too much work into this thing to have it go up in flames in my driveway. Not to say that I haven't been working on the truck, though. Been chasing electrical issues and a high idle. Always something!
 
Haven't posted in a while! Life being what it is, I just haven't had the time or motivation to work on the Cruiser.

So of course the best course of action was to buy another one.

Just picked up this '89 62 with 290,000km (180,000mi). Bought it sight unseen as a "parts rig" for $2000 Canadian, which is about $1600USD. The body and frame of this "parts rig are in better shape than my 62, so now I have a bit of thinking to do. The new truck is not running, so its mechanical condition is unknown at this point as well. Gonna dig into it tomorrow, to see if I can get it to fire. The seller said it had a bad ECU, but in my experience it's almost never the ECU. Will find out soon enough. Also has full documentation that appears to include a full engine rebuild at some point. Looks like it's been lifted slightly on OME Dakar springs (sticker is still legible)

As a bonus, the truck came with a factory service manual!

new621.jpg


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The truck came with an older Warn winch - not sure the model. It's rated for 8000 lbs. Can anyone help me identify it? Will likely sell it.

Interior looks decent. Windscreen is toast.

new623.jpg


In a crate in the back was what looks like a locking diff. I don't know much about these - can anyone confirm? Is it an e-locker? Does it look salvageable?

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Always fun to find old parts boxes etc. tucked away in the back of old vehicles. This is some kind of switch.
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Anyway, that's enough excitement for one day. Cheers!
 
@diesellibrarian
i maybe mistooken, but did not the manual lockered 60s not have cable actuated lockers instead of e-lockers?
there's definitely some sorta locker actuator been bolted on to that pumpkin n that actuator is electric. from what i see of the innards, it probably is salvageable. are you sure it's a 60 pc? it could be out of an 8" diff
how's things in your corner of the country my fellow canuck?
 
@diesellibrarian
i maybe mistooken, but did not the manual lockered 60s not have cable actuated lockers instead of e-lockers?
there's definitely some sorta locker actuator been bolted on to that pumpkin n that actuator is electric. from what i see of the innards, it probably is salvageable. are you sure it's a 60 pc? it could be out of an 8" diff
how's things in your corner of the country my fellow canuck?

I assumed the diff was some other Toyota model, as like you I've never seen an e-locker on a 60. I'll take a closer look to see if I can figure out what gears it is too. The actuator housing is definitely broken. Assume one could find a used replacement somewhere. There's also no cover. Thanks for the insight!
 
I assumed the diff was some other Toyota model, as like you I've never seen an e-locker on a 60. I'll take a closer look to see if I can figure out what gears it is too. The actuator housing is definitely broken. Assume one could find a used replacement somewhere. There's also no cover. Thanks for the insight!
no cover for what?
 

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