Budget Snorkel Review

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Hmmm...well I guess you could do that. Is there really an issue with water sitting in there in that general area or is it the air box that's the issue? I guess maybe I need to check my air box after driving in the rain.

~Daniel

Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.

Water gets stuck in the area I pointed out as it is lower than the inlet to the air box. If I were driving in a torrential down pour for 8 hours, I would feel better knowing that everything being ram-aired into the snorkel, had an easy escape path. And nobody jump in saying that the water egress channels on the Safari head separate most of the water. It simply is not rue. 95% of us will never need to worry about any of this but I still think having a little hole on the bottom that you could seal in the event of a 4ft.+ water crossing would make the most sense.
 
Think about...Let's say 200 rain drops enter the snorkel head at 40 miles per hour. Do you really think those channels are routing all 200 rain drops though those channels?

I looked both in my airbox and in the area described after driving around for a hour in normal spring rain (nothing super heavy) and found water in both locations. Granted, the Safari is vastly different in regards to the head but still...

I will say that if you turn the head of a Safari around 180 degrees you have basically made it a non-issue. The hole idea is for any knock-off snorkel that shares the Airtech head design.
 
Water smacks the back of the head, runs down the back. I've run Safari snorks on two different LC's and in snow and rain. Never had a water issue.

I haven't seen a knockoff of the TJM snork, just Safari. May be a design issue on the TJM. The port size on the TJM is pretty small, I'd be more worried about the amount of air getting in vs. water.
 
Ok so I just looked in my air box cause I drove in the rain earlier today and I didn't see any water. I did see very small water spots, but that could be from before installing the pre-cleaner. I'm thinking if I were to put a drain plug in for peace of mind then I would go with something like this:


image-3778368508.webp



image-2041813061.webp

You could put a small hole at the inside bottom of the air box and have the plug loose in there and blammo a river...stop, pop the hood and air box...in goes the plug as well as you across the river. Hmmmm...I think I just convinced my self. :D It rains like clock work in Honduras seemingly every evening and I hope to be crossing rivers regularly so I can scale sweet mountains, so I guess if that becomes the case I could just leave the plug in. ;)

~Daniel

Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.
image-3778368508.webp
image-2041813061.webp
 
Your air box is different than ours. Yours looks like the real deal. We got the soccer mom version.

20120217_192949.jpg


This is yet another thing that needs to be altered on the US 100s in order to run a true water-fording intake.

Here is the air box after barely 15 minutes in a light drizzle. I'm not saying that we all need to run down to Home Depot to buy plugs and sealants, just that I would not want to be on an 8 hour torrential downpour drive without addressing a couple of issues.

20120219_141118.jpg
 
Crazy! I'm gonna go out and really get on it next time it rains which is likely to be soon and check my air box immediately after. I did notice when I first removed the Safari intake to install the pre-cleaner that the inside of the tube appeared to be pretty dirty. I'm not saying the Safari intake doesn't work cause obviously it does or every body would be complaining, but I still say a good pre-cleaner is a great idea. This whole topic is the main reason I went with one. I'll post up when I find the results.

~Daniel

Sent from deep in the mountains of Honduras using only sticks and rocks.
 
I sealed up that lower hole with some ABS plastic cement.
In heavy rain, i just turn the snorkel head around, zero water in the intake box this way.
 
^^ Im guessing those will land on Ebay and be cheaper than paying the Queens exchange at some point.
 
Now my interest in this thread has increased considerably.
 
If all the holes line up...you could buy the "inferior" knockoff....after 8 years of use order another and replace it before a dragon fly hits it at 75mph and shatters it on I-95 southbound...and still have only HALF (50%) of the initial cost of the Safari invested and be good for another 8 years at which time you may need another but would only have about $210 (if they dont continue to get cheaper to purchase) rather than the much higher initial cost of the ORIGINAL.

I dont see how you lose on this if the mounting holes are exactly the same.....black paint or other colors to fix when it fades.....Line-X would get rid of the entire UV issue actually....put on a Donaldson but truthfully not worried about rain water being enough to get all the way into filter compartment and then get sucked into engine and then cause issues. Water injection is part of hot rodding from many years ago...small particles get passed through....it is the big tablespoon drops or more found in water crossing that are the issue. Just my opinion...
 
Brock said:
If all the holes line up...you could buy the "inferior" knockoff....after 8 years of use order another and replace it before a dragon fly hits it at 75mph and shatters it on I-95 southbound...and still have only HALF (50%) of the initial cost of the Safari invested and be good for another 8 years at which time you may need another but would only have about $210 (if they dont continue to get cheaper to purchase) rather than the much higher initial cost of the ORIGINAL.

I dont see how you lose on this if the mounting holes are exactly the same.....black paint or other colors to fix when it fades.....Line-X would get rid of the entire UV issue actually....put on a Donaldson but truthfully not worried about rain water being enough to get all the way into filter compartment and then get sucked into engine and then cause issues. Water injection is part of hot rodding from many years ago...small particles get passed through....it is the big tablespoon drops or more found in water crossing that are the issue. Just my opinion...

Exactly what I want to know...do they line up....
 
Back
Top Bottom