BritKLR's mini project - Limb Risers and/or Brush cables (2 Viewers)

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Nice, but with the shape of the paint in that vintage of cruiser, Id be tempted to move tho front attachment points outwards to the vertical section of your ARB.

Cody- Good point.

One of the nice features of the split collars over direct welding/attaching a mounting point onto the ARB and/or RR is that they can be moved anywhere along the bar. The way they're currently set keeps the riser the highest off the body allowing for a certain amount of flex under load witout hitting the paint/body. The RR mounts can be moved to the front rail of the RR to increase the angle, but then the risers get in the way of opening the hood....so, right now everything is a 'SWAG" (Scientific Wild A#$ Guess) until they've been used a couple of times. They'll most likely get adjusted once I've run it in the woods a couple of times.

Thanks for the feedback.
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Cody- Good point.

One of the nice features of the split collars over direct welding/attaching a mounting point onto the ARB and/or RR is that they can be moved anywhere along the bar. The way they're currently set keeps the riser the highest off the body allowing for a certain amount of flex under load witout hitting the paint/body. The RR mounts can be moved to the front rail of the RR to increase the angle, but then the risers get in the way of opening the hood....so, right now everything is a 'SWAG" (Scientific Wild A#$ Guess) until they've been used a couple of times. They'll most likely get adjusted once I've run it in the woods a couple of times.

Thanks for the feedback.

:steer: How's the SWAG going on the limb risers?:meh:
 
:steer: How's the SWAG going on the limb risers?:meh:

So far so good.

But, due to my schedule I've only driven the 60 around town and have only noticed two issues.

1) The passenger side tube on the ARB Bumper has a slightly different shape to it at the bend so the split collar doesn't contact the tube 360 degrees and has resulted in the collar shifting a little due to the tension on turnbuckle. . This is an easy fix by moving the collar slightly towards the center.

2) The cables have stretched and therefore I've had to tighten the turnbuckles. No problem.

Good luck
 
Asutherland-

Good eye...The mini receivers are for the Camping Lab Awning. I simply welding them to some flat stock and bolted them to the roof rack mounting bolts. The awning slides into the receivers and held in place by hitch pins. I looked for some pictures of it unfolded, but I can't find one. Here's a couple of the awning mounted.

Good luck!
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I love when mods like this pop up right when I am thinking about doing them! Saved me a bunch of legwork. Thanks for posting this!

Do the collars have any sort of grip on the inside or is it just pure tension that holds them on? I'm just wondering if over time the cable tension would put enough force on the collars to cause them to rotate?
 
I love when mods like this pop up right when I am thinking about doing them! Saved me a bunch of legwork. Thanks for posting this!

Do the collars have any sort of grip on the inside or is it just pure tension that holds them on? I'm just wondering if over time the cable tension would put enough force on the collars to cause them to rotate?

SARCruiser-

Currently they're held in place by tension. The collars can be rotated to be more in-line with the cable and therefore reduce the likelihood of them moving, but I haven't needed to do that yet. Also, I originally put a small strip of rubber between the collar and the ARB to help increase the "bite", but didn't like the look of it so I removed it.

Good luck with your design!
 
Just got a Dissent front bumper with bull bar. This is my next quick project. Does anyone have lumb risers w/ a snorkel? Im guessing passenger side heavy branches will still require getting out of the car.
 
Cody- Good point.

One of the nice features of the split collars over direct welding/attaching a mounting point onto the ARB and/or RR is that they can be moved anywhere along the bar. The way they're currently set keeps the riser the highest off the body allowing for a certain amount of flex under load witout hitting the paint/body. The RR mounts can be moved to the front rail of the RR to increase the angle, but then the risers get in the way of opening the hood....so, right now everything is a 'SWAG" (Scientific Wild A#$ Guess) until they've been used a couple of times. They'll most likely get adjusted once I've run it in the woods a couple of times.

Thanks for the feedback.
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Nice setup. I had the front limb riser mounting point past the bend of the brush guard. This kept the wire away from the hood and fender. The wires would like act like a "plow" pushing branches aside.

I used turn buckles on both ends of the cable The wire stretches quite a bit , so with two buckles there is more adjustment rather than putting in a new cable. Those cables are constantly moving while on the road so they are stretching all the time.

My system lasted for 20 years needing wire replacement about every four years.
I found with all the driving I do , was to put a locking nut on the one of the threaded eyes of the turnbuckle and some blue Loctite on the reverse threaded eye. This all reduced the turnbuckle from vibrating loose from driving.

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I was just discussing limb risers and this is a pretty cool way to handle it.
 
I've had my eye on this thread for 2 years! I've had the parts for this build for a year! I finally got my bro to do the welding. I cut the eyes off of large lag Eye bolts and welded them to pipe clamps. Strong welds and we're off! The wire came from good old Amazon. They were pretty cut to length with eyes on each side. Turnbuckles are stainless, I sourced them from an online sailing website.
Overall this is a really easy project a few hours and $150ish and I'm ready for the trails!
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