Builds Broski's Adventure Rig build thread (1 Viewer)

[Broski]

Body mounts rarely break even in a rollover or collision scenario. I think they'll be OK. Biggest concern for me would be making sure water still drains out properly. I chopped the rockers off my old 60 for body-mounted sliders and it was a poorly-executed abomination, but that rig was already pretty far-gone with rust.

In that respect it lives a sheltered life parked inside the shop and rarely see any rain.
But you’re right I should make sure it’s draining.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I agree.
My body mounted slides took some good hits that shake the truck and feel dramatic. But all at low speed, not a lot of dynamic forces. Corrugated dirt roads at 50mph would be worse

I don't see it being an issue. Maybe after 1000s of hits

 

[Broski]

Good time were had by all
Panament Valley Days

 

[John McVicker]

And one more for your records.

 

[EWheeler]

Yes, combine the cutting brake with a front dig and you can spin the truck on a dime.

Back in the day it was considered the poor mans four wheel steering.

Cheers

The sickest rock buggies have rear steer and cutting brakes, you can lock up the right or left rear wheel independently.
@woody Buggy is a awesome example.
He has a killer build thread on RockCrawler.Com

I'm new to 80 series, doing research and reading builds. Regarding the above posts, if you left the center diff unlocked, and had a hand operated rear brake (like a cutting brake) would you essentially be able to do a front dig with the HF2A t-case? I say that assuming the parking break doesn't have the capacity to provide enough resistance, but maybe it does?

on edit: a t-case output parking brake like the 40 series would make this much easier to force power to the front.

 

[EWheeler]

Tie rod ends swapped over Hydro tabs welded on & painted. I set the toe and adjusted the steering stops ready to put it back in and send it.
View attachment 3763829
Rotating the tires, test drive and She ready to go.

I think this is the 2nd tie rod replacement I've seen as I read this whole thread today. Any specific reason not to upgrade to the stronger DOM offering on the market? Just curious if you look at the tie rod as a fuse or weak link and would rather have it bend than send the stress to other components?

Its been said over and over, but this 80 is rad.

 

[Broski]

I think this is the 2nd tie rod replacement I've seen as I read this whole thread today. Any specific reason not to upgrade to the stronger DOM offering on the market? Just curious if you look at the tie rod as a fuse or weak link and would rather have it bend than send the stress to other components?

Its been said over and over, but this 80 is rad.

I ran the original OEM many years with out issue. Then it got bent, being a parts hoarder I had a few OEM tie rod in my stash so I thought first one lasted a long time this one is free lets just put that in
Also I run the stock control arms, they have been moved forward 11/8" plates welded and castor plates have been welded solid to the axle so it's not easy to go to the popular custom control arms that give extra clearance at the tie rod so that they don't bind during high articulation.
With a little massaging to the OEM control arm and a stock tie rod I don't get that binding. If I go with a stronger after market one they are bigger and will bind.

Of course as luck would have it I bent up the replacement in short order so back to the stash I went maybe this one will last a little longer. If not I have one more good one after this one !

The drag link is heavy duty DOM after market.

 

[Broski]

I'm new to 80 series, doing research and reading builds. Regarding the above posts, if you left the center diff unlocked, and had a hand operated rear brake (like a cutting brake) would you essentially be able to do a front dig with the HF2A t-case? I say that assuming the parking break doesn't have the capacity to provide enough resistance, but maybe it does?

on edit: a t-case output parking brake like the 40 series would make this much easier to force power to the front.

I'm not sure how the HF2A would act if you lock up the rear output. In theory it should work and send all power the the front output. But then your just dragging both rear wheels
In practice with cutting brakes and a open rear third or selectable locker in the open position applying the cutting brake to one side makes the other side spin twice as fast aiding a front dig.

This is one of the reasons why is now more common to run a spool in the front and a selectable in the rear on comp & extreme Buggy's

So in theory the HF2A T-case should work fine for front digs with cutting brakes my concern would be the front 8" diff going BOOM while doing it !!

A cool set up would be a set of rear calipers with electric parking brake option set up as cutting brakes. No hard lines or levers just some wires and two monetary switches.

 

[cruzinfj1]

So in theory the HF2A T-case should work fine for front digs with cutting brakes my concern would be the front 8" diff going BOOM while doing it !!

I couldnt imagine doin a front dig mine, as heavy as it is on an 8", and I have all the "good parts". Yes, there have been a few times that it would have been nice to be able to, but no way do I think that 8" will take it for very long.

When are you taking the plunge into the 3 link???

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

I've tried it in the snow, remember that you are loosing half your torque through the center diff if one output isn't turning.

