Broken bolt/lifter cover (1 Viewer)

[Highrlr]

I removed my lifter cover on my 2f to reseal it, and I have a broken 6mm bolt in the block. Curious what you all think, should I just forget about it and go about my day, or try and remove it? Welding a nut to it is probably not an option, right? I tried drilling it for an easy out, but the hole is off center more than I want it to be, it's really not penetrating the bolt at all, and then I broke the tiny drill bit.

This faster is at the front, closest to the water pump, on the very front of the block.

 

[fjc-man]

With a mig welder tack a nut to a flat washer, then tack the middle of the nut to the broken nub.

 

[Highrlr]

With a mig welder tack a nut to a flat washer, then tack the middle of the nut to the broken nub.

My worry was that I would weld the stud to the block.....not a concern? I've done this on exhaust manifold studs on AL heads, and it worked great!!

 

[charliemeyer007]

I guess it depends on your welding skills and equipment. If all you have is 1000A with 3/4" rod I'd worry about the bolt welding in too.

 

[rainingagain]

My worry was that I would weld the stud to the block.....not a concern? I've done this on exhaust manifold studs on AL heads, and it worked great!!

Use a washer with a hole smaller than the bolt diameter.

Also if you have a good center punch and a good set of hard steel bits, you could recenter that drill hole and get it out.

Whatever you do, patience will pay off.

 

[fjc-man]

The heat shock of mig weld is what will free it up.

 

[45Dougal]

If you've got the drill bit back out, you could try again with a left handed drill bit (sometimes with the friction heat they will suddenly spin out).
An End Mill might be a bit more forgiving if it's into the threads - again LH preferably.
You want to build up heat rather than rush to drill a hole, so even just using a snapped off drill bit shank, or length of 3mm bar with the drill in reverse might pop it out with a bit of perseverance. You'll need some weight on it for that.