I third or fifth the 8" wouldn't last long on rocks. Had a friend with a rear disco on his mini truck and front digs are r&p regularly.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I'm new to 80 series, doing research and reading builds. Regarding the above posts, if you left the center diff unlocked, and had a hand operated rear brake (like a cutting brake) would you essentially be able to do a front dig with the HF2A t-case? I say that assuming the parking break doesn't have the capacity to provide enough resistance, but maybe it does?

on edit: a t-case output parking brake like the 40 series would make this much easier to force power to the front.

Yes. You can do front digs of sorts.

You need to be able to operate lockers independently. Factory locker system doesn't allow this.

I have left my rear diff unlocked, CDL locked, front diff locked, and done front digs in my hzj105.
I once did this to use the slope of the ground to help pivot the front of the truck in a tight spot, turning around on an unpassable narrow trail on a steep hillside
It worked as hoped, but result was a blown birf, and a tire off the bead.

This was rough on the truck, but the alternative was backing down 1/2 mile of really steep trail, with a steep drop off to the side.

There's been other times i have done similar less abusive digs to pivot the front of the truck on rock ledges etc to get into s better position

 

[mudgudgeon]

Ps, my truck was set up so lockers couldn't be locked without the CDL being locked first. This is how they are wired with the oem system.
I chose to wire FR & RR independently for exactly this reason.
I hadn't thought of making FR & RR lockers independent of the CDL.

Maybe i'll do this for my current rig when/ if it ever gets lockers

 

[Broski]

The Cruiser is at a good friends shop getting scanned for a three link
He's a very talented engineer/ fabricator !
The plan is to run it through the link calculator and hopefully come up with something the retains good street manners and better articulation then the control arm set up.
The main push for this is a solution to the tearing off of the OEM axle mounts for the control arms and chewing through control arm bushing.
I won’t be using coil overs and trying to keep the steering in the back where it’s protected.
Once a plan is hatched I will take over and do the actual fabrication.

 

[Broski]

Ps, my truck was set up so lockers couldn't be locked without the CDL being locked first. This is how they are wired with the oem system.
I chose to wire FR & RR independently for exactly this reason.
I hadn't thought of making FR & RR lockers independent of the CDL.

Maybe i'll do this for my current rig when/ if it ever gets lockers

I have an after market wire harness for the front locker that I have not installed yet.
It had not occurred to me that I would be able to lock the front axle without the center being locked with this set up.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I have an after market wire harness for the front locker that I have not installed yet.
It had not occurred to me that I would be able to lock the front axle without the center being locked with this set up.

Thinking about this more, not sure it achieves anything
If the front is locked, centre and rear are open, as soon as you have any wheel spin at the rear, all drive will go to the rear

 

[Broski]

Thinking about this more, not sure it achieves anything
If the front is locked, centre and rear are open, as soon as you have any wheel spin at the rear, all drive will go to the rear

Funny just out walking the dog thinking about it and was thinking the same thing.

 

[OffRoadScott]

The Cruiser is at a good friends shop getting scanned for a three link
He's a very talented engineer/ fabricator !
The plan is to run it through the link calculator and hopefully come up with something the retains good street manners and better articulation then the control arm set up.
The main push for this is a solution to the tearing off of the OEM axle mounts for the control arms and chewing through control arm bushing.
I won’t be using coil overs and trying to keep the steering in the back where it’s protected.
Once a plan is hatched I will take over and do the actual fabrication.

How close do you think your setup will be to this?

This was done by @BayArea80 well a friend of his. I have priced the kit out and it is about $1600 before the fabrication/welding costs.

 

[Broski]

How close do you think your setup will be to this?

View attachment 3788931

View attachment 3788933

This was done by @BayArea80 well a friend of his. I have priced the kit out and it is about $1600 before the fabrication/welding costs.

It's hard to say. But it's what my friend does for a living and he will be running everything through a computer program to make sure it all works.
Nothing well be generic, all mounts will be custom designed and 80 specific and laser cut. Zero guess work.
I would like the lower links to go under the tie rod and if that does not work then move it to the front and hi steer.
#1 priority is to get the numbers right, I want it to drive right and to be able to let my wife drive it if necessary
At this point it's in the scan stage. I should know more next week.

 

[cruzinfj1]

Bout time!!!! You wont believe the difference when its done, and probably say it a couple times that you should've done it years ago!!!!! lol

Im interested to see what he comes up with for a package, and able to keep your steering behind the axle.

 

[06reg4x4]

How close do you think your setup will be to this?

View attachment 3788931

View attachment 3788933

This was done by @BayArea80 well a friend of his. I have priced the kit out and it is about $1600 before the fabrication/welding costs.

I know Jeep land. But coming from my xj it’s interesting there isn’t a kit to do a three link and keep normal coils and shocks. That’s where the big costs come into play imo.
That setup looks great!